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If you can’t find an ECU, ill order one for you via trade but you can also message “SunCoastCycleSports” as they have been wonderful Americans getting us rare 650 parts over to my workshop to fix customer bikes SCCS have a public website, i am sure they are a US dealer. But see what Startrights says, i won’t like a lot of people give up even thinking to mess withthe harness, so i will be watching this thread for sure 😉 As long as the sensors work, that’s good but yes the dash has a microchip that expects a Hyosung ECU to run it correctly.
spoken to Startright. They’re going to get back to me. In the meantime I’m going over the bike with a fine tooth comb….
Sure. I’ll sort one out and upload it, there might be something not quite right with it, so sharing would be ideal to check it. I’ll drop it on a new a post when I’m back in front of my laptop.
I’ll keep posting. I just hope that there is no damage due to the previous attempts to fix it.
The original issue was it stopped running, according to the garage report they looked at it and found the side stand wires had been cut and 4 wires (I found more) wrapped together. The reports says suspected ECU fault. I wonder if joining all the G/R wires (that’s sensors and side stand and starter relay) together had fried the ECU as on the diagram they are separated.
That was back in 2018! The guy I bought it off said they had had it running but only on 1 cylinder, and then someone else tried to fix the wiring. Not sure at what point the ECU was cut out.
I’ll just have to keep an eye on and spread the cost otherwise I’ll be nick naming her the Money Pit 😆
Using a board was how we made wiring harnesses from scratch in my previous job. Makes it a lot easier to work on and test.
I also then created a spreadsheet, listing all the ECU PIN numbers and then where they go and the wire colour, it makes it a bit quicker and easier than having to repeatedly check a wiring diagram. Just tape it to the board for reference.Cheers will do.
I’ve been checking all the loom and found the way the kick stand had been cut out didn’t look right so redid it. Anyway, all the sensors are getting power and seem ok with the exception that the TO sensor is showing around 5V which looks high compared to the manuals, however the fuel pump runs. Engine turns on the button.
Even if there was a chance the Suzuki ecus could work, they might be knackered as there was quite a bit wired up wrong and it wouldn’t have worked for the previous person anyway as the Suzuki Ecus require a power signal with a 100ohm resistance (which I’ve sorted) to stop hot wiring.
As it currently stands, no spark, cHe on dash (but no FI light), dealer mode doesn’t work.
First EFO bike I’ve had to play with so enjoying learning how to check it all.
Bit of a bonus…. Due to a previous job I have found access to the ECU connectors, even the Delphi ones, so as long as I can get an ecu (pref one from around 2008/2009, and the pins match one of the manuals, I’ll should be able to repair the loom to get it running.
I had to drop them an email whilst in work, not had a reply yet.
Thanks for the info…
“black dash with Green text”?? I’ve attached an image of the dash and also the bike (prior to me striping it).
If I look at the wiring diagrams in the 2 service manuals (EFI and FI) the blue connector going to the dash matches that of the EFI manual (in that it has the same colours and is 9 pin, whereas the FI shows different colours and 8 pins).
Might have to play the waiting game for more to get broken down or find another spares and repair to pull the bits from. I can wait it out, as I have other work to do on the bike all of which is little or no cost, just time.

Thanks again guys for your input. Im trying to track down some spares like another dash and maybe an s&t ecu like what’s in my bike but not too many wreckers around in Adelaide other than MR motorcycle wreckers. I plan on carefully removing the entire main harness and thoroughly checking for breaks and testing on the weekend. Can’t resume work until then as I work/stay in Adelaide during the week and only home on the weekends and live over an hour away! Its blatantly clear that this old girl has been screwed with by ham fisted previous owners but I’ll endeavour to solve what’s wrong. These bikes are pretty much a knock off sv650 and can’t be a bad thing! I’ll keep you posted 👍
Taking the harness out is quite easy with the exception of a couple of connections that are a pain as they are under the rear throttle body.
I’m currently working on a GT650R non runner due to someone chopping out the ECU and did the same to check the rest of the loom.
The wiring diagrams in the manuals are helpful for this, just pick the right one based upon the number of pins on the blue dash connector (8 or 9).
I pinned mine to a board and marked it out (the bundle of wire where the ECU should be is the mess I was given to sort!)

Thanks, I’ll have a chat to them to see what they have.
I’ve “re-done” the bodge that someone had attempted previously, using what I think is the correct service manual for the SV650 ECU I have, and “mapped” the pins to the correct location (sensors, coils etc).
So, it powers up (which is a start), cHE on dash as expected. Putting a wire across the dealer 2 pin doesn’t do anything (might have it wired wrong, assume its Black and Black with White Tracer, but not 100% where on the ECU I have). Engine turns on the button but no spark. But nothing blew up so I’m happy!! Lights work, inc neutral, etc on dash.
During the rewire I found the Loom code. not very clear but I think its 36610HR9701 GT-650R,

So managed to work a few more bits out. It’s defo an Injection model. There’s no label/code on the loom, but its the correct one for the bike, everything plugs in OK (except ECU issue).
The original ECU is missing, I have a receipt for garage work a previous owner paid for, it was having engine trouble and the garage had reported it was the ECU. So it’s been tackled by a bodger and rather than using a GT650R or other hyosung ECU its had the original cut off (YES CUT OFF!) and then the ECU, connectors and short bit of wire grafted on from a Suzuki DL650., however most of the wires weren’t connected and I think some were wrong anyway.
The DL650 ECU is a F8T51171.
I have pinned the loom to a board, and using the wiring diagram from the Comet GT650R manual (earlier one), I have mapped out all the connections. I have identified all the cut wires at the ECU end and put them in order into choco blocks (just to hold them) and then continuity tested to make sure they are all OK from the plug to the cut end (ECU)
So I’ll need an ECU, the connectors and a bit of the loom to regraft it on, or new connectors with the pins.
I was thinking about what if I get a slightly later Delphi unit and graft that on, obviously I can ensure the correct wires goto the correct pins due to them all being cut!!
Only thing I need to investigate is the side stand sensor has been removed along with its wiring. I think rather then just bridge the two wires (Green with Red Tracer and Black with White Tracer) they have soldered the Green with Red wire to the other Green with Red Tracer wires.

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