Chris
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I would check from the dash to the ecu.
there are manuals in this forum that have the diagrams, and I also uploaded a guide into the Tutorials section.from the dash there is a Green with Red tracer wire, which at the connector block changes to blue wire , this then goes to the ecu on pin H2.
make sure that’s all OK.
the other to check is the speed sensor, a 3 pin connector with wire of green, orange and Black with white tracer.
Good idea, I’ll check what hose I have around. Alternatively looks like Racing planet have them, works out £20 inc delivery.
I assume the pump stops if you flick the Stop switch? This would indicate that the switch is ok
CHE is the dash not getting a signal from the ecu. This will occur if you flick the stop switch but otherwise it should just show the speed.
If the stop switch is ok then check the speed sensor too.
Also, I would highly recommend checking over the loom, continuity testing each location. As the loom is used you don’t know its history or if it has any loose connections from being removed.
Based on that picture, i would say if it tried to say E41 , the code doesn’t exist , so C41 would be correct. Why the ECU keeps saying C41 despite a replacement good harness, will now suggest injector woes (you did say it runs rough, it won’t idle for too long). So the injectors may just be wanning, i’d still keep an eye on the fuel pump though , as the same error applies to it including any wiring to aforementioned parts. Also check your ISCV unit with the service manual to make sure it’s working properly as it does control idling when throttle is closed (idle speed control valve / ISCV)
Had the injectors out tonight, definitely dirty. I could get some cleaner but thinking perhaps a new set as that would then rule out any issues.
It’s runs, and will idle but does sound a bit lumpy and sometimes will die if just left ticking over for say 5mins.
not tried a test ride yet, just had her running on the drive on paddock stand.
the looms is a replacement and I have done a continuity test from each location, so I know power should get to the ecu.
I’ve tried swooping over the relays with each other and no change (can’t see it being an issue with them all).
unplugged the white plug that goes to the injectors and air box and I get all the other usual codes including the c41, then when i plug it back in the rest go just leaving c41
Plan to throw some engine treatment (wynns) in the tank too as the bike not ran proper since 2018.
One thing which is odd is when I have the white plug disconnected so it shows the other codes it has a clear c, but when 41 is shown on its own it has a line above it. As in the photo below.
New pump is on, still have the c41 error and atill runs rough so thinking it’s an injector issue.
I’m going to replace the pump and see how it goes.
When I do, should I expect it to run constant? I know some bikes the ecu switches the pump on and off and others it times out if the engine isn’t running.
Back to the fuel pump.
Dash has c41 error. I have checked:
- the relay and also swopped with others and all seem fine
- G/W wire from relay which goes to the ecu and that’s fine, connections are good and no short.
- BBR from the relay for the fuel pump circuit and injectors and that’s fine too.
- Injectors test as per manual and they seem fine, resistance was a little out but don’t know how much the temp affects it
The pump had previously seized, could this be causing the C41 error. The error appears with or without the pump attached. Power has been disconnected for a few days and error not cleared.
The fuel pump runs. But constantly, is this correct?
I think I’ll have to get a pump and see what happens. if that doesn’t work then I fear that when the pump stalled something must have affected the ecu.
Thank you for sharing! – Shall i edit to add “GT650 Loom ECU Pins Pinout” so its easier to search for it in future. Nice one again!
sure, whatever you think will help.
I’ve put some Wiring Tables in the DIY Guides section of the forum. Hope it helps.
I’ve just put another harness and ecu on mine (early EFI) … I would recommend checking the colours etc against the loom you take out before powering up. Also power up without the ECU on, as there’s plenty you can check without it on, save blowing it! I’ll be uploading some wiring tips in the near future.
Good stuff, Chris thanks mate. Don’t stress if it’s too hard bro. I don’t wanna put anyone out.I hope Julians ECU is ok, as they are expensive. A entire used wiring loom is about 89Pounds Sterling or AU$170.The ECU’s cost a lot more.I managed to get lucky and got an ecu and loom together for £250.
I’ll defo upload the wiring details, should be in the next week.
Julian: if you’ve not already done so you can check the power from the fuel pump relay to the circuit. It’s black with a brown tracer and goes to: fuel pump, injectors and ecu (it’s the only black with brown tracer on the ecu plugs). Check you can continuity at at all points.
Couldn’t find any issues with the loom, see what happens when I put it back on the bike, hopefully tomoz.
For the lambda, the connector on the loom was originally white, but as the one on the sensor was missing I replaced the white with the black shown.
couldn’t see anything on the sensor, unless it’s round the back of it.
i don’t have an error related to the sensor but just wanted to check it’s right
I presume the code has vanished now ? or take battery out for overnight then check in the morning to see if situation improves but i would 100% get a spare pump just so you don’t get stranded with that one and keep old one in shed for future spares, rare part on UK soil. Glad to hear it runs and in time for summer, now go over everything again with a fine tooth comb 😉 Whatever the service manual says = Do So 👍
Checked again this evening and the code is still there, battery was disconnected overnight. I’ll put the loom out and go through each connection.
Also I forgot, my O2 sensor had had the connector removed (which I have replaced), but do you know which wire from the sensor goes to which on the loom? My sensor has 2 white, 1 black and 1 grey, which I think are Heater (whites), Sensor (black) and Ground (Grey). But the wires on the loom are Orange w/Black Tracer, Black x2 and Green w/Red tracer.
I’ve just put another harness and ecu on mine (early EFI) , one thing I found was that the wiring to the dash, headlamp, speed sensor and indicators was slightly different on the new loom but not sure if either my original one or the new one had been messed with.
I had to take the pins out of the block connector and reorder. I would recommend checking the colours etc against the loom you take out before powering up.
Also power up without the ECU on as there’s plenty you can check without it on, save blowing it!
At the request of Laserbeam I’ll be uploading some wiring tips in the near future (once I’ve validated it).
I swear the factory just used what they had to hand and didn’t to a controlled year change for parts.
Code was still there, disconnected the battery and will see what happens tomorrow.
Going to go over each connection to check everything now I know it’s working and will also put in 2 fresh plugs etc
Turned out it had seized, but managed to unstick it by applying a vacuum to suck in the direct of flow. It was out of the tank and I had checked the wires inside.
Bike now runs! It’s rough and with c41 error on dash. Didn’t spot it before the pump issue though.
I now have a spark!! Got an ECU and Loom from a 2008 EFI model.
Now I have a fuel pump issue (see new post!)
Service manuals can be found here. https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/download-service-manuals-owners-books-for-hyosung-gv-gt650-carby-efi/
