Tom
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Hi John
The GV250 is the frame same etc size as the GV125. I am 6’4″ with a 34 inside leg and size 14 feet, I find my GV a lovely fit. I did play with the back brake pedal to make it a bit lower (put a longer adjuster bolt in).
Go for it, a GV250 is easy to work on and a joy to ride for the taller rider. At 950 Euros you will make money when you sell it on.
Thank you guys, do not worry she runs really well, is warmed up properly, has regular oil changes, lavished in ACF50 and isn’t thrashed. Just wanted to ensure that she would run well for good while longer as may be looking to sell her soon. I only like to sell on a good bike in good order, I want the new owner to have trouble free fun.
Quite glad I do not need to do the clearances as my attention is on an old ER5 that I got for peanuts. The ER5 had beed ridden until the clearances had tightened enough to mess up idle etc, the previous owner had looked for vacuum issues but did not think valves. She runs like a dream now, a noisy tatty old kwak 500 dream 😀
Bloomin hell, what a journey you are having.
Is it carb or EFi? Are you sure it was fuel not water that was the excess liquid?
For those reading this;
Hydro locking is where you have to much liquid in the cylinder. When the stroke of the piston goes to compress the fuel air mix the excess of liquid cannot be compressed by the piston. This means that something has to give. The result is usually a bent piston rod but it can shatter the cylinder walls/piston etc. This results is a seized engine due to the damaged internals.
The usual cause of hyro locking is water getting in the the cylinder chamber but can be caused by excess fuel etc.
If an engine is hydro locked, say from flooding, then removal of the spark plugs allows the excess liquid to flow out without damaging the engine internals.
Since the bike seems to be set up correctly, I would still suspect the oil. I was not familiar with the oil you used so looked it up at Eurocarparts and it is ACEA A3/B4 car oil (lots of additives for car engine longevity). The oil grade that is recommended by Marcel is JASO MA2 motorcycle oil, he has worked on many Hyosung twins and knows his stuff.
If an oil has additives to improve lubrication/cleanliness etc it can make the motorcycle’s wet clutch slip. Car oil often has these additives as the gearbox is usually seperate from the engine and they have a dry clutch. I have an austin Maxi auto and the gearbox has a wet clutch and shares the same oil as the engine (like a classic mini auto and most motorcycles). As such I have to use a classic low additive oil to ensure the clutch plates do not slip. It is the same principal for motorcycles as the engine and gearbox use the same oil with a wet clutch, you do not want an oil with additives that stick to the plates and allow the clutch to slip. It is always recommended to use motorcycle oil not car oil for this reason. There is lots on the internet about people using car oil and getting slipping clutches.
Halfords have a cheap JASO MA2 motorcycle specific oil, I would change it out and see if it improves. If it does improve it then change the oil again soon, try to think of the first oil change as an engine flush to get car oil additives out of engine. Dont forget the filter as that will hold lots of the car oil also, at the very least remove it and flush it out with the new motorcycle oil.
Here is a short article that explains it. https://itstillruns.com/reasons-motorcycle-clutch-slipping-8739449.html
Good luck and keep us posted.
I would say slippy clutch. Engine revs would climb without immediate speed increase, especially under high exceleration. How old is the oil/what oil have you used? Is clutch adjusted properly (where is biting point on clutch lever)?
https://powersportsguide.com/motorcycle-clutch-maintenance/ Here is loads on clutch adjustments and symptoms.
According to the service manual the compression service limit is 8kg (113psi), it should sit around 10-12kg (140-170psi). So you are at the service limit and it would indicate that things are a miss somewhere. Probably just valve clearance, if a valve stays open or does not open properly the compression is adversely affected and you get a rapid drop off in HP. Combine low compression with a slippy clutch, carb issues or exhaust leaking near the head then bike will be greatly under powered.
How old is the bike?
What mileage has it done?
Do you know its service history?
Service history is important because a bike set up properly with the correct oil etc will last and perform beautifully. If a bike has been run with low oil, wrong oil or even too much oil it can quickly damage the rings causing compression loss. Running a lean (hot) bike can also damage the piston and rings, I have seen pistons burned through from running lean. A discoloured exhaust is often a visual sign of a bike running too lean and hot.
If an owner just ignores dropping speeds and power loss it will mess things up badly, unfortunately the poorly cared for bike is often passed on to a new owner who has no idea a numpty did not care for it.
The first step I would take before assuming terrible things (you have not mentioned excessive exhaust smoke which would indicate rings) would be check the valve clearance. These are really tough little engines, but they need to be cared for.
Horse power depends on four things (presuming no sprocket changes etc).
1 Air
2 fuel
3 spark
4 compression
Thats the list, anything further than that would be internals and that would be evident.
Have you checked your compression? (Piston rings or valve clearance)
Oh thats not good, I do hope you were not hurt. Sounds like your OK as you are still riding her.
What damage did she sustain? What the happened?
When you have passed A2 what are you looking at purchasing? Staying cruiser? I am shopping around as Das in August and have been looking at Honda Shadow or VLX, but I would like a 250 GV as I love my 125 so much. Gv(C) has good riding position for tall riders, great looks and rides so well. I have to agree with Simon somehow these Hyosungs are heart stealers.
Good luck with it all Moustache Man.
Yes, I think you have found what you need. They are same engine.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Hi,
I would look at the other models Hyosung did in the 90’s early 2000’s. Strong likelyhood of the same engine.
I think the RX and GA may have same engine, you can compare online pictures of bikes to make sure.
This is the GA. Does engine look the same?
Here is a link to gasket set for GA.
I have found Mr Lee at HyosungSource reliable.
Good luck.
Sorry i made a mistake in my post, wont post late after a beer again.
You can ignore the engine cut off switch as you know it works from when you shorted the solenoid because the bike started and ran rich smelling. So checking that is pointless even if you are in the switch housing. Because she started this also means the clutch switch is probably ok.
Also, it is the start button and lights that often share a common 12v feed. That shared 12v input is split between the lightswitch and the starter button creating 2 different circuits (starter and lights) from one 12v fused input. The engine cut off switch, like the side stand and clutch switches, are part of a spark inhibitor circuit which means the engine will turn over but with no spark.
Eurocarparts have contact cleaner for £4.39 https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/holts-electrical-contact-cleaner-500ml-552996200
Another tip. When in pairs of wires, like to the solenoid, you have a positive(input) and a negative (output). Usually, not always, but usually the brighter colour is positive the darker is negative. This will apply to stereos, houses, cars etc. Look at your home 240v power cables. Blue is brighter than brown, blue is positive and brown is negative.
Thank you Marcel.
Cpt – post a pic of the connector block and I will post you a replacement with instructions of how to replace the original (no special tools required) or just that bad pin incase you need it. Message me an address or I can send via site admin if necessary.
That connector block sounds like the issue, or a least one of the culprits.
This is the how I would check starter circuit if my GV had no solenoid click and no starter turning over but all lights etc work. Sorry for length.
1 give starter soleniod a fair tap with a 22mm spanner sized object and see if it tuned over. No luck then number 2
2 check voltage is reaching solenoid at its connector. Set cut off switch set to run and with starter button pressed. (select on meter DC voltage ’20’ put red probe in brightest coloured wire and black pobe on exposed frame metal/bolt/engine/battery neg post). No luck number 3
At this point you could feed 12v directly from batt down a old bit of wire to the solenoid. Because you have two wires connecting to solenoid the second will go need to go to ground (somewhere on frame/ batt neg). Just a quick touch of 12v will tell you if it is all good with solenoid and starter turns. The black wire is usually the negative/ground, I say ‘usually’ as I have seen all black wires with no labels before.
3 Fuse, is there 12v? Does 12v pass through fuse? (same proceedure select DC voltage ’20’ probe connections with red probe and black to neg/ground). You should have power here, if not trace back, if you have 12v do step 4.
4 Starter switch and engine cut out, because I have all lights and neutral I am assuming ignition switch is good. Undo the two screws clamping switch holder to handlebars. The throttle cable will be restricting access to the lower part, the top part will lift up enough to clearly see inside.
I would test the engine cut out first as I have easy access.
In photo below (different bike switches and horn side not starter but they are all pretty much the same inside) you will see red arrows, these point to the contacts inside the switches, they are very exposed. When you operate the switch you will see the switch internals move inside connecting/disconnecting. You also see the wires soldered to each switch, which gives you the colours when you have no wiring diagram – note the wire colours to each switch. With continuity selected (see photo below) hold the multimeter probes on the soldered wire contacts on the switch (if there are three wires to a switch the middle is usually the feed in and the outside two the two switch outputs). Test switch on and off positions with your multimeter. The meter will read ‘1’ or ‘OL’ for open circuit (switch off) and ‘0.0’ for closed circuit (switch on) . If in doubt of what reading is what set multimeter to continuity look at screen and touch probes together, touching probes is a closed circuit (switch on). Some multimeters beep with closed circuit which is great if yours does.
Now turn on ignition and see if 12v is present and passes through the switch. Set multimeter to DC voltage ’20’ and put black probe on frame metal whilst then touching red probe to each soldered wire contact in turn. Check On and Off positions. Screen should read around 12v.
If that cut off switch is fine then the starter button.
Wiggle throttle cable off throttle grip and expose lower switch case. Note wire colours. Again same test proceedure, check continuity with starter button pressed and released. Then check 12v.
5 Diagnosis.
– If I have 12v at fuse, and 0v at the switches but the switches show continuity then the issue is after the fuse and before the handlebar switches (ignition area/ conns/ wires).
– If I have 12v at switches, on and off have continuity and 12v passes through both of them then the issue is after the switches in the loom connectors or wires leading to soleniod.
– If I have 12v at only one switch but both switches show good continuity the issue lies in the connecter or cables of the handlebar switches you are working on. The 12v often passes through the first switch, back to the connector block where a spare pin is used to link two wires feeding the 12v back to the second switch. If there is no pin often it is two wires twisted/crimped together inside the wires sleeve/wrapping.
– If 12v reaches switch but not passing through (no continuity) then spray contacts with cleaner and move switch through On and Off 20 or so times and test again. If necessary repeat a few times, if no joy get new switches.
This photo is of left side pitbike switches but it will show you what to expect inside. I also put a multimeter with meanings to symbols. Red arows show exposed switch contacts.
That is how I would trace it in the loom. To test a wire you select continuity and put a probe on each end looking for the closed circuit. If you cannot get closed circuit wire is bad and replace.
To test conns, stick probe in one side contacting with the chosen connector pin. Do the same with the second probe on the corresponding connector pin on the other side of the connector, again looking for closed circuit. No continuity means bad pins.
Since the wire colours where noted and I know the order of the switches etc so I therefore know the direction the 12v starter signal in travelling in the loom. It is easy to chase that colour wire through the loom and connectors checking continuity as you go. The loom is not big and solenoid and battery placed central to the bike with switches up front, there can only be so many connectors and wires involved. If you get lost halfway through loom test from solenoid back to switch.
When using the meter’s probes often a layer of oxidisation/tarnish/dry flux will stop connection. You may have to scratch and dig a little to get contact. If in doubt select continuity and put both probes on the same contact, only touch the contact with probes not the other probe. Look for open and closed circuit, closed means you are getting a good connection.
Sorry for length, hope this helps and is not complete confusing waffle.
I did reply but it disappeared when I edited a spelling mistake.
So sorry if this duplicates it if it appears.
cptpickle I am sorry to hear that, electrics are a daunting subject that is actually very straight foward. You can do it and I can show you how, I am a qualified electrical engineer. The wiring loom and connectors can look like a big nasty birds nest wrapped in tape, you do not have to unravel the birds nest just test accessible bits of it.
You just need a simple multimeter for a £5 and some contact cleaning spray again about a £5. It should cost you nothing more to get starting circuit working and the spray will most likely cure the indicator gremlin. As you have said already the bike’s bolts were decayed badly, that means she has stood outside alot so some of the exposed wiring connectors and switches will be dirty and perhaps have some corrosion – easily fixed with the spray.
You will measure resistance if you have to test if wires and see if the connections are good (resistance shown by an solid triangle pointing to a vertical line or the ohms setting shown by an Omega symbol on the multimeter). For voltage being present you want use D/C current (a straight line with a dotted line below – A/C is a wavey line). You would use A/C settings to test output from some stators before the rectifier – your stator works fine.
You have an earthed negative frame that is always the negative connected straight to the negative on the battery via a fat copper wire. This makes it easy using a multimeter as any exposed metal (engine case / frame bolts etc) is an earthing point(negative) for the multimeter. To track electrical faults is a methodical task but not difficult one.
I have a GV with all the same wiring, wire colours etc and can post pics on where and what to check. Also Marcel has seen almost every issue with Hyosung, he will help.
I will see if I can track down a wiring diagram for the GT/GTR, this will give us an easy guide to follow with wire colours and routes etc.
You have already overcome the largest problem and the starting circuit is just a minor wrinkle in the whole show. Most people would run away at the thought of an engine change – hellfire, you did it first time and it runs!
If you sell on now you will give somebody a bike that you fixed all but one or two very minor issues. They will quickly clean the connections and be quids in
You can do this – easily!
cptpickle I am sorry to hear that, electrics are a daunting subject that is actually very straight foward. You can do it and I can show you how, I am a qualified electrical engineer. The wiring loom and connectors can look like a big nasty birds nest wrapped in tape, you do not have to unravel the birds nest just test accessible bits of it.
You just need a simple multimeter for a £5 and some contact cleaning spray again about a £5. It should cost you nothing more to get starting circuit working and the spray will most likely cure the indicator gremlin. As you have said already the bike’s bolts were decayed badly, that means she has stood outside alot so some of the exposed wiring connectors and switches will be dirty and perhaps have some corrosion – easily fixed with the spray.
You will measure resistance if you have to test if wires and see if the connections are good (resistance shown by an solid triangle pointing to a vertical line or the ohms setting shown by an Omega symbol on the multimeter). For voltage being present you want use D/C current (a straight line with a dotted line below – A/C is a wavey line). You would use A/C settings to test output from some stators before the rectifier – your stator works fine.
You have an earthed negative frame that is always the negative connected straight to the negative on the battery via a fat copper wire. This makes it easy using a multimeter as any exposed metal (engine case / frame bolts etc) is an earthing point(negative) for the multimeter. To track electrical faults is a methodical task but not difficult one.
I have a GV with all the same wiring, wire colours etc and can post pics on where and what to check. Also Marcel has seen almost every issue with Hyosung, he always helps.
I will see if I can track down a wiring diagram for the GT/GTR, this will give us an easy guide to follow with wire colours and routes etc.
You have already overcome the largest problem and the starting circuit is just a minor wrinkle in the whole show. Most people would run away at the thought of an engine change – hellfire, you did it first time and it runs!
If you sell on now you will give somebody a bike that you fixed all but one or two very minor issues. They will quickly clean the connections and be quids in
You can do this – easily!
No problem, good luck. If you need any new connectors or connector pins just let me know. They are easy to replace you just crimp the new on.
My GV125c 2011, I also have Virago 125 1998.
I love her size as I am 6’4″ and she goes well (just gets 70mph on original sprockets with no headwind).
Bought after being badly stored for 7 years with low mileage and failing chrome. But with bad chrome being replaced, frame touched up and a lot of polishing she is coming on great.
The new screen (eBay £30) is the latest addition and I have no more bugs on my visor.
Last of the bad chrome means I am still looking for front indicator bar and chewing over the handlebar change – something like Triumph T100 bars would do nicely.
The only real problem so far was split manifolds but that is leading to an adventure and were fixed with the right glue.
This is the old girl out at Peranporth airfield today.
Thought I would put this up too, a composite of all GV models.
I would like to get my hands an the new 125s engine as that is a complete redesign with different V angle to the twin cylinders. I also like the new air pod position, just a shame about the rest of the design. You can see the lines taken from the GV250DR (so very tasty) launched in 2017 which only lasted 2 years production. Hyosung seem to of slimmed the range to a single choice, a bike designed for all purposes. I will miss the GTs and cruisers.
Had a thought whilst out mowing lawn. If you find a burned harness conn or the new starter relay is no good message me. I will send FOC as have spare knocking around.
Also do not be tempted to scrape/sand any connectors/contacts. They will work first off but will corrode very fast to soon become unuseable. Isopropyl alcohol can be used instead of contact cleaner to clean contacts etc.
