Carter
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If it’s only running one cylinder and you definately have spark you need to think about intake and compression so 1st thing to do is a compression test it will run on anything above around 60psi not well of course but it would run … If you have good compression you should move to the intake checking for any splits in the manifold make your the jest are clean and carb is set correctly … If you don’t have good compression 1st thing take rocker cover off. And flywheel inspection cap set to tdc and check the valve timing on the compression stroke after the intake valve closes can see timing specs on a free workshop manual for GT @manualslib.com or feel free to ask me for more info if the timing is ok check the head gasket for any damage / leaks and check the piston rings
I think they will sell out well it’s a let down to the bike with that massive silver yoke considering most GT are black frame ect … One with a red R to go with the badges would set it off I reckon
New tires…carbon fibre tank protector and tank cap protector ….. Please let me know if anywhere does a nice protector for the steering head (yoke) preferably carbon with a red R
then of course a performance exhaust can ,I have more air coming in I need to let it out so I went for the end can only as that is enough to make a difference for now as I will be fabricating custom stainless pipe 2x 1 1/2″ going into 1 X 2″
Then came the air intake bigger main jets and stainless bolts for the carb … Whild doing this I thoroughly cleaned the carb and lifted the needles to the bottom notch to compensate the change in airfuel ratio at low to mid throttleWhilst switching the bottom ends over I preplaced all the outer engine bolts for stainless steel
When I brought the bike it had a bottom end knock turned out the Conrod bearing had gone allowing the piston to to come down a little further and smashed rear piston my cheapest and best option was a 2nd hand bottom end with pistons for £60 I now have my mint condition bottom end with no crank that I will be reinforcing ready for when all the other mods are made and showing successful gains
the first thing I done when I had the bike was take off the the tail kit and cut the bar that it screws into I then welded a small plat across approximately 2 inch down from the plastics …. Free tail tidy😉So the issue you have here is you’re trying to get a worn out engine to run better/faster than standard in that case I would fully agree with Marcel valve tuning is the heartbeat of a 125cc engine it is the most crucial part of keeping your engine at its best therefore you should be doing your mods and gearing when you have your engine 100% otherwise no matter what you do you will never know how fast it should be or how much difference your mods have made
If your bike I’d doing that speed at a lower rpm that also means it will go faster at 11,000rpm I agree it may not be alot but you can’t expect alot from chain and sprockets in term of top speed because your engine is still the same power ect if you are expecting noticeable changes in speed you should think about losing any unnecessary weight from the bike and put performance ait intake and bigger jets in the carbs and maybe even an exhaust so you have alot better acceleration and then alter the gearing(sprockets) further towards top speed…. The chain is the money as that is the crucial thing that has to be strong enough to handle more power than that bike can put out they are often priced on strength as that is their purpose
I have purchased a fair bit from you lol intake jets ss bolt set clutch ect I basically know your shop like back of my hand ahaha and yes I have had 93 out of it so far and I have manager to get it to run with no dead spots when warm some how lol I have already rejetted carbs ect the exhaust I built will be a 2into1 the can I have is not a full size one but is a fairly decent can gives of a lovely sound and a massive step up from standard one lol.. however I do believe with porting polishing and just polishing the cylinder with a hone and my custom exhaust and play with the timing and gearing a little I do believe it will do 100mph+ I have managed to reliably get around 85 out of 125 singles and when I jumped on the R it just felt like a different level right from the off for a 125 it was like being on a restricted 600 I had 90 the day I got it although it I brought it knowing it had a bottom end knock turned out the Conrod bearing had gone and piston came down further and smashed the fins off the rear piston that extra bit of stroke was what got me 90mph standard which lead to rebuilding everything and saw the potential in that engine
That maybe my problem then I have the new type and I find the back end feels like I got nothing pinning the wheel down I feel every stone and bump and at doesn’t feel too stiff it feels like it sagged just sitting near enough on bottom out the 650 part are hard to find lol … And what’s your opinion on the Kawasaki idea ??
Been starting to notice this whilst the bike has been idling, and whilst waiting at traffic lights. I understand that these bikes do not have the “iconic” V-twin sound, but you can easily distinguish between a single and a twin. Whilst the bike is at low RPM, it sounds like it is only running on one cylinder. I don’t know what could cause this, blocked carbs? Sooty plugs? Low power from the battery? Is this a common fault? The second I pull away, it chugs and jerks a bit, then I can hear the second cylinder fire up and it runs smooth again. Another reason to add to my list of “love-hate” things about my bike haha. I don’t want a new relationship, I want a long-term marriage, with little commitment or effort required!! Would anyone know any easy ways to fix this? I’m no mechanical genius, but I have a decent knowledge and some handy tools.
first just start the bike up and don’t revs it let it warm up feel if both the cylinders are getting hot.. If only one your prediction is correct and is caused by either intake spark or compression so I’d start with compression test of all is good swap the plugs over if that cylinder still isn’t firing you should check intake manifold for cracks splits if that’s good clean your carb especially the pilot jet if it’s still not firing on idle your idle mixture is wrong on the carb going to that cylinder
hi, My son’s 2003 GT125 fuel tank has three connections under the tank. One is just a vent pipe. Of the two which are left which one is the reserve and main fuel line please?
the valve should have a big nipple and a small nipple the big nipple goes to the square valve which then goes the the carb (main line) the small one underneath then goes to the rear intake manifold( vacuum)
the third pipe separate from the valve is just overflow/breather
hi, My son’s 2003 GT125 fuel tank has three connections under the tank. One is just a vent pipe. Of the two which are left which one is the reserve and main fuel line please?
the valve should have a big nipple and a small nipple the big nipple goes to the square valve which then goes the the carb (main line) the small one underneath then goes to the rear intake manifold( vacuum)
Yep, similar issue with me. Its something to do with the clutch, been riding like that for years and nothing terrible has happened. It only occurs at low revs/idle, in neutral when the clutch is disengaged. The second you pull in the clutch, the noise goes away. I was told by a garage that it was just regular clutch rattle/noise, and it has not been a problem since (with failing MOTs/servicing). It hasn’t affected performance either.
this is a different noise and a different problem and is caused by either the clutch release bearing or faulty or unevenly tentioned clutch springs
This is a common problem in these engines I have have it a couple times it’s the condrod bearing has failed unfortunately it’s a one piece crankshaft so you would have to replace the whole crankshaft £220 or you could pick up a used bottom end for less than half the price lol however often if the noise gets quite loud the the extra play in the bearing could allow the piston to come down too far am may shatter crack at break the fin off the piston
