Reply To: NGK Laser Iridium Performance Spark Plug Code
Thanks Marcel, Appreciate the fair warning regarding fake spark plugs. I’ll ask at the local auto shop for these but to be honest they may be cheaper buying it through yourself. Additional query, changing to these laser versions is it required to change the spark plug covers too and regulator? Or is it just recommended? Just curious to know the benefits of just one component versus the whole kit. Thanks again,
In a nut shell:
- Copper – stock plug – Common and bike was made for it, but easier to foul up and it wanes sooner in terms of optimal sparking. it does not do well if the bike is very moody.
- Laser – Platinum plug (OEM to some Suzuki bikes as they shipped some older suzuki bikes with laser plugs) – Very good for winter (sparks sooner at the slightest fuel entry in to the cylinders, it handles heat a bit better as the plugs are buried deep inside the cylinder heads!, also VERY LONG lasting, I’ve not changed my own plugs for 2yrs! Hell I am that busy with everyone else , i try to keep my own toys as “low maintenance” as possible except for the odd valve clearance check, carb clean and oil service (air is K&N , so i don’t need to change filters every again but i just clean every 10-20,000 miles depending how dusty / messy the air is around us) Seaside air is more sandy! but i am digressing.Here is how to spot a fake from NGK’s own site:
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/Here is what they said in a nutshell , go where it says “Platinum Iridium – Types of spark plugs” below:
https://www.ngkntk.com/products/spark-plugs/NGK Caps = Consider them an absolute must have , not just for a marriage to the spark plug’s optimal spark but the “black OEM caps” crack a LOT! and sometimes sparks leak out of the HT cap and i saw it with my own eyes all to often now. Also NGK’s full rubber HT caps (not plastic ones!) are best, and they handle heat a lot better.
The coil itself should just be replaced if it is faulty, otherwise the stock coil Hyosung makes isn’t too bad honestly (better than the chinese clones) as its still made in Korea. Just give them a nice HT wire that’s like 7mm copper, if the factory HT wire is corroded.
Regulator = No one really keeps OEM regulators for good reason, fails too much. If someone has EFi Hyosung i always sell the Mosfet Japan ones, its too important (some ECU’s are just not easy to get hold of, if they get fried.) // A carby motor just blows its battery , stator , fries the harness or you see/smell burning at the side of your leg and you will feel the POP then you know its gone bad.
OEM values are 13.5v-15V carby motors // 14.5V constant for EFi (anything beyond 14.6v is asking for trouble)