Alan McLean
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Hi Harvey, thanks for the info. Unfortunately when I do a search on Google for b0dmjgcgs5 it doesn’t find anything or am I missing something!
As for the crash bars, I’m afraid I can’t be any help to you on that one as they were fitted to the bike when I bought it.
Thanks Marcel, very clear information.
I think I will try and source Motul 7100 10w50 or 60, temperatures here in the summer are between 30° to 40°c so need the best protection possible.
Hi Harvey, could you tell me where you purchased the rack or if you ordered it online could you give me the link. Thanks, Alan.
Great job by the way.👍
Hi Harvey, could you tell me where you purchased the rack or if you ordered it online could you give me the link.
Thanks, Alan.
Great article Darkvader, this is something I was considering doing on mine, I agre with you regarding the vacuum blanks that would be very handy if supplied in the kit as like you I was trying to source them but no joy. Does this conversion have any effect on the performance of the bike?
Alan.
Hi Alan, the starting jet is not removable, unfortunately. It’s the long brass bit that sticks up from body (see pics above). I wonder what would happen if I chopped it in half, got the needle out, and epoxy glued it back together!!! I do have a spark!
Hi Mike, I do it’s not removable, what I thinking was if you could get a piece of wire in the hole where the jet enters the venturi and push the broken piece back up the jet. I don’t think chopping it in half would be a good idea.🤔
Oh dear! Marcel, I am despondent! I am back to running on rear cylinder only. I felt sure the bike would run, even with the front carb starting jet blocked with a broken off needle tip (!!), but it seems it won’t. I have a spark, but only running rear pot. Can you find me a front carb body or suggest anything else I can try. I will send you pics of carbs via email. I have all the new jets already, so can fit them to a body. Hope you can help.
Hi Mike, have you tried pushing out the broken needle tip from the other end of the jet with a fine wire or something similar.Have you definitely got spark to the front cylinder! the reason I ask is I had a problem with the front cylinder not running but just checked the spark using the rear plug (easier access) turned out the live wire going to the front coil had come off, the spade connector was loose and had to pinch it with a pliers to make it stay on!-
Hi Alan, thanks. What are the Needle Sliders though? If they are the Needle Jets, I have new ones with the needles. Happy riding!
Hi Mike, this is the link to the tutorial https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-carb-slide-needle-tuning-hyosung/
- It’s an easy process which can be done with the cab’s in situ.
- I had a flat spot at around 4k rpm and this solved the issue.
Hi Mike, great to hear you got her running I know exactly how you feel after having to do it twice myself.
Also you will find a huge improvement in performance with the upgraded main jets, I would also advise doing the needle slider upgrade if you haven’t already done so.
SUCCESS!!! I cleaned carbs again and blew every hole I could get to with compressed air. So I have new needles and jets, new main jets (92.5 and 95), new float valves, new pilot jets and mix jets out 2.5 turns. Put all back together, fitted without air box, filled float bowls with fuel via a tube and funnel, checked fuel out from pump (slow dribble), set choke 3/4 and pressed starter. Immediate start! I can’t get the grin off my face!! Bike seems to rev OK but I’m not pushing it as haven’t changed the oil yet. All I need now is to get the air box back on! It’s time someone designed and made a new one that can be fitted after carbs. Come on engineers, someone make one! Thank you so much, Marcel, for all your help. I tried to load a sound file of engine running but it wouldn’t load. Boo-Hoo!
I had very similar symptoms with mine and after checking everything as suggested by Marcel it turned out to be the manifold O rings.
Hi All, has anyone else come across this problem, if the bike sits for about a week without being used the fuel petcock sticks. This has happened a few times and have had to remove the tank and dismantle the petcock, just wondering if there is a permanent solution to this problem!
Have you also unscrewed the bottom of the petcock (fuel tap) , to see if there is a lot of trap and do you use RON95 or E5 fuel ? Here in UK, we usually try to advise owners not to use E10 grade fuel due to the fact it messes up fuel systems for the bike and is corossive if stood for too long , due to bare metal inside the GV tanks.
Hi Marcel, I only use E5 (BP Premium) yes checked the trap each time and always clear. I was only away for 5 day’s and it has seized up, every time it happens I strip it down but there is never any sign of a problem, really can’t understand why it happens!!!
It sounds like as a precaution , it could be time to just change it out if that’s the only issue on the bike. Actually, its not uncommon either for vacuum taps for GTR bikes to crap up early on so you ain’t entirely alone in this Ideally you want the tap always shut when the engine is off , so there is no fuel in the cylinders overnight or hydrolock happens or soon seized piston rings as fuel has mixed with oil overtime. Have a deep sniff through your oil filler cap just to make sure, you know a strong fuel smell or oil looks watery and jet black.
Hi Marcel, I always turn the tap to off after riding, it just feels like it sticks, can I use some sort of grease or oil on it?
Hi All, has anyone else come across this problem, if the bike sits for about a week without being used the fuel petcock sticks. This has happened a few times and have had to remove the tank and dismantle the petcock, just wondering if there is a permanent solution to this problem!
Have you also unscrewed the bottom of the petcock (fuel tap) , to see if there is a lot of trap and do you use RON95 or E5 fuel ? Here in UK, we usually try to advise owners not to use E10 grade fuel due to the fact it messes up fuel systems for the bike and is corossive if stood for too long , due to bare metal inside the GV tanks.
Hi Marcel, I only use E5 (BP Premium) yes checked the trap each time and always clear. I was only away for 5 day’s and it has seized up, every time it happens I strip it down but there is never any sign of a problem, really can’t understand why it happens!!!
Looks really nice there, how cold is it now ? I assume its snowing bad but you live south and i am all the way up in UK , i haven’t seen snow yet lol.
No it’s not snow, just very white newly laid concrete path, it’s about 26 degrees c here in Spain 😎 so perfect weather for getting out on the bike.🏍️
Thats crazy money for a GV125 in that condition with so much work required and you have no idea what the engine is like or the electrics. My advice walk away and keep looking.As an example of what you could find this is my GV125 above 2010 with only 1,250 km in absolutely perfect condition and I paid €900 for her.
Hi Max, as Marcel say’s check the charging rate coming from the regulator rectifier, you can also use this method https://youtu.be/-Rqh1PXD5H4 another tell tale sign is to check the underside of the regulator they tend to blow diodes and this can be seen on the underside of the regulator.
I would also recommend changing both coils and plug cap’s as Marcel suggested.
Best of luck.😔
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