Reply To: GV650 FI 2002 – REGULATOR / RECTIFIER Instant overheat
Hey,
if you disconnect the RR itself, and do this:
– Rev the bike to 5,000 rpm maximum.
( I know the GV650 doesn’t have a Rev counter , so i assume you have a tach reader of some sort?)
(If not, try idle voltage + 1/4 throttle + 2/4 throttle) And Max throttle again (although hyosung does have a hard limit on their manuals for the AC output at 5K RPM mark, if it exceeds that , then further revs don’t matter as its replacement time)
– Connect the meter to 500V AC and probe any of the 2 pins of the 3phase yellow wires in any order and do it 3 times.
Eg. Pin 1 /Pin 2 = Voltage?
Pin 2 / Pin 3 = Voltage?
Pin 1 / Pin = Voltage?
Then let it cool down for least 12 hours outside in a shade (away from any sun heat radiation) , or overnight is best.
Get the meter out again switch to 10 OHMS (Ten) and probe those 3 pins again. And report what each combination says 3x
Resistance is the pretext to fry electronics (slow cooking) therefore the harness weakens. Hyosung has used thinner gauge wires on the EFi models compared to carb models. And also any oxidization of the pins , increases the resistance of the plugs connecting the stator to RR to harness.
Furthermore, is the stator OEM or aftermarket ? and I assume it is still using DAEWOO ECU? (We got Delphi in 2012 here in UK but also Daewoo units phased out by 2014) – It is the Daewoo Electronics that have plagued the 650 models and 250cc models but fortunately we can fix certain aspects of it.
Normally I put an extra red wire from the RR to the battery with a 10A fuse. I’d rather a 10A fuse blows up so i know it won’t cook the battery next and the RR is also still connected to the main harness which either uses a 20A relay box or 15A fuse or 20-30A fuses (Hyosung made variations of EFi harness over the years, so small things change)
Before I digress further, I will await the report of the stator information, it is best we start there. The RR can’t do anything until the stator feeds it.
i will assume you’re not using a Lithium battery (if so, I would advise against it due to the variable voltage nature of the Hyosung charging system which Hyosung manuals state it can tolerate up to 15V but 13.5V minimum DC to start charging the bike)
Keep in mind, if the fuel pump is OEM and suspicious or some aftermarket version, it may contribute to the additional charging system taxation which the RR will just get hot. Daewoo pumps are specific as they run different pressure ratings compared to later Delphi units. Daewoo pumps are Black with OEM numbers printed on it (the Aliexpress clones are black/blue intended to run the Delphi systems – Daewoo stopped making their pumps as they went out of business. So fi you find another used Daewoo pump , look after it.
I can’t remember if it is 3.5BAR or 3.0 bar but it is possible to manually check the pressure yourself.
Something else came to my mind but worth thinking about, in the context of the charging system, this “extra” resistance (aforementioned above^) does not necessarily mean the regulator will “cook” due to higher current; rather, it indicates a failure in the efficiency and thermal integrity of the stator itself. henceforward we must address the stator first. The general consensus amongst 70% of Hyo 650 owners who keep their bikes longer than 5 years (not the stupid 1 summer riders who switch bikes after abusing it with cheap china RR’s and fitting lithium batteries or crashing them because they are too throttle happy on the streets as their race track are ones you should not seek advice from) is to make sure the Stator is in good spec all the way through , connectors are not oxidized (common for brown burns to to happen there) and fit MOSFET RR’s but beware there is a LOT of fake mosfet RRs and even the fakes are now becoming almost hard to detect , real Shingdens (mosfet kings) are very expensive brand new. A used one from a local bike you can see running with your own eyes is better salvage but still costly. OEM RR’s have always let me down as Hyosung doesn’t make them , so its an outsourced product.
Also where i mentioned checking OHMS of the stator cold (about same temps you would check valve clearances) , this springs to mind , If one phase is example 3OHMS and others are different like 2OHMS (Pin 1+2 = 3Ohms , Pin2+3=2Ohms , Pin1+3=2Ohms), the RR must handle an unbalanced load. the OEM RR uses either SHUNT or older diode tech (depends what Hyosung gets as they have many variations of their RR’s being made, it’s hard to keep up) , which dumps excess current “somewhere” to regulate voltage. That kind of imbalance could cause uneven heating of the SCR, or diodes within the regulator, leading to premature failure as you said that as soon as you run the bike , it is not long before it’s “cooked?” . Just my random suspicions but please investigate and correct me if i am wrong as i am hoping we don’t have bigger issues on the bike and it could just be something small that was overlooked!