Forums 🚥 PiT STOP 🔧 Hyosung Technical Help Carb issues – GT125RC Reply To: Carb issues – GT125RC
Hey , glad you got the order!
In regards to the carb, jesus! – I am amazed. Honestly?
This is probably the strangest reply you will ever get from but needs must , as a brand new carb is about £600 retail (yes, it’s a japanese carb) & rare now due to EFI laws these days making carb makers switch to EFi , and most used carbs from untrusted ebay sources always have hidden problems , i literally have 6x carbs i have to rebuild for everyone else due to owners and garages messing around but i digress….
Follow me….
- Go to the “middle of the choke rod bar” outside the carb
- Unscrew the “HOOK” that is connecting the rear choke
- See if you can the “thinnest wall” spanner to undo the choke plunger out of the carb
—–
if it got out ? Good…moving on - Find a local screw shop or any garage , ask them to find a very very short stubby bolt that is the same thread size & pitch as your old choke plunger
- You will order “MANNOL THREAD TAPE”
- Apply a bit of thread tape on the actual bolt (to create a seal)
- Essentially the rear choke is forever cut off.
This will force you now to meticulously take care of the carb, inlet manifolds, inlet o-rings, cleaned out carb (and also, apply grease to exterior parts of the carb that move and are prone to rusting due to front tyre chucking water at them or road mess)
How to always start in winter without choke?
- Laser Plugs , Uprated coils, NGK Caps & Good regulator
- Engine clearances done (get proof of it, it will have figures of all 8 valves and their shim numbers) , every 4k is valve “check or adjust”
- Carb + Air + fuel parts all spot on.
- No mixtures on the carb messed with
- Always give the bike 7-10 mins (minimum) & max 15mins before you can ride off, this will keep your engine healthy
- Engine Compression in check (relies on the above statements i said) , ie. bad timings , valves or excessively overheating motor can burn a hole in the piston.
- Use Motul or Silkolene oil (must say ESTER on the bottle)
- Fuel = Always e5. No matter what
- Fuel Lines & Filter Clean.
- If bike is going to be stood for a while, trickle charge battery indoors and drain fuel. (e5 still has ethanol, it can rot things if not handled for ages , and winter moisture = water in the air, bad mixtures you don’t want in carb or tank)
I think i said a lot but ….
In regards to the choke plunger again, plan b would be to leave it disconnected inside the carb if you can’t get it out , it should essentially be its own bung, then for extra measure apply a tiny bit of metal based JB welded on that crack, and KNOW THAT IT CANT EVER MOVE AGAIN! 😬
In all cases, to preserve the carb, the front of the carb will be taken care of more than the rear as it essentially has one lung to to speak to cough her alive in dead of icy winters!
I will have a carb body listed soon on ebay in about a week or 2 (Just the shell, since owners can just re-use the guts of their old carbs)
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....