• Topics: 38
  • Replies: 674
Nov 30, 2017
North UK

Hey, first of all.

It’s 1,000 miles old? Has the bike still got warranty on it ? – They must fix it , if the bike still has warranty.   Especially after 600 miles, the bike is usually inspected fully.  (1st service of a new model)



This information below applies if the bike doesn’t  have warranty
& if not sure about this info,  you can email me or have a mechanic come & inspect the bike.


Does the bike crank at all?   (spinning?)
If not,   -> Fuse at rear seat (inspect)  or  Starter Motor Solenoid (do you hear clicks under seat?)

As for carbs & fueling.  – Have the carbs ever been opened since it was a new bike ?

A large filter does help keep the fuel much cleaner, so it’s less likely to gum up the carbs on the bike  (the starting “jets” are really tiny!)

If the carbs are fouled, they can be removed off the bike – (after the fuel is drained from it) – then  expose the  “bottom of the carbs” float bowls.  (8x screws)

A carb cleaner can be used to clean the jets if they get gummed up. (but a bit odd for a 1,000 mile to say the least!)


Electrical test =  Remove spark plug,   then connect it against the FRAME or ENGINE  (non – painted area!) –  Switch on bike , leave in Neutral.

See if  the spark plug sparks when cranking =   testing if coils are working.

Repeat process for the rear coil too.



Fuel system test (be warned)

There is a method where a carb can be disconnected from the “fuel pump” ,  then the HOSE PIPE from the pump is pointing to a bucket.

If the bike starts cranking = fuel must shoot out  =  Fuel system test.



Also inspect spark plugs too.   “A brown coffee colour ring = fueling ok”

Lastly,  if the bike is not in warranty – Inspect the side stand switch  (common fixes in the community involve bypassing it all together)

Gets funny on rainy days sometimes.

Last thing, check clutch switch.    It would be last thing preventing the bike from starting from dead cold.

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