Julian
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Finally I can upload a photo demonstrating what I meant at the beginning of the post. You can clearly see where the bottom coil had been rubbing on the swing arm. I’ve since resolved the issue by subtly grinding a flat spot in the bottom coil to give adequate clearance. Its only a tiny bit but its enough without compromising the integrity of anything. All is good now with all of the linkages etc cleaned, regreased and reinstalled.
Oh, I failed to mention that the dash is intermittently showing FI along with the red FI light. Its intermittent and not permanent. Goes away when the bike is shut off but starts again when moving. I believe its caused by the faulty speed sensor?
LaserBeam, thanks for the compliment mate. Your suggestion is exactly what I ended up doing in the end. I had the shock and linkages removed for cleaning and servicing. There’s quite a few bearings in those linkages that needed a clean and fresh grease. All looking pretty much good as new! I ended up just shaving a flat spot on the bottom coil where it had been rubbing on the swing arm. Just the bare minimum to give it clearance then applied some rustguard paint to seal up the bare metal. All is good now! I’d post up some pics if I could of course!
Still not working. Ive sorted the issue out on my bike anyway but as the project progresses it is handy to post up a pic or two to demonstrate.
Photo uploading still isn’t working. Im using my phone and always have since I joined. Its been fine up until now.
Ive got 16 photos uploaded in the upload photo ‘bank’. Its that at its limit? Can I delete them to make room for more?
Everything is factory stock. Nothing bent or broken. Having that first bolt and linkage romoved didn’t cause the issue. I just removed it to give sufficient clearance for the video. Ive since removed the entire linkage and shock for servicing and taken more pictures that show where the bottom coil has been rubbing on the swing arm. Its rubbed through the paint on both the coil and swing arm and has surfacerust there. Its always been that way with this bike. I can’t seem to upload the photos, the upload function isn’t working for me for some reason?
Nice work!!!!! Also i suppose a tutorial is needed for your fellow citizens to see how you bypassed the restrictions on the intake system , they will thank you for it haha. I bet you can’t wait to finish it and catch the sun now , (don’t rush though lol)
i might have to look into that Marcel! As far as I knew the lams bikes just had the throttle plate restrictor but have noticed the intake is crammed right in behind the head stem. Any light you could shine on that would be appreciated and I’ll look into it 👍
So ive been busy ticking off some boxes on my project gt650r. I’ve had the forks out and done a dump and run service on them as demonstrated by Dave Moss. Thanks Mossy! One fork had 320ml and the other had 350ml. Manual says they’re meant to have 400ml! The seals are ok and haven’t been leaking so more evidence of ham fistedness there. Ive put 15w oil in as it was cheaper than 10w at the time. Will have the adjusters set softer and dial them in better when the time comes. Speaking of adjusters, they all seem fine. The previous owner pushed one in but it was easy enough to push back up with the cap off. The adjusters prongs still align and engage with the inner rod inside the forks so all seems fine. They just don’t click anymore, Just spin which is fine as plenty of forks out there do that normally. As long as they work then I’m happy. I’ve had the triple clamps out, cleaned, inspected, re-greased the bearings and reinstalled. Ive removed the callipers to give them a good clean focusing on all components to remove old road grime and brake dust. Gave the seals, pistons and pad locating pins light lubrication. The front end is back in and torqued to factory specs. While I was at it, I removed the lams throttle plate restrictor too. It was easy. I put the front fairing cowl, screen, and mirrors back on too. Ive decided to leave the rest of the fairings off going for a look combining the look of gt650r and gt650s as i like the look of the engine exposed. Removed all unecessary brackets and clutter. All is coming together slowly!
Hi there laser beam, sorry once again mate for my lack appearances lately. I have been meaning to reply with a picture of my home made dealer tool.
As you can see in the picture, it
s pretty basic. Its just an on/off toggle switch with some wires, plug and heat shrink. A simple continuity test shows which is on and off on the switch. I wired in a matching plug in place of the factory one to suit the one used on my dealer tool.When I used it, I plugged it into the wiring harness on my bike with it switched OFF. I turned on the ignition and kill switch so that the fuel pump primed so that the then usual CHE would come up on the dash. I then turned the dealer tool to ON and then the c12 code came up on the dash!
I hope this helps! Cheers.
Thanks Marcel for the info. All just food for thought at the moment, but realistically speaking, a front end conversion is more of a curiosity than anything. Just curious to see what other guys have done with these things!? I’d likely just keep the stock hardware and just fix/service what I got, especially given that im on a very tight budget and just need it all to work so it can pass its roadworthy inspection eventually!
I’ll likely drop the forks out soon and inspect for anything that’s broken. Might even be able to source a decent 2nd hand right fork for cheap along with a master cylinder. We’ll see. I’ll keep you posted. 👍
Hey guys, long time no hear. Apologies for my absence. I’ve had a lot on my plate to deal with since my last post with the usual eb and flow of day to day life as well as having a family member’s health taking a rapid decline and suddenly passing away. It’s been a difficult few weeks as im sure you can all understand. Life has alot of unexpected things that come your way but we all have to deal with it when the time comes.
On a more positive note, I’ve spent some free time in my happy place working on my bike in the garage and I’ve finally got her running! After months of trial and error I’ve made a breakthrough and got my project bike in a state that I can work with. After replacing the broken headlight, replacing all relays, fuses etc I ran some tests and figured out that the dash, ecu and or wiring harness were faulty. So I sourced a replacement harness, ecu and dash from a wrecked bike of the same year and model that was in running condition but all I could get, once I fitted those parts, was the fuel pump priming, engine cranking but with CHE on the dash. I read through and studied the pdf service manual i got a while ago and came across a ‘dealer tool’ to diagnose fault codes. The price of them is silly expensive but I noticed that they look very simple in principle in the manual. They plug into the port near the fuse boxes in the tail of the bike and they’re simply an on/off switch. All they do as it turns out, is toggle between one of two modes in the ecu. Normal mode and diagnostic mode. So, I made my own using a switch, crimps, wire and heat shrink I had in the garage. I didn’t have a matching plug to suit the factory one so I wired in one I had. It worked! It triggered a code to display on the dash which was c12. The manual says its the pick up coil fault. It prompted me to focus on the stator, magneto, pick up coil and reg/rectifier which all tie in together. The stator and reg/rectifier were near new and clearly not the original factory ones. I noticed that they were plugged in so that they were completely isolated from the rest of the bike. There was no way that they were connected to the wiring harness. I corrected it by plugging the pick up coil plug into the matching plug on the wiring harness based on the matching wire colours and hey presto, she finally fired up! The dickhead previous owner who fitted the parts didn’t connect it up properly! 🤦♂️
It’s so good to finally hear her run and she’s got quite a nice rumble to her even with the stock exhaust. She’s the first v-twin I’ve ever had and im growing fond of her! Ive since serviced her with fresh fuel, oil, filter, plugs and coolant. Ive rearranged and tidied up the messy wiring and put her tail and seats back on. She’s got a long way to go but we’re on the right track finally! Its abundantly clear the poor old thing has been screwed with by previous owners but I endeavour to get her back to her former self and have a blast on her eventually.
I’d like to thank Marcel and Chris for their inputs and advice. It may not of yielded the results that I was after but the fact that you guys took the time to reach out and help is greatly appreciated. No one was to know that it all more or less boiled down to a silly error!
I’ll finish up on this post as its now no longer relevant. I’ll likely start another one soon as I move on to different stages in my project. Next stage will be brakes, suspension and headstem servicing me thinks. Cheers.
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I assume the pump stops if you flick the Stop switch? This would indicate that the switch is ok CHE is the dash not getting a signal from the ecu. This will occur if you flick the stop switch but otherwise it should just show the speed. If the stop switch is ok then check the speed sensor too. Also, I would highly recommend checking over the loom, continuity testing each location. As the loom is used you don’t know its history or if it has any loose connections from being removed.
yes the fuel pump primes for a few seconds then stops on its own with the kill switch turned on. The display shows CHE both when the kill switch is on and off. Fuel pump primes now every time the switch is on.
What key components do I need to be focusing on here now? I can do continuity tests and all that until the cows come home but I need specifics as I believe its ignition related now.
Hi guys, sorry I’ve been quite for the last few weeks. I’ve had alot to deal with in my personal life and have been preoccupied.
On a positive note, ive replaced the main wiring harness, ecu and dash on my bike. Ive managed to source all 3 from an exact same bike as mine, year model and all! The improvements so far its made is that the new dash now works properly and reads nice and clear. The fuel pump is finally priming up but it still won’t start. Dash says CHE. Im thinking it’s ignition related now. Any ideas guys?
Hi guys, thanks again for your input. Just to elaborate a little on the bikes current status. So, the bike isn’t any different in the end other than having a dash that powers up with funny display readings!
With the ignition key turned on and kill switch turned on, the headlight comes on as before. High and low beam work fine and indicators work fine. The dash now comes on but no fuel pump as before and no CHE on dash. Dash just shows as pictured in previous post both with ecu unplugged and plugged in! Pull clutch in, hit starter and motor cranks as before. Ive done all this over and over again with the bike on a paddock stand, with the side stand down, up and switch bypassed. ive also tried all this both with factory relays plugged in and with all new ones plugged in. NOTHING HAS CHANGED!!!
I’m really suspicious of the ecu. Not having any luck finding a 2nd hand s&t/daewoo ecu like the current one and I’ll be f$£#@d if im spending 1200 bucks on a new one! so I’m taking a gamble and ive bought a delphi ecu and complete wiring harness from a wrecker. Both are from the same bike, a 2012 gt650 naked. The same bike that the dash came from as a matter of fact.
Ive decided to do this as every google/ebay/gumtree search ive made looking for parts seems to come up with 2nd hand delphi ecu’s predominantly and haven’t once come across a s&t/daewoo ecu other than brand new ones and others suitable only for gt250, gt250r and gv250’s.
Ive also dropped my original, unresponsive dash into a place called ‘guage works’ to get fixed. They specialise in automotive and motorcycle dashboard repairs so hopefully they can work their magic and I can have a dash that finally works properly and doesn’t read 729429kms!
I’ll keep you guys posted. Thanks again for taking your time to give me some insight and advice.
Hi guys, sorry for the inactivity of late. Been flat out and haven’t had much time to myself. Ive since got the other dash, it powers up finally but its had a rough life. Zeros show on lcd screen as sevens! Its kinda funny but at least it goes to show that the original dash was broken somewhat. Put airbox and tank back on and plugged everything back in etc. Still no fuel pump priming up and no start. Ive taken the tank back off, put 12v to the pump and it works fine. Was squirting fuel and now I know what it sounds like. There’s no CHE or anything on the dash. Interestingly even with ecu un plugged, it doesn’t change the display. Im thinking that the ecu is screwed?im really beginning to loose faith in this thing.
Thanks again Marcel for your input. The dash looked squeaky clean inside when I disassembled it with no obvious signs of damage or burns. But like I said before, perhaps there’s something broken that i can’t see with the naked eye? I’ve since bought another dash and it’s on its way, hopefully get it by the weekend. It looks rough but as long as it works thats the main thing. Ive also got a new set of relays coming too just so I can rule it out. My main priority is to get a dash to powers up. If it has CHE on it or whatever then I can go from there at least but I need to see a dash.
Okay guys, these are some voltage readings exactly as they appeared on my multimeter on the dash plug with ignition on and with plug open ended (not plugged into dash)
Orange 12.14
Red 12.14
Blue/yellow tracer -0.13 (yes, minus)
Light Green 0.00
Yellow 0.12
Black 0.01
Black/white tracer 0.06
Yellow/black tracer 0.00
White/blue tracer 0.12
Dark green 0.07
Green/red tracer 0.12
Brown 0.12
What are your thoughts?
So ive been back at it with my bike doing continuity and voltage tests and everything seems okay as far as I can tell but still the same issue with the dash. Im fairly certain that the dash is buggered!? The original headlight was smashed so im beginning to think that whatever impacted the headlight was enough to disrupt something internally on the dash as the dash mounts directly to the headlight after all. I have already carefully disassembled the dash to inspect it for damage. Nothing looks amiss or broken but perhaps there’s only so much I can see with the naked eye? Currently trying to track down another dash, ive made a couple of enquiries but waiting to hear back.
On another note, there are a couple of other bikes on the local classifieds going cheap. One of them is a 2010 gt650 comet/naked in running condition. Are the parts on that bike interchangeable with my gt650r? Pretty sure they are but just want to be sure!
Thanks again guys for your input. Im trying to track down some spares like another dash and maybe an s&t ecu like what’s in my bike but not too many wreckers around in Adelaide other than MR motorcycle wreckers. I plan on carefully removing the entire main harness and thoroughly checking for breaks and testing on the weekend. Can’t resume work until then as I work/stay in Adelaide during the week and only home on the weekends and live over an hour away! Its blatantly clear that this old girl has been screwed with by ham fisted previous owners but I’ll endeavour to solve what’s wrong. These bikes are pretty much a knock off sv650 and can’t be a bad thing! I’ll keep you posted 👍
Taking the harness out is quite easy with the exception of a couple of connections that are a pain as they are under the rear throttle body. I’m currently working on a GT650R non runner due to someone chopping out the ECU and did the same to check the rest of the loom. The wiring diagrams in the manuals are helpful for this, just pick the right one based upon the number of pins on the blue dash connector (8 or 9). I pinned mine to a board and marked it out (the bundle of wire where the ECU should be is the mess I was given to sort!)
that’s a great Idea there mate! 👍im thinking of doing something very similar for the sake of figuring out the cause of my bikes problems. Just have to be thorough and patient!
