iyGT3k
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Got some nice bits over the past few months but I think she’s struggling bless her.
Also just to touch on the clocks I’m using, I’m using mk1 bandit clocks which use the analogue speed cable I haven’t had to worry about anything in terms of wiring.
Both wheels are 17″ and run 110/70 tyre (600 only, 1200 uses 120) so the gearing should be the same and register the same speed I’ve tested this a little with rev matching in top gear and it seems to be correct – I’m using the hyo tacho.
The only issues I ran into was the little rubber gromets for the bulbs were a little smaller on the high beam and neutral cluster but other than that the bulbs are similar if not the same, one’s too big for the speedo housing but I just used the fuel level one for now until I can be bothered to switch it over.
The only thing I can think of is it’s a signal wire when it’s running low but other than that idk, the tank could of come off a digital dash bike but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t when I looked at the pictures.
I’ve looked up the part number and this tank was definitely NOT off an EFI bike (there’s no internal pump), I wonder if the float was changed though now for an EFI one before it went to the breakers
Found one on ebay that looked like it has 3 but I think it’s 2, I have found another that looks similar for a GA but iirc the bottom of the sender was round and not oval…
Weird, definitely looks factory I didn’t wanna take it out with it being old and mess up the seal.
Found one where they look the same Part number: 34810HN9101
Weird, I went out and checked it all and here as far as I am aware this tank definitely came off a Hyosung GT250 and it looks like a Hyosung float.
The connector is coming down from the tank, I naturally cut this off and connected the yellow and black as the 125 had yellow and black – They are definitely the same type of connector it’s just one has an extra pin.
Looks factory, the second picture is my old tank that only has 2 wires from the sender? but the 250 tank definitely has 3 π
Apologies I got the colours wrong, I have connected exactly the same as the other tank it was a bit ago now I’ve had a few dinners since then.
Apologies I think I was on about something else in terms of torque, I think Ft LBS is a British thing I think in Europe they exclusively only use metric.
The MASKO one on amazon would do, if you had the extra go for the Famex or Vanpo one….If you’re feeling flush and like a nice tools get the Wera 40 – 200 (bit overkill, looks gorgeous though).
Let that link through please M, he shows you everything from start to finish at a really good angle.
I did my own seals about 5 years ago when I last intended to get it back on the road, it went well theres one video of a lad in India doing a set of GT250 after getting them painted – I’ll try find it.
I bought a rebuild kit which included the oil, check ebay to see what they pair it with I also used a school measuring beaker that I’d managed to grab for cheap on there to make sure it was an accurate read.
Use 6 point sockets on the top, loosen those first (DON’T FORGET) It’s an easy job if you have a spare day you need to get the driver tool too.
I had one suspiciously leaky leg after buying a set of USD’s on ebay and it turned out there was some blue rag caught in the seal that he must of used to clean the chrome the absolute melt.
I would pay someone to do,Β even after knowing I can now do it haha.
Hello! Iβd stay away from ECU flashes and such, doing things like that tend to come with their own problems sadly if it aint broke donβt try fix it ;). The chain is a must, you wouldnβt go back I had to washer up my left hanger bracket but I doubt youβll have this problem on a GV. Just out of interest what tyres are on it? If itβs the Shinkos (I doubt it being that old) please get rid! Might be worth looking for a front fender extender too if they do one for yours :).
Oh okay, yeah an ecu flash seems super risky indeed, I was only thinking about it cause a friend of mine recently flashed their Honda Monkey 125 with pretty cool results (noticably faster accelleration and higher top speed). But I think with the chain, clutch, and possibly spark plug upgrades Iβll be fine until I graduate to a larger displacement. I bought my gv125s secondhand but Iβm pretty sure itβs still the stock tyres on there. Iβll take a picture tomorrow and post it here so people can check.
Is something happening with your clutch? does it need it?
Spark plug upgrades and stuff would be wicked for you! I would genuinely not bother installing a new clutch unless it’s properly fully gone it isn’t worth the time paying someone to do it unless you need to.
How many miles are on your speedo? has it done much?
How come I can’t post in the pic forums? I have no images enabled and it errors with:
- Error: forum ID is missing.
Hello!
I’d stay away from ECU flashes and such, doing things like that tend to come with their own problems sadly if it aint broke don’t try fix it ;).
The chain is a must, you wouldn’t go back I had to washer up my left hanger bracket but I doubt you’ll have this problem on a GV.
Just out of interest what tyres are on it? If it’s the Shinkos (I doubt it being that old) please get rid! Might be worth looking for a front fender extender too if they do one for yours :).
Hallo o/
Stay away from those small cyclist ones, if you have amazon try grab it off that anything low to mid range would do.
The wheel alone needs to be 115nm iirc, I have an ebike here that calls for 50nm on something I can’t do up under torque and that is SERIOUSLY tight so 115 is being absolutely locked in.
Try find one with a 1/2″ drive they tend to offer more torque usually well within to 200nm and up, 1/4th tend to be way lower (usually bicycle ones).
A friend would say it wouldn’t need to be under torque but it definitely does and needs to be as accurate as possible – Try your absolute best to never drop it or plonk it down on a hard surface.
Has it ever switch off mid ride or always when it goes into gear? I use to lose everything and it was one thing inparticular.
Could you send us a picture of your top yoke including dash?
Theres a small chance it could be his switch I think? Took mine to a local place once when I had resorted in bump starting and it turned out to be the spring in the starter button, iirc he bridged the solenoid to test (behind your rear right panel I believe).
I have had to redo all the like switch assembly’s recently, pen springs work great (you can only get 2 out of 1 spring really).
Worth a check before going diving into much else really.
Found the one you were on about, got it and ill just blank off the reserve, I thought you meant that absolutely shagged one haha!
Nah mate, thankfully I had lots of spares so I got it back on the road pretty sharpish – I have the inlets coming from the CHINA hopefully they’ll be reet.
I honestly don’t think it’s worth buying that tap… I’ve had it watched for a bit and it just looks as bad as my old one tbh.
With this being a 250 tank it has no reserve anyway (caught me out!) I did have another issue where the filler cap just wasn’t a nice fit (but it was the original, I think the bike it came off was an 05) I’ll get round to lining the tank at some point….I have an old one on there and it seems to run just a little bit better (found another fuel leak today that’s all sorted).
I’m not quite sure what’s going on with my old tank, I believe there’s a vacuum pipe going to the pump so I don’t think that’s my issue but my rubber inlets are really really bad so I guess it’s that and the seals.
Just to note: I think the tank it had on before was from an 03, the colour was way off and it’s not down to fading (it’s the lighter blue hyosung did not the dark that the rest of my bike is) and it has the classic numbers written in yellow under the bottom so I think at some point it came from a breaker before I got it.
If anyone is in need of anything please hmu, I may have what you need π
Hyosung Paul – If you ever see this please for the love of god make me a pair, I’ll pay whatever it costs (well, within reason haha).
