iyGT3k
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Apologies I think I was on about something else in terms of torque, I think Ft LBS is a British thing I think in Europe they exclusively only use metric.
The MASKO one on amazon would do, if you had the extra go for the Famex or Vanpo one….If you’re feeling flush and like a nice tools get the Wera 40 – 200 (bit overkill, looks gorgeous though).
Let that link through please M, he shows you everything from start to finish at a really good angle.
I did my own seals about 5 years ago when I last intended to get it back on the road, it went well theres one video of a lad in India doing a set of GT250 after getting them painted – I’ll try find it.
I bought a rebuild kit which included the oil, check ebay to see what they pair it with I also used a school measuring beaker that I’d managed to grab for cheap on there to make sure it was an accurate read.
Use 6 point sockets on the top, loosen those first (DON’T FORGET) It’s an easy job if you have a spare day you need to get the driver tool too.
I had one suspiciously leaky leg after buying a set of USD’s on ebay and it turned out there was some blue rag caught in the seal that he must of used to clean the chrome the absolute melt.
I would pay someone to do, even after knowing I can now do it haha.
Hello! I’d stay away from ECU flashes and such, doing things like that tend to come with their own problems sadly if it aint broke don’t try fix it ;). The chain is a must, you wouldn’t go back I had to washer up my left hanger bracket but I doubt you’ll have this problem on a GV. Just out of interest what tyres are on it? If it’s the Shinkos (I doubt it being that old) please get rid! Might be worth looking for a front fender extender too if they do one for yours :).
Oh okay, yeah an ecu flash seems super risky indeed, I was only thinking about it cause a friend of mine recently flashed their Honda Monkey 125 with pretty cool results (noticably faster accelleration and higher top speed). But I think with the chain, clutch, and possibly spark plug upgrades I’ll be fine until I graduate to a larger displacement. I bought my gv125s secondhand but I’m pretty sure it’s still the stock tyres on there. I’ll take a picture tomorrow and post it here so people can check.
Is something happening with your clutch? does it need it?
Spark plug upgrades and stuff would be wicked for you! I would genuinely not bother installing a new clutch unless it’s properly fully gone it isn’t worth the time paying someone to do it unless you need to.
How many miles are on your speedo? has it done much?
How come I can’t post in the pic forums? I have no images enabled and it errors with:
- Error: forum ID is missing.
Hello!
I’d stay away from ECU flashes and such, doing things like that tend to come with their own problems sadly if it aint broke don’t try fix it ;).
The chain is a must, you wouldn’t go back I had to washer up my left hanger bracket but I doubt you’ll have this problem on a GV.
Just out of interest what tyres are on it? If it’s the Shinkos (I doubt it being that old) please get rid! Might be worth looking for a front fender extender too if they do one for yours :).
Hallo o/
Stay away from those small cyclist ones, if you have amazon try grab it off that anything low to mid range would do.
The wheel alone needs to be 115nm iirc, I have an ebike here that calls for 50nm on something I can’t do up under torque and that is SERIOUSLY tight so 115 is being absolutely locked in.
Try find one with a 1/2″ drive they tend to offer more torque usually well within to 200nm and up, 1/4th tend to be way lower (usually bicycle ones).
A friend would say it wouldn’t need to be under torque but it definitely does and needs to be as accurate as possible – Try your absolute best to never drop it or plonk it down on a hard surface.
Has it ever switch off mid ride or always when it goes into gear? I use to lose everything and it was one thing inparticular.
Could you send us a picture of your top yoke including dash?
Theres a small chance it could be his switch I think? Took mine to a local place once when I had resorted in bump starting and it turned out to be the spring in the starter button, iirc he bridged the solenoid to test (behind your rear right panel I believe).
I have had to redo all the like switch assembly’s recently, pen springs work great (you can only get 2 out of 1 spring really).
Worth a check before going diving into much else really.
Found the one you were on about, got it and ill just blank off the reserve, I thought you meant that absolutely shagged one haha!
Nah mate, thankfully I had lots of spares so I got it back on the road pretty sharpish – I have the inlets coming from the CHINA hopefully they’ll be reet.
I honestly don’t think it’s worth buying that tap… I’ve had it watched for a bit and it just looks as bad as my old one tbh.
With this being a 250 tank it has no reserve anyway (caught me out!) I did have another issue where the filler cap just wasn’t a nice fit (but it was the original, I think the bike it came off was an 05) I’ll get round to lining the tank at some point….I have an old one on there and it seems to run just a little bit better (found another fuel leak today that’s all sorted).
I’m not quite sure what’s going on with my old tank, I believe there’s a vacuum pipe going to the pump so I don’t think that’s my issue but my rubber inlets are really really bad so I guess it’s that and the seals.
Just to note: I think the tank it had on before was from an 03, the colour was way off and it’s not down to fading (it’s the lighter blue hyosung did not the dark that the rest of my bike is) and it has the classic numbers written in yellow under the bottom so I think at some point it came from a breaker before I got it.
If anyone is in need of anything please hmu, I may have what you need 😉
Hyosung Paul – If you ever see this please for the love of god make me a pair, I’ll pay whatever it costs (well, within reason haha).
Would be cool if any of you ukhyo lads are around still but I doubt it 🙁 hmu if you are.
Also Paul if you are around here and you use the garage at Odsal PLEASE MESSAGE ME! Name your price.
Vacuum should not be blanked , the tap will need it and the fuel pump is actually needed too. The 125cc uses a DF52 Mikuni Pump that was made for the Hyosung family , so the GV650 actually uses the same pump, it has a flow rate of about 80ltrs per hour, no way the 125cc will maximize the fuel pump , infact it is needed to help it sustain speeds at the top gear as it works on vacuum pulses from the inlets. Check your inlet O-RINGS , usually we check the O-Rings under the inlets before replacing anything else. China inlets = Chinesium , it won’t beat the OEM quality but it will get you on the road asap until we find the super rare originals! Check your oil filler cap, sniff inside hard, if you smell fuel , it sounds like fuel tap is “wide open” after engine is switched off , would suggest future problems with piston rings or hydrolocking too – The tap may have a burst diaphragm Just some of my thoughts , hope any of what i said made sense to you ? Regards
As mentioned the way it’s set up IF I removed the blank from the vacuum pipe the fuel would not exit to the fuel line as there’s nowhere to plug the pipe into on my bike lol, the “vacuum tap” is forced open to a universal tap to turn off/on which is why I asked if any of you knew where it connects to from the tank.
^Just to further touch on this, mine <does not have the vacuum to the tank as default, it wasn’t there to begin with as it had the manual tap mounted to the frame….. Obviously I know this is not ideal however how it’s set up now is as close to the original tank as I could get it in the moment (and really overall? without knowing where the vacuum pipe connects to). It being blanked off isn’t an issue since I control on/off with a universal tap so the vacuum right now is not needed at all. It’s set up as it should/can be right now when comparing it to the original tank).
Yeah the originals are as rare as the petcock I can’t find thus I have no option (all of us are in the same boat ey 😯 ).
The fuel tap is DEFINATLEY NOT wide open, my bike is surging when idling to around 3 to 4k and no adjustment on the idle screw will fix this, it does sometimes temporarily however it starts again on my next stop more often than not (I’m pretty sure it’s a vacuum leak).
I know the fuel tap is definitely off when I switch it off, I sometimes would forget the tap previously and the fuel would sit on one or both pistons and hyrodlock and I havent experienced this with my current set up at all. I’ve persisted through fuel leaks to get to this point at the tap however I have fixed this by ordering a bigger tap as the fittings on the ones I ordered clearly weren’t the mm they said they were.
I’ve owned this bike since 2012 I’m not new to any of this hah, are baz and sim not around anymore? Are you still in touch with James (BD – cillit banged an engine if you remember)?
Anyway yeah it does make sense but I think you may have skimmed over what I originally put.
Vacuum should not be blanked , the tap will need it and the fuel pump is actually needed too. The 125cc uses a DF52 Mikuni Pump that was made for the Hyosung family , so the GV650 actually uses the same pump, it has a flow rate of about 80ltrs per hour, no way the 125cc will maximize the fuel pump , infact it is needed to help it sustain speeds at the top gear as it works on vacuum pulses from the inlets. Check your inlet O-RINGS , usually we check the O-Rings under the inlets before replacing anything else. China inlets = Chinesium , it won’t beat the OEM quality but it will get you on the road asap until we find the super rare originals! Check your oil filler cap, sniff inside hard, if you smell fuel , it sounds like fuel tap is “wide open” after engine is switched off , would suggest future problems with piston rings or hydrolocking too – The tap may have a burst diaphragm Just some of my thoughts , hope any of what i said made sense to you ? Regards
As mentioned the way it’s set up IF I removed the blank from the vacuum pipe the fuel would not exit to the fuel line as there’s nowhere to plug the pipe into on my bike lol, the “vacuum tap” is forced open to a universal tap to turn off/on which is why I asked if any of you knew where it connects to from the tank.
^Just to further touch on this, mine does not have the vacuum to the tank as default, it wasn’t there to begin with as it had the manual tap mounted to the frame….. Obviously I know this is not ideal however how it’s set up now is as close to the original tank as I could get it in the moment (and really overall? without knowing where the vacuum pipe connects to). It being blanked off isn’t an issue since I control on/off with a universal tap so the vacuum right now is not needed at all. It’s set up as it should/can be right now when comparing it to the original tank).
Yeah the originals are as rare as the petcock I can’t find thus I have no option (all of us are in the same boat ey 😯 ).
The fuel tap is DEFINATLEY NOT wide open, my bike is surging when idling to around 3 to 4k and no adjustment on the idle screw will fix this, it does sometimes temporarily however it starts again on my next stop more often than not (I’m pretty sure it’s a vacuum leak).
I know the fuel tap is definitely off when I switch it off, I sometimes would forget the tap previously and the fuel would sit on one or both pistons and hyrodlock and I havent experienced this with my current set up at all. I’ve persisted through fuel leaks to get to this point at the tap however I have fixed this by ordering a bigger tap as the fittings on the ones I ordered clearly weren’t the mm they said they were.
I’ve owned this bike since 2012 I’m not new to any of this hah, are baz and sim not around anymore? Are you still in touch with James (BD – cillit banged an engine if you remember)?
Anyway yeah it does make sense but I think you may have skimmed over what I originally put.
~My previous tank was the old old comet one, no mikuni vacuum tap just 2 outlets (one main fuel and the other serve) and vent/overflow whatever yano…
My bike is absolutely DRINKING fuel right now, high idle (I suspect my inlet boots are done) has anyone tried the china ones?
Is it a 2003 silver frame where it uses a “frame mounted” tap and the fuel tank itself has 2 holes coming out of it to feed the tap thats on the frame ? or a newer black 2005+ frame where the tank itself has its own tap (no need for frame) Feel free to upload an image of your setup now if you want to clarify ?
Bikes a blue 06 with black frame, I think the fuel tap changed 07 upwards on the comets to mount to the tank. This tap has the reserve out the top with the fuel supply on the side and it’s broken apart it seems friction fit? but anyway I have a plan but I’m not sure if it will work.
When I get my bike back I’ll take pictures, the mikuni vacuum tap has been blanked off and forced open to a universal fuel tap.
I don’t think I’ll be able to find one of these sadly
It’s not an 03, it’s an 06 I believe 06 was the last year of that tap. Richard (who had direct sourcing with Hyosung) couldn’t get hold of it and was waiting on them coming in but obviously went bust at some point. I think the tap coming out the tank is an 07 upwards thing previously they had 2 outlets that aren’t able to be removed in any sort of way.
It’s a blue comet with a black frame, it mounts on the frame with the reserve poking out the top, the main supply is fed on the side however mine here has fallen apart it seems to be a friction fit? but I can’t for the life of me stop it leaking – I have an idea but I have to wait to get the bike back.
I’ll get pics when my bikes back, vacuum feed for the mikuni gt250 vacuum tap is blanked and forced open with a universal tap on it for now I currently only have one outlet to it (main fuel line).
