FJ
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I messed up the coil testing. Did it again, I hope properly. So testing the pins in the ignition coils, I get 0.7 ohms in both coils, it might jump to 1 or 2 ohms for a split second, but it sometimes reads OL.
Negative in the spark plug cap and positive in the coil, I get 12 kOhms in both coils.
Also opening the throttle a bit when starting sometimes seems to make a difference, other times not at all.
Further to my last message, I was able to make the video a link
https://jumpshare.com/folder/tE8ncFz1ysax9mFwLKFF
It’s an old video from test jump starting the bike with my car. It would start right away a bunch of times, probably due to the bigger car battery but then would crank a bunch without starting, the same as on its own battery.
That’s kind of when I figured the bike’s battery wasn’t the issue.
I got two oxygen sensors from you guys (along with two ngk caps because why not). When bike starts, the codes are gone, so no codes at all when it starts. When just the key on, no starting, the codes show up but gone as soon as it starts. I checked to see what codes they are, and they’re the exact same as before. So I assume it just needs an ecu reset when everything is fixed to clear the codes? I did reset the ecu before with the key method.
The starting issue remains.
Battery takes a charge 13.5 to 14.5 volts at 5000 rpm. Closer to 14.5 than the latter so the charging system works. However, I will test the stator/ reg rec the way you said.
From videos I’ve checked on a bad sprag clutch, it does not sound like it when starting. But I’ll check if I need to, hopefully last resort as I don’t want another oil change to just not ride the bike.
I tried to upload a video under 16 mb but it wouldn’t. It’s MP4 but it says not supported : (
Best I can describe is fuel pump primes, sometimes starts with a touch, most of the time it doesn’t, it will crank and sounds like catching once or twice but does not catch. Usually starts on the third or fourth try on a charged battery. Unless the initial cranks eat the battery, then back to the battery charger lol.
Took out the ignition coils. Testing the two pins inside the coil, will mostly read zero kOhms or OL but a number shows for a split second if I move it around, 12, 17, 22 something then back to OL or zero. Positive in the coil and negative in the spark plug cap gives a pretty consistent 12.06 in one coil and 12.17 in the other.
I haven’t yet done the extra negative cable you said.
But what do you think? Bad ignition coils.
Another thing, the caps you guys gave me are a bit short, like, the tip of the cap does not protrude and is almost level with the top of the hole, but just enough for the cap cover, so I guess that’s fine, as long they’re spec for the bike.
One issue though, it will now die if left on idle for some minutes. It didn’t do that with the stock caps. So when it starts it will stay around 1500 rpm for some minutes until it sounds like misfiring for a few seconds and dies.
Also when ridden, there is some hesitation around 7k rpm
Man, I’m never getting another mistreated second hand bike. You do your best but at some point you question if there’ll ever be a solution!
Thanks!
Considering I fixed pretty much all issues on the bike besides the oxygen sensors, could that be the cause of intermittent starting issues (cranks endlessly sometimes, starts sometimes)?
By that I mean, if the battery I have, 12v 9ah, be the cause of my starting issues. Not the oxygen sensors, that you answered before :).
Hi, thanks so much for the details. I looked into batteries since you mentioned those two : YUASA YTX 14BS or VARTA 14BS. I noticed they’re 12 volts 12 ah batteries. I look on my bike and I’m running a 12 volt 9 ah battery. So I searched and turns out I’ll have to drive around to look for a 12 v 12 ah bike battery where I live, hopefully the ones you mentioned.
I have two questions:
– Considering I fixed pretty much all issues on the bike besides the oxygen sensors, could that be the cause of intermittent starting issues (cranks endlessly sometimes, starts sometimes)?
– My car has a 12 v 36 ah battery. If I jump start it with that, car NON running of course, is that safe? and if it starts right away, would that prove all I needed was a battery with the proper ah?
Why do hyosungs need 12 ah anyway? I see other bigger bikes, with more cylinder and more tech, needing 10 ah, 8 ah, or even 6 ah batteries.
Thank you I’ll replace the oxygen sensors and make sure the ecu plugs and pins are cleaned with compressed air. To clarify, do the O2 sensors actually affect starting or running only, or both?
Regarding the battery, it’s rather new (not exactly premium) but it charges around 14 – 14.5 volts when running. It also does not drop below 10 volts when cranking, stays around 10 and below 11 during crank. Wouldn’t that be enough to run the bike? Or will a more expensive/ premium battery make it start better?
Spark plugs are new, CR8E ones, I checked the grounds and they were okay, fuel pump primes (is new and oem), injectors were cleaned and they fire properly, fresh fuel in the tank, new fuel line and fuel filter, clean airbox, starter relay is also new (oem).
I checked again earlier and sometimes it cranks repeatedly without starting, sometimes it starts with a single push of the starter button. Then idles and revs fine, I will not ride it with fear of it not starting on me.
Should I replace the spark plug caps/ high tension lead with the uprated ngk ones you guys sell on the site? One of the caps uses a thick copper wire as high tension lead (previous owner), I made sure it wasn’t oxidised. The other spark plug cap looks good and has the oem high tension lead.
Sorry for the essay, been like a year I’m fighting with this bike. I’m getting a new suzuki next time lmao.
Hi, I’m getting the following codes:
10 1 3 1
10 1 3 8
10 10 3 7
The problem is hard starts. It takes too many cranks to start up. Eats up the battery. Sometimes it cranks forever, usually on the first/ second try. It will/ may start with few cranks on the third/ fourth try if I’m lucky. When it starts, idles and revs fine, and the battery charges fine.
Can you please tell me what these codes are for? Also how exactly to read fault codes? The service book doesn’t really say.
Thank you so much!
Hi, it’s been a while since I’ve been able toΒ work again on this bike.
I’ve replaced the regulator rectifier, replaced the tank and fuel pump (old one was leaking due to rust). I did an engine oil change. Battery is new and I have a charger in case it dies or is not used for a while.
First start after a few months, both cylinders start, so that looks fixed, only one was starting before (both exhausts hot at the same rate when starting). Bike cold starts at 2000 rpm and drops down to around 1600 rpm and idles okay. Revs well on neutral with normal throttle response.
I know that I need to get the bike on the road for real world testing. The bike used to struggle revving past 7000 rpm under load. I am eager to test that but there’s two issues. It still has trouble starting. It takes quite some seconds of cranking for it to start, and from what I’ve seen, that eats up and kills the battery, hasn’t killed it so far. I assume because it’s finally charging (14 to under 15 volts on idle) with the new rectifier.
I don’t want to put this bike on the road if it wont start easily. And second issue is I’m still getting code c18. Rear IAP sensor was already replaced with a new one.
So:
1. Hard starts, takes too much cranking, sometimes starts on a few cranks (few seconds) or will crank a lot (which used to kill my battery)
2. Still getting FI light with code C18, IAP sensor was replaced already
I don’t want to get stranded, even close to my house, it’s very heavy for me lol. I want to fix the starting issue before getting it out and test further. I’m slowly learning to work on bikes.
Thanks!
And no worries about the uploader, if it works for others it’s fine. I’m okay with sending links.
I’ll send an email for a quote, the reg rec you sent me earlier, it will work fine with my bike right? Just to confirm.
That looks interesting but 120 pounds in a bit steep right now. If I get the OEM part, what kind of risks am I getting into? Will it go bad with normal/ regular use?
A little backstory, the bike slept many months in all kinds of weather and it was jump started it with a running car battery, I think that’s what messed up the reg rec, probably.
Btw I still can’t see the upload image option, it’s still the same and I tried with different browsers, on phone and pc. But it’s okay though, maybe when I create a new thread, I’ll get the option.
Thanks for confirming. I didn’t get the parts on this site because I saw UK shipping. I used HyosungWholesale. Do you ship internationally? And would you have this specific regulator rectifier 32800HN9121?
I checked the guide to upload an image, but I don’t see the add media button. This is what I see:
And this is what I get when opening the insert/edit media button:
See below, I’m not sure if this is what you asked for (I’m still getting used to the terms for bike parts) but this is the connecter/plug that comes from the stator. It’s an older picture I took when taking things apart. You can see the original reg rectifier still on the bike but disconnected from the stator plug.
Thanks.
Hi, thanks for helping and sorry it’s been a while. Turns out my stator is good and the regulator rectifier went bad. One issue though, I bought the wrong one, only noticed after it was shipped. Here is the one that was on my bike:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/DbLmytH
Part number GD250 32800HN9121
Here is the one that I bought:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/3kvyJDd
Part number 32800HN9110 / 32800HN9101 / 32800HP9300
I got a dozen other parts and it’s the one thing I get wrong, the most important one.
I don’t know why my GT250R takes the GD250 regulator rectifier but it does. That’s how I made the mistake.
Do I need to get the original one or can I get someone who knows to swap the plugs?
IAP sensor came in today, before installing, I had disconnected the battery for around 2 days, also charged it. Sprayed contact cleaner on every socket/plug I found. Installed the new IAP, made sure everything is connected. I let the bike idle for a while, around 20-30 minutes. Issue remains, FI still lights up, and code still c18.
Will riding the bike make any difference? The bike will run, but takes quite some cranking to start it up, and eats up the battery, so I may be left stranded. I won’t go far but I do need to go to a gas station to check tyre pressure.
Thanks for the reply and for clarifying. I’ll get a new IAP sensor. Had already replaced the idle speed sensor. I’ll do as you advised. Thanks again.
I found the IAP sensor for the rear cylinder/ throttle body.
Then I went to look for the front cylinder so I can swap them. Am I crazy or is the front IAP just MISSING, shouldn’t it be there (circled red in the next picture), just below the intake hose as the other one is?
Basically the bike starts on the front cylinder only, with quite a bit of cranking, then takes around 5 mins of idling for the second cylinder to start working. After 10 mins of idling, both cylinders run and bike will rev to redline in neutral. HOWEVER, under load, in all gears, it barely ever goes above 7k rpm, if it does, it’s erratic and sudden, like it gets stuck and suddenly goes up, inconsistently.
Mechanic fully serviced the bike but this error persisted so he told me to research on forums because this bike doesn’t exist anymore where I live.
The code is C18. So that’s why I wanted to swap the IAPs to see if I can reverse the problem, which would indicate one IAP gone bad. Hence I’d just replace. I cannot find the front IAP and I really hope it’s not missing. Should it be where I circled?
Thanks so much, that rear cylinder was the culprit since the beginning. I’ll get this checked with my mechanic. Hopefully it’s more or less the end of my woes with this bike.
10 1 1 8
That’s the pattern I got, I let it repeat multiple times, there was this code, then a long pause, then this same code again, so I assume it’s the only code/ issue.
Can’t seem to find anything concrete about it online.
Can you advise please? Maybe to a link to get to the bottom of this.
