Mick
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I hope he is okay though! – Not fun to come off!! On my part, i will try to dig thru my stuff but i have a chance that i will have: – Rear axle bar & nut (what happend to old one?, rare to break that bar in half!) – footpeg (should be on my ebay but older classic design) – left gearshifter arm (on my ebay) (though depends how bad yours is you can rescue it) – hangers common to be welded on nowdays , they appear to be discontiuned from new production nowdays. (i’m 50/50 ill dig one out) – Got a rod that links the shift arm to engine arm, – tatty (2007) – seems to want painting from its mild steel gone dark – need to dig it out. (unlisted) – Can pickup a clutch lever new and sent within 24hrs im sure, too many shops around here have it. Just have to ring em to open doors lol. Tell the lad to recover well and calm down lol. We need him alive
He is fine, nothing hurt but his ego. There is nowt worse than coming off though, hes really lucky. I’ve come off big bikes and know first hand it hurts.
Do you have a link to your ebay marcel?
Rear axle has lost its thread where its slid along the road, sounds minor but the last thing I want is to take that rear wheel off and not be able thread the nut back on, or even worse it vibrates off.
Hi Mick, Did you get suitable replacement pads? If so can you let me know the pad no’s as i will need some decent ones in the future and have the same model ,year etc as yourself. Many thanks in advance, Dave.
I tried EBC fa086 at first, they seemed too thin so switched to the goldfren (carbon cermamic) equivalent pads. Still seem too thin but that’s what is listed and are safe to use until I find a thicker alternative
Hey, You will find the copper gasket sets in the /shop/ section or PM me if you would rather have the more basic OEM version (it’s silver, fibre ish kind of material) The “link pipe hollow gasketing” (where rear joins the bottom) is most likely found in bike shops locally (ring to ask 1st?) , also the pipe diameter matters vs exterior diameter so that it sits inside nicely, it can crumble easily! – I forgot the dimensions off my head the ones hyosung uses for their standard pipes. If you have stock pipes with the cat-box in the bottom at the middle, normally a welder cuts it off and then adds steel pipes to route the gas flow towards the giant pipe going to the end can. Now you have a pipe system that is as free flow as the black widow types. End cans = I would keep the internals, and stick a baffle in. The 125 aways pulls better (accel AND top end when the final exit hole is about the size of a 10p coin) If there is a huge hole with nothing, the bike screams away but goes slower until top gear, going to the hills may annoy him due to slightly less torque. Some gases need to stay in the pipes , it’s a good thing for a vtwin where it makes peak power around 8-10k revs than having to redline it hot all the time (valves!).
It’s cool, it’s a sensible scorpion end can, has a fixed baffle in and not completely empty. I had it left over from a bike I stripped a while back. over the heavy and highly restrictive standard end can this is suitable.
I think I will leave the cutting the box open, I managed cut the flange off the pipe in situation without damaging anything. The performance gains wouldn’t be work it.
Thanks for the advice and the reply 👍
Update. After taking original end can off I discovered there is a honey combed catalytic converter in the actual end can!!!
So in theory the shouldnt be a great deal of restriction in the box where the front pipes are?
Okay, so sorry for the long gab between updates, due to work and family life just haven’t had time to work on it till today, but I have a massive update!! So I have now got the bike starting every time without fail and will happily run for as long you need until you turn it off and doesn’t stall anymore, and the throttle can actually be used now (concidering before I sorted this it would stall the second you touched the throttle
) So it turns out that the owner before me and messed with the mixture screws and they were like way out so i somewhat sorted that to an extent so that it’s now running, unfortunately then ran out of time for today but tomorrow I’ll be back out there again and I’ll balance the carbs and then set both screws and everything to where it should be and then thats then engine done apart from a good service 
She’s so close to being done now it’s unreal just a few more small jobs, which as any of you that work on your own bikes will know they never stay small jobs but either way, should be finished soon then I can finally get back in the road 
I have just had the same issue. The mixture screws were set as they were from factory… after a carb clean it ran terrible, constantly surging for idle. Spent 45 minutes getting the mixture right and balanced the carbs… runs sweet now.
The problem is with newer bikes, to meet emission laws carburetors are set so lean its daft. Up the main jets one size and (if you know what you are doing!) Set the mixture correctly. A quick balance if you have vacuum gauges does them a world of good too!
You can message me in 48hrs as i will be listing one on ebay as i am due to strip an efi bike soon. Genuine ones last better than china copies but they want to be covered from water end to end and the spring tip has a bit of grease inside it.
Brilliant thank you! It’s not an efi model but I assume they are the same?
Thank you very much for the information! Very detailed thank you.
I’m a bit of a novice with my multimeter but will give it a go.. do I test each component while engine is switched off but ignition turned on? Or will engine have to be running to test ohms?
I’ve already swapped the plug caps for straight NGK ones… being a Triumph owner it’s pretty much the first thing I do with any motorcycle. I’ve only used the overpriced iridium plugs once on a bike… overrated and overpriced cack in my opinion, standard NGK (GENUINE!!) Are always bomb proof and easier to clean should they get fouled up… the iridium I used in a 2T were a bugger to clean and gap correctly so ended binning them and never looked back since. Many thanks
