Viewing 4 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #3608
      Mick
      Member
      • Topics: 5
      • Replies: 9
      Joined:
      Dec 19, 2019
      @daytona675
      Uk
      Mainly Triumphs
      Points: 137

      Hello.

      Come across this site due to purchasing fuel filter and lines from the shop.

      I recently purchased a gt125r for my son, 2016 carby model that has been stood a while. Starts but ran like a bag of crap…. fuel is off. I’m currently in the process of cleaning the carbs and tank out and upjetting to 90/92.5 jets as I know most manufacturers lean bikes out from factory for emission laws etc. Hopefully after a good clean, fresh fuel, oil, filters plugs and caps it will run right as rain again…

      I’ve heard the regulators are made of chocolate and there is a Kawasaki replacement? Does anyone know the make/model/year of the kawasaki replacement? I live up the road from a kwacker dealer and can pick one off the shelf.

      Any other upgrades or anything to look out for on my lads new pride and joy?

    • #3609
      ♠️ MARCEL
      Administrator
      • Topics: 38
      • Replies: 384
      Joined:
      Dec 19, 2019
      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
      GTR
      Points: 4,362

      Hey Mick 👍

      We use huge regs that are mosfet based than basic shunt tech,  you are right to assume the hyosung ones are as lethal as they come lol.  You will see the regs at shop pages.
      The regs I get from supply chain are off Kawasaki ATV’s mainly, 15v limit, 3 phasing stator,  however i can say my own reg has been good for many years.  I just make sure it fits the bikes listed & is intentionally large.
      Electrosport in USA isn’t too bad either,  i have it on one of my other hyosungs.

      If you’re fancy, you can get the Shingden ones which are common thing to do on the 650cc hyos, though wire bridging may be possible without the hyosung-harness kit that comes with the reg.

      Conside the coils should be under 6k ohms from HT wire to frame or replace them, the stock ones will annoy you once they start to add up resistance, even while its hotter running.

      HT Caps are made by Golden (china),   switch to NGK and call it day 😉

      The spark plugs should be new but it is possible a bad carb or coil will foul them up and it means new ones again.    Don’t touch IX-Blue plugs ever, the hyosungs hate it.    Use platinum ones (laser)  or the stock copper ones.

      Last shout, only because its part of live ignition system,  stator yellow wires must be under 0.7 ohms (no more at all) each wire must be identical.  (3 pin)  do this when bike is turned off ofcourse.
      Otherwise it should be about 80v strong AC at around 4k ish revs.

      Stator blue/green plug  = 100-120 ohms .

      As you go through the cleaning process & testing the initial stuff above^, from there then we shall see what else it needs or hopefully not.

      You got this 🤺

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #3610
      Mick
      Member
      • Topics: 5
      • Replies: 9
      Joined:
      Dec 19, 2019
      @daytona675
      Uk
      Mainly Triumphs
      Points: 137

      Thank you very much for the information! Very detailed thank you.

      I’m a bit of a novice with my multimeter but will give it a go.. do I test each component while engine is switched off but ignition turned on? Or will engine have to be running to test ohms?

      I’ve already swapped the plug caps for straight NGK ones… being a Triumph owner it’s pretty much the first thing I do with any motorcycle. I’ve only used the overpriced iridium plugs once on a bike… overrated and overpriced cack in my opinion, standard NGK (GENUINE!!) Are always bomb proof and easier to clean should they get fouled up… the iridium I used in a 2T were a bugger to clean and gap correctly so ended binning them and never looked back since. Many thanks

    • #3613
      ♠️ MARCEL
      Administrator
      • Topics: 38
      • Replies: 384
      Joined:
      Dec 19, 2019
      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
      GTR
      Points: 4,362

      I’m a bit of a novice with my multimeter but will give it a go.. do I test each component while engine is switched off but ignition turned on? Or will engine have to be running to test ohms?

      For ohms testing , bike is turned off (key out), unplug the connectors and probe inside their own pins (any order)

      Stator 3 pin  yellow under 1 ohm on the meter (the lowest) => probe pin 1 and 3 ,  then pin 2 and 3,   2 and 1 ,  all 3 combinations should have the same figures.

      Stator 2 pin blue/green = under 200 ohms on meter

      HT wire of coil (red meter) and frame (ground for black meter) => under 6,000 ohms.

      That should be it.

      the only test while engine running is the stator yellow plug telling your meter its producing 80v -/+ at 4k revs ish   , 85-99 is the optimal range as per service book in AC

      Regulator itself also depends on the effeciency of the stator , since they go in tandem anyway.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #3619
      Mick
      Member
      • Topics: 5
      • Replies: 9
      Joined:
      Dec 19, 2019
      @daytona675
      Uk
      Mainly Triumphs
      Points: 137

      Got it. I’ll give it a whirl when the carbs are back on. Thanks Marcel!

Viewing 4 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Skip to toolbar