Alukewarmpuddle
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Also Marcel,
Just chasing front pads and discs (really should be replaced but I could ride as is) for the 250, there don’t seem to be any in the store. Could you point me in the right direction? Would Ebay pads/discs be worth the risk?
Gave that a go but still doesn’t like to hold the correct choke rpm. Is there anything else that could be causing the issue? Trouble is I have no idea how the choke system works to troubleshoot lol. Or is how it is running to be expected? I could have sworn the choke was working as expected before I started messing with the carbs.
I just gave the bike a cold start with the choke on. It’ll idle high then settle but after 10-15 seconds the idle will slow then the engine will cut out as if it’s running out of fuel. Is there anything I should check on the carbs that could be causing this? It runs perfectly without the choke in all gears at WOT so I’m guessing something is messing with the choke/enrichening circuit?
UPDATE #4:
Got it running. Turns out the main jet for the front carb was blocked. Carby cleaner and compressed air worked wonders.
I don’t think it could be the floats as the bike seems to starts and idle virtually perfectly. I took the airbox off and ran the bike just to see if the slides were to blame and they’re also moving from 0-100% and back to 0% just fine. Pretty much I just have that weird acceleration issue when the carbs switches from the pilot circuit to the main circuit. Bit of a head scratcher.
UPDATE #3
Went for a test ride and the bike doesn’t seem to accelerate correctly. At idle and revving at a stop the bike runs as normal. When I set off at the point where the carbs switch from the pilot to the main jet I get really slow acceleration. At WOT it feels as if the bike is accelerating at 1/8th throttle. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?
UPDATE #2
The vacuum hose for the fuel pump was plugged in but the vacuum port for the fuel tank petcock was not. Covered the port with my finger and now the bike runs and idles as per factory settings. Or seems to anyway.
UPDATE:
Set floats to 7mm and put the carbs on the bike. It idles now and I am able rev the engine however only with a very slow input of throttle. If I give it a moderate turn it’ll cut out. Furthermore, If I rev it and it comes down to idle it’ll cut out (e.g. 5000rpm -> idle).
I have not made any adjustments to the needle groove settings.
I have an auxiliary tank plumbed into the carb fuel intake that is gravity fed only just in case that has anything to do with it.
Thought I’d add more picture for further context.
Top float = unadjusted
-Fits perfectly with good travel
-Bounces on needle valve
Bottom float = adjusted to meet 7mm spec.
-Fits but has little travel. Feels as if when the tang touches the float needle pin there is little travel as I gently push the float towards the fully closed position (can reach fully open position just fine)
Pardon my ignorance, this could be perfectly normal and I’m just being paranoid. But hey it doesn’t hurt to double check.
Regarding the brass float valves with which the rubber o-rings sit on is there a way to install them correctly or is it just a case of pulling the old valves out and simply pushing the new ones in? Just trying to make sure I don’t unintentionally damage anything with the install.
Oh I apologise, but I do see now that the mirrors are staggered. What I mean to say was that the right mirror now, when fully tight, points in the direction shown. Almost as if the mirror bolt needs to be slightly longer to correctly fit in its correct orientation towards the rider. Is there any way I could remedy this?
Pardon my ignorance, but would any 5/8 inch aftermarket master cylinder do (axial or radial) or does it have to be an OEM 650R master cylinder? I also assume the lever would bolt straight on and all I would require is the master cylinder itself?
Thank you for the info btw massive help in wrenching on these bikes.
