Rear Hyosung Shock by KR for GT250R
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G’day guys. Just bought a Shock Absorber from Hyosung. It’s made for KR in China (Part Number:62100H98600). It’s a bit different from my original. Looks weaker at the bottom mount. The spring look supside down-the tightly wound part of the spring is at the bottom instead of the top.
My question: Does this shock have compression damping adjustment?
There is a small phillips head screw at the very top of the shock (with a brass nut around it). Is that for adjusting the compression damping?
Putting it on the bike soon. Anyone have any TIPS?
-----LaserBeam---->
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It is still made by Kayaba Japan , as they make all the forks and shocks for Hyosung (exclusively i believe, as I’ve not heard Hyosung use anyone else) though , it doesn’t shock me if Kayaba Japan used a china plant to make the updated shocks. It is weaker at the bottom yes. I would not try to undo the gold screw, may just be oil fill.
The spring adjustment (stiffness / softness) is on the 2x castle nuts resting on the spring itself. Further down makes the shock stiffer or further up make it very soft or very bouncy.
You can remove the bottom mount “U” shaped plate, that’s its only weakest point , otherwise rest of shock is OK. Get that duplicated buy someone else who does metal works and tell them to make the same “U” plate but 3x thicker & weld the nut for good.
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Thanks Marcel. I didn’t think any 250 shocks had adjustable damping but i was hoping.
This shock is NITROGEN gas filled. It is not oil.
This KR shock has a Made In China sticker on the Yellow Barcode Label. I bet its not Japanese.
Why is the spring upside down, you reckon? The tighter winds of spring are at bottom of shock where as the originals are the opposite?
Should i unnscrew the preload tensioner and pull the spring off & turn it around????
Or leave it as it is????
The U-Shaped bracket does look weak. The SHAFT that the U-Shape bracket is bolted too also looks weak compared to the stock shock.
-----LaserBeam---->
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I installed the rear shock absorber 4 hours ago. Anyone wants to know how to do it please let me know. The 2x videos i found on the subject were wrong and make it difficult. I had another idea and it worked beautifully. Hyosung sold me the shock but the spring looks the wrong way round. I left it like that to test it. Seems firm but its ok. It’s much better than the pounding my old shock was giving my backside. Thing must’ve been half siezed. Rock soild impacts to the backside aren’t much joy. Feels like a motorbike is meant to feel. Stoked.
-----LaserBeam---->
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Every Hyosung bike i’ve had to fix regarding suspension had leaked oil, it would be a nice surprise if they started using GAS instead of OIL. But their site still mentions oil use even for Cars / Trucks
Please do the tutorial , that would be a great knowledge base for the forum!
The reason for using a shaft & nut with a U bracket is probably likely that KYB uses that shock on a different bike other than Hyosung , so it may not be as exclusive as we think on the updated part, just the U part made for hyosung to fit our bikes. I have a suspicion Suzuki may still be using KYB shocks (as they did since the early SV & GSX days but different mountings & heights due to swingarm clearance , ours has a narrower clearance!) – the 07′ shock was overall better built but exclusively for 250R , i’ve not seen yet another bike use that shock.
Don’t change anything on the current shock right now , but keep an eye on the U-bracket , and improve it when the time comes. Spring position will not matter as long the big 2x nuts squeeze the spring more for a stiffer ride or loosen for a bouncier ride.
I’ve leaved over the years , that a slightly stiffer setting is best on these 180 kg bikes. I never felt comfortable riding even on the loose setting, the handling was just risky in the rainy roads.
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The secret to replacing the REAR SHOCK GT250R:
-Remove seats
-Remove 2x REAR fairings
-Unscrew CDI box but leave it connected
-Remove Battery
-Undo 2x Bolts inside the pillion seat box
-Undo 2x Bolts & remove Metal Bar from under rear mudguard (located under battery)
-Undo REAR Footpeg (Right Rear Footpeg from memory)
-Undo 4x Bolts of Rear Brake Light Housing (hang it from bike with cable-ties, etc)
-Remove Bolts holding the Rear Mudguard
-Slide MUDGUARD backwards & pull it towards the side of bike where you removed rear footpeg
-Leave Mudguard, Brake Light Housing & Indicators on bike but secured & out of the way
-Now you can easily SEE & ACCESS your REAR SHOCK
-Place a JACK under REAR of bike to take WEIGHT OFF the SWINGARM (Jack to FRAME just infront of SWINGARM & not on exhaust)
(find HEIGHT SWEET-SPOT where SHOCK BOLTS are easy to remove & replace as they have no load on them)
-Apply HEAT to the Linkages & Shock Bolts
-Undo Nut from Both Linkages but LEAVE THE BOLTS IN & let Linkages hang
-Can use RING SPANNERS to LOOSEN Rear Shocks Upper & Lower Nuts (i hit spanners with hammer but can use Breaker-Bar)
-Remove Lower Shock Bolt
-Hold Shock & Remove Upper Shock Bolt
-Lift Rear Shock up & it’s out of there
-Lower NEW Rear Shock into place, Insert Upper Bolt & Lightly tighten Nut (i add Lithium Grease to bolts & nuts of shock & linkages)
-Insert Lower Bolt & Lightly Tighten Nut
-Check HEIGHT of your JACK (May need to LIFT or LOWER the bike to get Bolts in nicley)
-Tighten Upper & Lower Shock Bolts
-Replace the Shock Linkages on the Left & Right & Tighten
-Lower the bike off the Jack & push the rear of bike down to test
-If nothing is BINDING, slide mudguard back into place & replace bolts & fairings (Don’t forget the BAR – it supports the weight of your battery)
PS. If you fully remove the Mudguard, you’ll have to undo your indicators & it will be a bit harder to replace it – don’t bother, just pull it back & to one side
PPS. Fast & very easy job – i was suprised. Hardest bit is undoing the Shock Bolts with the little ring spanners i used. 😀
Original Hyosung GT250 Shock Absorber with Bolts & Linkages Connected
Newer version of the Hyosung GT250 Rear Shcok Absorber
-----LaserBeam---->
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