Electrical problem with my Hyosung GT125R
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Recently, I noticed that the start and horn buttons of my Hyosung GT125R don’t always work. I have to push the buttons multiple times to finally make them work.
One time, I was riding and got caught in the rain. Could the rainwater have caused this issue?
I hope you can provide me with some advice. Thanks.
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The fact it’s both sides messing around says its probably the connector blocks behind the headlight unplug spray with contact cleaner, the starter switch could be the side stand switch playing up.
Thanks, I will do that and update with the results.
P.S.: I already bypassed the side stand switch because it was causing my bike to shut down while riding, haha.Also, today I noticed that when I press the start button and the bike does not start, I can see the neutral bulb dim, and I can’t hear the starter relay either. It could be the starter relay, but that does not explain the horn button issue.
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Lights going dimm when pressing start usually means either of these:
- Tank Tap has burst,causing fuel to keep flowing to the carb , causing cylinders to hydrolock (dangerous), remove “OIL FILLER” plug on your clutch cover and sniff hard. if you smell fuel, drain oil, replace oil filter, service the carb, replace intake orings , and definitely replace the tap
Or
Lift tank safely , and cover electronics (be wise!!) , disconnect fuel pipe from the tap and see if tap bursts fuel in to bucket while bike is totally off. I say use extreme caution as petrol fumes near battery can easily cause instant flames should spillages happen. You have been warned 😬
- Relay is burst (common)
- Battery too old or weak. Get it tested free at halfords or bike shop with their own “specialized bettery gauges”
- Battery too small (too low CCA to crank 2 pistons)
- Charging system wanning (causing battery to have low volts to start next time) common culprit is a regulator (which can annoy the stator next and kill it)
- Starter Motor too old (last but not least, but it is not uncommon)
Good luck and see about doing what Simon said above ^
- Tank Tap has burst,causing fuel to keep flowing to the carb , causing cylinders to hydrolock (dangerous), remove “OIL FILLER” plug on your clutch cover and sniff hard. if you smell fuel, drain oil, replace oil filter, service the carb, replace intake orings , and definitely replace the tap
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The fact it’s both sides messing around says its probably the connector blocks behind the headlight unplug spray with contact cleaner, the starter switch could be the side stand switch playing up.
Lights going dimm when pressing start usually means either of these:
- Tank Tap has burst,causing fuel to keep flowing to the carb , causing cylinders to hydrolock (dangerous), remove “OIL FILLER” plug on your clutch cover and sniff hard. if you smell fuel, drain oil, replace oil filter, service the carb, replace intake orings , and definitely replace the tap Or Lift tank safely , and cover electronics (be wise!!) , disconnect fuel pipe from the tap and see if tap bursts fuel in to bucket while bike is totally off. I say use extreme caution as petrol fumes near battery can easily cause instant flames should spillages happen. You have been warned 😬
- Relay is burst (common)
- Battery too old or weak. Get it tested free at halfords or bike shop with their own “specialized bettery gauges”
- Battery too small (too low CCA to crank 2 pistons)
- Charging system wanning (causing battery to have low volts to start next time) common culprit is a regulator (which can annoy the stator next and kill it)
- Starter Motor too old (last but not least, but it is not uncommon)
Good luck and see about doing what Simon said above ^
Hi again, I recently noticed that if I turn off the light switch, the bike starts with the first push of the start button.
PS: I don’t think it’s hydrolock because the bike starts after pushing the start button 3 to 5 times with the light on. Also, I don’t believe it’s a battery issue because when the starter begins cranking, it performs very well.
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Sounds like weak battery if it can’t handle lights being ON and trying to crank it at the same time.
I would recommend a fresh battery from halfords or SportsBikeShop website (trusted) , to get YUASA YTX 14BS , little batteries degrade faster and will soon mean new starter motor and relay , engine is happy when battery has around 200CCA capacity to crank considering its a thirsty 2 piston vtwin.
Then confirm yourself or replace regulator or stator unit , if the following fails (even korea says change it too in their manuals)
– Idle Voltage = 14V DC (max 15v/14.8) —> Lowest accepted 13.6V
– 5,000 rpm voltage = 14v-15v (If it is 13.xx above 3,000 rpm, replace regulator, it will burn) -
Sounds like weak battery if it can’t handle lights being ON and trying to crank it at the same time. I would recommend a fresh battery from halfords or SportsBikeShop website (trusted) , to get YUASA YTX 14BS , little batteries degrade faster and will soon mean new starter motor and relay , engine is happy when battery has around 200CCA capacity to crank considering its a thirsty 2 piston vtwin. Then confirm yourself or replace regulator or stator unit , if the following fails (even korea says change it too in their manuals) – Idle Voltage = 14V DC (max 15v/14.8) —> Lowest accepted 13.6V – 5,000 rpm voltage = 14v-15v (If it is 13.xx above 3,000 rpm, replace regulator, it will burn)
Try with or without lights
Try with jumper cable.
I guess it’s a battery issue.
But I forgot to use the multimeter to test the regulator.
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