Description
Worn-out brake shoes drastically increase your stopping distance, which is a major road safety concern for daily learners and commuters on classic 125cc platforms. Because many newer riders start their motorcycling journey on these specific bikes, ensuring your rear hub assembly is operating efficiently is absolutely critical. This high-grade aftermarket set is fully tested on our own garage donor bikes to offer a reliable, safe, and cost-effective solution that gets your vehicle safely through its next local inspection checklist.
💎 Stop Like New Again with Quality Shoes
| Factory-Spec Friction LiningProvides predictable foot pedal response without damaging the soft inner alloy walls of your wheel hub. | OEM Blueprint MatchAccurately formed base curvature built to replace original part numbers matching 64400S93B01. |
| Simple DIY Mechanical FitA basic mechanical replacement job that can be tackled safely at home with standard garage hand tools. | Affordable Quality ChoiceGuarantees maximum commuter safety on wet roads. |
📜 Model Fitment Guide
Confirmed Rear Hub Matches: Fits the following air-cooled 125cc configurations using a rear drum setup:
- Hyosung GV125 Aquila: Fits all traditional carburettor V-Twin cruisers built between 1999 and 2017.
- Hyosung RT125 / RT125D Karion: Fits all sand-bike custom layouts across all production years.
- Hyosung RX125 / XRX125: Fits all classic trail and supermoto models running rear drum backing plates.
- Modern S-Platform Bobbers: Does NOT fit the newer liquid-cooled GV125S EFI models (2019 onwards), which use a completely separate frame design.
- GV250 Cruiser Generation: The 250cc model line uses an entirely separate, oversized rear drum layout block.
While dismantling your rear wheel spindle assembly to change your shoes, check your pull links carefully. We highly recommend checking your mechanical Rear Brake Cable Line for stiffness, seizing, or splitting rust. Swapping a binding line completely sharpens your foot pedal control!
🔧 Install Tips
- Manage Springs Cautiously: Use a dedicated workshop spring tool hook or heavy long-nose pliers to decouple the return tension coils. These internal components sit under strong load pressure—work carefully during removal.
- Wash Away Grime Dust: Use an oil-free brake cleaner spray to wash out dark lining dust from the backing plates and mechanical cams. Never blow old hub dust into the air with a compressor hose.
- Bed In the Material Smoothly: Take a small piece of fine sandpaper and lightly scuff the fresh friction lining face before sliding the wheel back onto the axle. This breaks the smooth factory glaze to give you a sharp initial bite. Give the foot pedal several firm pumps to set the alignment before heading out onto the road!
If you are looking for advice on adjusting your rear brake rod tension nuts or want us to double-check your bike registration , drop our team an email. For complete axle removal walk-throughs, wheel balancing advice, or peer support from long-term owners, head to the forums.



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