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Also, clear pipe , drain bowl loosened , look at the float bowl has _______ lines like that ______ , thats fuel height , you can have the clear hose against it to see if the fuel level is the same or carb is overflow on one pot or the other.
The lines I have marked in blue is what you were talking about in the above quote?
Ordered : floats ,pins and needle valves this evening. I won’t have the parts for a couple of weeks. I am unclear where to measure the 7mm for the float height and what position the carbs are in. I the manual section I do have,it seems the measurements are with the carbs upside-down,17mm from the carb bowl seam/flange to the now top of the plastic float.
I really appreciate all the help
I ran the bike today with an aux tank , still hooked to pump. There is a steady stream of fuel coming out of the front carb where the red straw is in the photo while the bike is running. I pulled the float bowls the other day and confirmed that the fuel flow stopped when pushing the floats up. I have no idea what I am missing here or why I would have this much pressure to cause the stream. I’ll put a pic of the aux tank setup. Also I haven’t found the service manual yet to see procedures for checking the valve clearances. As far as just checking the clearance I don’t think it would much different than my old ninja 500,cam lobes in a neutral position and such. Also,if I am posting this in the wrong spot let me know.
Today I found out it’s shim under bucket 🙁 never done those before. Is there a service manual on here for a 2008 gt250r? (Not sure where to look) Online I have only found partial manuals. I think you were correct on the stuck float thing . I pulled the air filter and there was a puddle of fuel towards the nose . Also, I did plug the egr hole in the airbox and I am going to run vac.from the front cyl boot to the pump directly and rear cyl to the diaphragm on the petcock directly instead of tees. Unless there is a balance issue?
On topic sort of . Just did a compression check : Both cyl peak at 140 psi with throttle WFO and engine relatively warmed up. Before this, the engine was smoking from the exhaust . When I removed the spark plugs ,the the rear was black with soot while the front appeared normal. I assume the rear is running rich?Jetting issue?Carbs recently rebuilt . Both jets were the same in the kit,but if memory serves the factory calls for bigger on one vs. the other . I assume again it is for cooling? ( this bike was/is a basketcase owned I believe by Methhead gangsta mechanics.)It is a 2008 gt250r with 7300 miles on the odometer So my next step is to check the valve clearance then test. I really don’t want to pull the carbs again as the clamps have to be placed precisely to avoid interference with the carb linkages. I very well may just be an idiot(likely) Also,egr at rear cyl is capped off both intake nipples are tee’d to fuel pump.The small tee fitting has been eliminated between the carbs and the left side (bowl overflow?) is joined with no vent.
I think beyond confusion there may be a question or two above.
I’m going to try you guys for parts don’t worry! Shipping is quicker from the UK than from Korea or New Zealand TRUST ME!
The rebuild kits seem to be unavailable,however, I found a used master cylinder I had ordered that appears to work. I just popped out the old sight glass and ordered a new slew for other projects as well. I had no idea until today that they could be replaced. I’ve just always dealt with cloudy sight glass.
Thank you, I think I went with 21 ft/lbs based on a general torque chart. And red Loctite. I ordered a new rear caliper and rebuild kits for the front two calipers. Do you know of a good front master cylinder rebuild kit part number? (2008 gt250r).
It seems you guys in the UK have better accessibility to parts for these bikes than here in the US, but with a good part number, I may be able to cross-reference.
And the time difference!
I bought a new sender from a car/truck ; although the mount flange is the same pattern and float arm would need to be modified it works bassakwards as far as resistance goes. Which is what I feared would happen as most cars/trucks level senders are mounted from the top of the tank unlike , I assume most bikes.
I would go with an old-school manual Petcock if the location was reachable. I don’t remember from whom I purchased the thing or what model it fit.
I was probably shopping while drinking and didn’t go from your list of recommendations. Also while drinking : The”SWAP THE WIRES “comment of mine , WHAT AN IDIOT. I’ve got a sender that I bought accidentally with the oval base which I guess is supposed to fit the injected models if someone wants it, just pay for shipping ( I’m in the US) the readings on that are 8.6 ohms empty 97.2 ohms full so this may not be in order either.
Lest I word on more; I think I’ll just seal the broken sender back in the tank and move on to other issues. Thank you for your help.
I may be wrong here: Most cars/trucks I have seen ,the sender unit mounts from the top of the tank down vs a motorcycle. Would that warrant swapping the wires to correct the ohms reading? Also, at least here in the US the first part numbers 34810 match a Suzuki side kick. It all seems to be reversed as far as the photos go.
Sorry to be a pain but this is the worst bike I’ve ever bought . I’ve pulled them from ditches,barns, and ponds. Yet this bike seems to have come into the path of meth head
engineering at its peak. Everywhere I turn on this bike a whacko has beaten me to the punch. It’s a 250 v (was told it was a 650) a nice projeckt , NOT.I answered my own questions: The tank outlet is level or just above the carb inlet. (So the pump is needed),( head pressure and such).
The petcock is situated at the rear middle of the tank. ( so a manual petcock would have to be remote to be accessible ).
And finally just block the pump hole and watch the odometer for range.3 questions. I think. Block off the sending unit hole in the tank, go with old school petcock with off, on, and reserve( no standpipe for reserve? no vacuum bullshite, no gauge level.
The fuel pump is gravity-fed. Is it needed due to the orientation of the carbs float bowls or a v twin-specific issue( for the most part I have only dealt with singles or parallel twin carbs)? I have a new one either way.
Question 3? Somewhere on this forum, I saw a post with pics of how to eliminate the air valve thingy. Should the line coming from the base of the rear cylinder have a check valve installed for crankcase ventilation? I might have missed something being a USA citizen (joke).
I’ll expect a reply just as I wake up at 3 am to watch Moto GP live from Assen.Safety us to death. It is mostly what we work around. Well, that and emissions. Some safety devices are warranted ( if you rise off the seat of your tractor).
Side stand switches will cut the ign. just as you realize it’s down and folding up= no speed dump to the ground. Oddly my 2019 Tacoma has a clutch override switch- you can bet I double-check for neutral if outside the truck.
If they quit teaching us all there is no common sense.
Marcel you remind me of FOG fast old guy from Ninja 500 forum days .
Cheers
