Shiby
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Removed the barrel, barrel seems good just some normal wear and tear, piston is good. piston ring end gap is 0.40ish (id say more around 0.45ish) but feeler gauge doesn’t have 0.45. Still can’t seem to find spare pistons or rings unless I spend a crazy amount on piston and barrel. I’ve only tested the top ring that should be fine right?
And when piston in barrel it doesn’t wobble or anything, just the normal up and down movement.
Now thinking about it, ik I found the issue and the bike may give sentimental value, but im not sure its worth it, the bike is pretty worn out and if i do get it fixed, im not sure about the reliability down the line, I think it may be time, to part the bike. Sell the parts and helpin other riders keep their GT125Rs running especially since parts for these bikes can be hard to find. Previous owners, had a decent amount of them didn’t looks after this bike, i believe at one point it had a crash, as fairings aren’t painted and clocks been switched. Also not original ignition barrel…
Might be the best option for this bike.
Very high mileage i predict 40-50k rn at 23k but mileage been tampered with or something like that.
Kinda lost the confidence in this bike.
Was able to get the head off, there was a hidden nut, (had to remove the 2 hex bolts on the side cover) and a 10mm nuts was there, some hammering and the heads off,
I got some pictures could you let me know if there’s anything visually wrong with the top of piston and valves pls? Gasket I think deffo needs replacing. (Just click the arrows to go to the next photo, should be 5)
My bad, wasn’t talking about the 4x bolts, they did have a decent amount of corrosion on them, but was able to remove them, im talking about the 2 screw like bolts that hold cylinder head down on the outside (the ones I removed those small 10mm nuts from)
The screw goes from head to cylinder on the outside of engine, as thats the side that is stuck yet even hammering wont get it out, I tried a bit of prying again but that seem to damage the block it kinda just crumbles…
At the Worst timing my friend is tryna sell his yzf 125 to me for 1.4k which is not bad.. and it only has 3k miles.
If that ends up happening and i can’t get the hyo back running, then either parts or scrap which I never wanted to happen.
As even if i get the hyosung running with how old the bike is, i reckon more issues would show up
Used a wrench slowly to try lift it up once again the left side would lift but the right side i was able to make it wobble a bit (tiny bit) the gasket seems to wobble when I give it a little pry with flat head, but I can’t seem to get the right side off (the side that had the 2 nuts) could the 2 long screws be culprit the ones i took the nuts off? They are very rusty, did spray wd40 on it a day ago. I tried a bit of hammering, some soft prying with wrench, was even able to lift the engine up by just holding the head, thats how strong its on there. Yet that side wont come loose. No idea what to do gasket seems free and am able to move piston (obv after I push the head back in place as slightly lifted from left). Rn its at the top
K here are the pictures
Also took pictures of the other side of head and the screws and the top
Was able to take out those bolts (kept going at it with a breaker bar then followed with impact) engines out. Now I took the cams, loosened the tensioner (ziptie on chain so it dont fall) removed every bolt i can see on the front cylinder, even the main 4 cylinder head bolts (long ones), and there were 2 hidden nuts near bottom on the outside, I removed them aswell yet head wont come out, the one side without those 2 nuts is coming put but the side with the nuts I removed. That side is stuck on, tried a bit of hammering and prying still no luck, even tried lightly hammering the exposed screw bit that had nut on yet nothing, how to I get it off?
Ok so a problem, 3 bolts are stuck they are the main frame engine bolts that holt the engine into the chassis, I got everything else out only those bolts wont budge, left wd40 on them overnight yet nothing not even with my impact driver (170nm) am I supposed to slightly jack up the engine then take them out (maybe engine sagging?) Or have they just been torqued up crazy, I dont have a jack at the moment. So I dont know why they wont come out, almost snapped my ratchet.
Also yeah previous owner needs a couple slaps, he prob knew it was low comp but sold as no spark, my past self mightve needed one for not checking compression (unless he had oil in cylinder before to trick me)
Ok, ill take the head off and have a look to see whats damaged, cylinder jugs Id most likely replace same with piston rings, if piston is damaged I will replace that.
I still couldn’t find replacement piston rings
The garages would charge a lot, id rather do this myself as its would be alot cheaper and insurance on this bike is kinda high so will need some money for insurance.
So for now only parts im looking to order beforehand are, piston rings
And if you have any links for good cylinder jugs
Replacing both heads, jugs and pistons due to cost of parts a replacement engine or even a different bike might be a better option unfortunately…
Will get this engine open tho and will have a look
Mmh right okay, so ill have to replace cylinder head and the cylinder barrel, how about piston rings?, and i could do this all without removing the engine right?
Also what would be an estimated cost
if its even worth the time and money spent.
A quick look at prices
Cylinder barrel £30 ish each £60
Cylinder head £100 each £200
And these are some of the cheapest I could find and condition apparently ok, not sure if its algorithm giving me these price but if I could get an estimate or some links. That would help out alot
Compression test above
Ok soo hooked the auxiliary tank directly to carb. This time bike would always start with ez start (wouldnt start on own) but at least it would start with ez, bike sounded alot louder, and would rev, i was able to hold throttle at certain position (I haven’t been able to set idle yet but was trying) and by holding the throttle there bike stayed at 2k for like 2m and then started to rev higher by itself and then die. Obv required a couple start ups to get to that point. When feeling the suction pipe that connects to tank it had good suction. The fuel pipes ones from carb to pump and pump to tank had suction but wasn’t as strong as that (pretty big difference). I guess for now and further testing ill stick with the auxiliary tank as it did help get the engine started alot easier.
Ok so the bike starts with easy start (pretty constant sprays) and idled for a couple seconds at 2k ish. Then does what is always did tried to die, was able to keeps the bike running after a couple more tries and had it running around 3k-4k for under 30s with some revs (revs were responsive after 3k-4k mark). The rear cylinder was hot, not the hottest, but hot and front was warm not hot, I kept trying wasnt able to get it started on easy start after that would try but then fail to run off tank.
Battery was charged before but may have lost some charge trying to get the bike hot, so not at 100% these are 1st try tests
Compression readings
Front: 95
Rear: 115
With oil in cylinder
Front: 145
Rear: 175
Tried testing with oil in cylinder again
2nd try but battery was dying then
So not sure if oil in cylinder test was low battery. (Did give good cranks tho when testing)
Everything put back together i give crank, no start i then double check mixture screws then idle screw, fuel filter only 15% full when crank. I sprayed easy start yet almost turned on but then didn’t and drank the 15% from fuel filter, got it started only once, only way to keep bike alive was full throttle, and was at about 2k rpm, after like 10s she revved up and I could rev until i let it drop and it died (same issue i had before). (Also when running i had a look at filter and fuel drizzle in to it like small stream at bottom of filter) Even after new jets full carb clean new Everything on carb, new o rings yet still same problem after that start couldnt get it started, not even with choke or ez start, with ez start it sounds like it will start but doesn’t. What do i do now?, nothing seems to work… I still remember that time couple months ago I got it started and it started first time then a week later it just does what it does now… might give up on this bike
Its over for me, right?
Couldnt remove the old heli insert that was in there, drill couldnt get it, tried removing with screw driver and this what happened… not fixable right..
Dang
Was thinking of a new motor, seen some on FB marketplace for around £150 which i think is pretty good price, but not sure about compression on them or wear and tear ðŸ˜, so too risky, i could get a replacement cylinder head but depends on the price. If its worth it, as the only damage is on the bolt hole on the intake pipe section of cylinder head,
Could get a professional weld on the bolt hole but not sure if it would hold or if its even worth it, will have to get a quote first
Oh and with the website, so basically the images show up when I paste them into this text box, but when I click submit the page goes back to the top and when I scroll down nothing is below. Then if I try again, it says something along the lines of “duplicate text detected” even tho there’s nothing here. Other time similar thing happened when I uploaded too many images.
Was thinking of a new motor, seen some on FB marketplace for around £150 which i think is pretty good price, but not sure about compression on them or wear and tear ðŸ˜, so too risky, i could get a replacement cylinder head but depends on the price. If its worth it, as the only damage is on the bolt hole on the intake pipe section of cylinder head,
Could get a professional weld on the bolt hole but not sure if it would hold or if its even worth it, will have to get a quote first
Oh and with the website, so basically the images show up when I paste them into this text box, but when I click submit the page goes back to the top and when I scroll down nothing is below. Then if I try again, it says something along the lines of “duplicate text detected” even tho there’s nothing here. Other time similar thing happened when I uploaded too many images.
I cant seem to upload my images
But basically its over for me, the bolt hole broke as in the hole is no longer a hole it snapped, i drilled out the old bolt, but the old heli insert wouldnt budge even with drill, soo i hit it with a screwdriver and yeah…
Not fixable is it…
Ill try send the pics, but yeah bad luck i guess.Soo removed carb and used compressed air in every hole of carb and in jets, when carb was removed it was dripping fuel but not from the hose part ill send a pic and circle it, now the intake pipes while taking one of then off unfortunately i was unlucky and a bolt snapped was able to remove the intake pipes both of them and will send a picture of their condition, now regarding that bolt that snapped the head snapped and luckily there is a good chunk of the bolt still sticking out, soo i tried to remove with vice grips but too tight, any suggestions before i use mr dremel and put a line in center of bolt so i can remove with flat head?, cuz really mr dremel is always my last resort, back to the carb everything seemed clear the thread of the jets did have some white powdery stuff on it (wasnt on there last time) air passes through jets perfectly, could get some air in the main jet hole (the actual carb hole on carb not individual jet)but obv it has holes in it soo cant get that much air pass. Also checked front spark plug and it was basically same as i left it.
