Shiby

[Shiby]

[Shiby]

Oh was just that I added 8 images to 1 post and wouldnt post cuz of that.

Ok so gonna clean all that crud away, got some o rings in basket

Also sorry forgot to ask, I couldn’t find and replacement bolts for the intake pipe for some reason, got any links for me? Would help alot

Also regarding the carb, do I need replacement jets?, the air flys throught them perfectly, might be the passageway of carb could hear air go through them but not sure tbh, and could my issue be related to the floats or anything else in carb?

As I plan on ordering everything, then on a day I’m off work getting started

Hope I get this bike running and insured before summer ends.

 

[Shiby]

Mb Issue was me sending images at once

[Shiby]

[Shiby]

Soo removed carb and used compressed air in every hole of carb and in jets, when carb was removed it was dripping fuel but not from the hose part ill send a pic and circle it, now the intake pipes while taking one of then off unfortunately i was unlucky and a bolt snapped was able to remove the intake pipes both of them and will send a picture of their condition, now regarding that bolt that snapped the head snapped and luckily there is a good chunk of the bolt still sticking out, soo i tried to remove with vice grips but too tight, any suggestions before i use mr dremel and put a line in center of bolt so i can remove with flat head?, cuz really mr dremel is always my last resort, back to the carb everything seemed clear the thread of the jets did have some white powdery stuff on it (wasnt on there last time) air passes through jets perfectly, could get some air in the main jet hole (the actual carb hole on carb not individual jet)but obv it has holes in it soo cant get that much air pass. Also checked front spark plug and it was basically same as i left it.

Should be 8 images below

[Shiby]

Ok so the mixture screw is already set at 3 turns out as when the bike ran before this issue it was perfect mixture, ill pull the carb out and the intake pipes and give em a clean again and send pics, airbox is intact, when the bike runs the tap does release fuel in a small stream, but when tank is disconnected it drips. (when full choke it streams fuel). Now thinking about it if air is restricted (as in not enough air in engine) it would cut out similar to how it did, would the bike run without the air box?, bike is in shed rn, but i heard that dosnt really effect the bike running, the carb slides could effect air intake, its either got less air or less fuel, one of the 2, my rear spark plug the center is white and this was the time when the engine starved fuel.. ill check the front one to see is thats changed.

[Shiby]

Starts on full choke about 2k rpm then goes up to 4k, once at 4 k if given revs it will splutter then sometimes rare occasions catch back on (most of the times it dies when try to rev) and continue to rev, it does not die on full choke but when choke is removed it dies but if I let it go to 2k I will then have to use full throttle or choke to keep the bike alive until it revs back up
Won’t start without full choke
Sound it makes is hmrhmrmhm drdrdr (sputter death sound) even if small touch on throttle.

Fuel sensor is broken but not worried about that right now

Still hardly any fuel in filter

Soo the jets I’ve cleaned them 2 times previously with carb cleaner and compressed air, air passes through all of them fine, what’s the next step if it the jets? Replacing them? Or could it be the passage way in carb that I also tried to clean.

Thanks for the video was very informative
And i see now why it may be the jets, as choke has a different way of sending fuel into the engine
, but still not sure 😕

[Shiby]

Soo took the vacuum pipe off, felt both holes on each intake pipe and feels like they are sucking the same, 1 of them (front cyl) was really dirty but still had suction, reconnected pipes securely and it has suction when feeling it, but not sure how strong the vaccum pipe is supposed be, now the pipe going to tap had suction but really low suction, could hardly feel, was able to get bike started with full choke, only dribbles of fuel in fuel filter. Somehow was able to idle, when given revs it died and fuel filter was fully drained, started it again and was able to give revs after a bit of trying but once again only dribbles of fuel in fuel filter. Now the tap i pulled out the day before and gave it a clean and when removing tank today it did drip a couple drops, the suction part on pump could be blocked, but the fuel line part on pump i used compressed air on before and it passed air through.
Fuel filter is on right way, and pump pipes are on correctly, the large pipes wouldnt really effect the suction right?. Originally the bike didnt have this problem, the bike started fine at one point and would rev if throttle was held open for a while, then after leaving the bike for almost a week waiting for new battery then this issue started to happen 🤔. Bike had no more fuel in filter, so i replaced pipes and filter yet nada. So as im aware there are 2 suction pipes, 1 that connects to tank (i belive helps fuel flow through tap) and the other one that should pretty much power the pump sucking the fuel directly in through the fuel pipe?.
(Also other suction pipe sucks air 👍.)
Rn have about 2l of petrol in tank which i think is fine right?.

[Shiby]

Got new fuel lines and fuel filter, and cleaned tank using vinegar,installed everything, and tried cranking the bike, it cranked but no fuel in fuel filter even after cranking for a while,
Would low compression of, 110 and 90 cause fuel to not flow, or is it something else? Starts on ez start, then dies and still no fuel in fuel filter

[Shiby]

Hmm interesting, the engine was cold when these test were conducted as fuel tank is blocked, is there a way of finding what the exact issue is? And could it be something as simple as valve clearances?, now for this bike i did buy it knowing the risks as it is high mileage and still want to get it running. Now regarding piston rings, couldn’t find any specific for my hyo and would probably be expensive, how would I go around my engine diagnosing this compression issue?, 1 way is to strip it completely, but would take some time.

On the side I will also have to clean the tank ask it did have rust before, not really sure what to use to clean it?
New hoses, already new filter but might aswell switch it out.

[Shiby]

Ok, used the straight metal pole thingy
And got 110 psi rear and 95 on front
Charged Battery it was at 13.6 for this test

[Shiby]

Im back with some mixed info on the bike
Soo compression tester arrived today soo got the bike started with ez start but died within 2m i checked the fuel filter and all fuel was drained from it. So at this point it looks like a fuel issue cuz no matter how much i crank fuel filter is same, so i decided to take of the suction pipe on put my finger on it, it was sucking air or something, a bit on the low side but i wouldnt know how strong the suction is suppose to be, i then took off the tank, and hardly any fuel was dripping from it. I then blowed into filter and could hear clear passageway as in i could hear air go around past filter, i then sprayed ez start in intake again and now starts up like everytime without tank with ez start, now gonna get new fuel lines (seen some on hyoridershop), already have a spare fuel filter. Now how do i go with cleaning the tank properly and clear any blockage?. Also one of my spark plugs the rear one center of it is white, front is tiny bit white. Now the other part, i wasnt able to keep engine running for 10m but ran for about 2 or less at 3k rpm engine was warm but not hot, i then removed both spark plugs, tank is off aswell and cranked on rear i got 75psi and front 65psi throttle on full, now the tester i got is a cheap one from ebay and the thread isnt long as in the thread length is only a quarter long so sits higher then a spark plug. So i don’t know if the reading is correct and the last thing i want is less compression, as the cost would be a lot and i dont think it would be worth it as i bought this bike with my fist paycheck at this job i got around the time so i could use it as a fun commuter bike, it has 23kmiles which is not that bad but it is what it is, is there any other way of testing this? Or confirming, as remember the bike did run at idle and would start up first time not long ago and would rev up nicely if i held the throttle for a couple of secs, and even now with ez start it starts up fine. Compression issue is what i feared after buying this bike really hoping it aint..

[Shiby]

Sprayed carb cleaner on intake pipes and had a look around and nothing, vacuum seems fine over there, Opened the carb up, sprayed air into every hole, removed jets sprayed air in there, everything seems clear, closed carb up and tried starting her, wouldnt start sprayed ez start in intake and she started and kept running, randomly started reving up high to about 7k then to 9k then back down and then again, i let the bike do its thing for a bit as long as it leeps goong back down and not hanging at a high rpm eventually it started going back to 2k but then would rev back up to 3-4k by itself, after waiting for a bit it shut off, wouldnt start unless i used ez start and after getting the engine running again it would only idle at 3k rpm and would die at any under just like before, still waiting on the compression tester to arrive. As the bike was randomly reving up it drank decent amount of fuel the fuel filter usually full of fuel as i look at it, now only quarter full even when bike running.

[Shiby]

Just had the new battery installed, and now she can crank for longer before battery dying, but… now she wont start up first time, i got her started by spraying some ez start in intake. She ran and kept running but anything under 3k revs she dies, does rev up good, responsive revs, after running for a while i turn the engine off and after that engine wont start, i tried spraying more ez start but that wouldnt work, after waiting for like 10-15m i then spray some ez start again and try and she starts and same thing under 3k she dies, i tried cranking with throttle quarter open half and full yet nothing choke down nothing, engine does sound like it wants to start but cant catch on fully, last time the engine was able to idle and after holding throttle for 5s delay it would rev then die when trying to go back to idle, but when originally cranked would idle at 2k, now the thing thats linked to idle would be pilot jet and if blocked it would die at idle right?, but bike should still start if i opened throttle? And the fact that the bike will only start with ez start after leaving it for a while. (Btw did clean carb Before).

[Shiby]

Hi a update on the 06 gt125r

After getting spark i gave her some fuel and cranked, only ran when full choke and full throttle and like 10s of cranking, once idle for a bit then would rev up perfectly but would cut out after some revs when trying to idle again. Decided to clean up carb, once carb was clean reinstalled and tried cranking wouldnt start up… the fuel mixture screw was tampered with before so i decided to give it 2.5 out and cranked it, the bike started first try without use of throttle and was idle good, but when id try give it revs it wouldnt budge unless i held the throttle open for about 5s then it would rev up and rev up perfectly and then idle, but after 2m it would cut out and not start again it would try but wouldnt be able to, i checked the battery and charged, now after multiple attempts apparently this bike will only start at 13.2v and it always cuts out at 13.07v like always at that number, at first i was thinking it may be the carb but after searching online apparently the battery could also cause issues like bike not reving up (mine does rev up but needs throttle on for a couple secs). As the bike only starts at 13.2v and not at 13.07v guessing the battery is at fault and needs replacing?, will buy YUASA YTX 14BS battery as a replacement.

[Shiby]

IT FINALLY SPARKS!!

I decided to have a look at the black and white wire connecting to cdi labelled ground and it was pretty rusty and bad connection when hooked with multimeter to fuel gauge, after cutting and replacing the connector, THE BIKE NOW SPARKS, thank you for helping me fix this issue with my hyo (might not be the only issue as i bought this bike as no spark, so havent tested beyond that)

Regarding the uprated regulator i bought of hyoriders shop, i cant get it to fit even when moving the wiring out of the way, prob just gonna use the old one as the new is massive.

“>http://

[Shiby]

So ive followed the orange and black wire that was broken and it connects to right handle switches. I tested the wire to the nearest connector and got a reading/continuity. I then repaired it (new 2.8m spade connector). Now after installing cable, still no spark. All the switches on the rh seems to work, killswitch stops the starter, starter button cranks the engine, and headlights work. Im not sure on what to do now?. Do the switches need further testing?.

[Shiby]

Oh I see, so this could be the issue, I tried pushing it back in the connector while cranking yet nothing. Any way to test it before i fix it up?, as I have a feeling it may be damaged.

[Shiby]

Hi so I had a look and yes the wire does go in the place I presumed it would, but I’m not sure what it’s for, on wiring diagram it goes to “Engine Stop” and to a photo I seen on the forum apparently “12v ignition” it’s the orange and black wire that goes into the 2 wire connector in the middle of cdi, the wire next to it is black and yellow wire, I was wondering what this wire does and how can I test it before I put it back together as it looks abit burned. Thx

[Shiby]

Im back again, so I’ve installed the stator unit hooked up the wires yet still no spark.

 

But as I was moving stuff around a wire from cdi unit just flicked out as if it was in there but not connected, I believe it leads to killswitch but not sure, it one of the wires of the dual connector on the cdi unit I’ll upload a pic here

https://ibb.co/JRXtzMHx

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