nick1
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Electrolysis works really well for rust removal. For sure check out some videos of the process on YouTube, it will make it easier to understand. Once finished, tip out the solution & rinse the tank out with a bit of unleaded or diesel. Slosh that around so it COATS the ENTIRE INSIDE with fuel & tip it upside down and slosh it around as you pour it out again. This will coat the walls & prevent it from insta-rusting … think they call it flash rust, where the newly cleaned metal starts to oxidise instantly. The oil in the diesel or unleaded will coat the metal and protect it a bit. Can rinse tank with distilled water then rinse with fuel. Should be ok to just rinse it with fuel a couple of times.
I have done the electrolysis recently.
The tank is quite difficult to empty in that there is no clear access into the main tank area from either the fuel filler or from the fuel pump opening. Does anyone have any pointers how to best empty the tank? My mechanic suggested a bit of metho would help to remove the fuel. So I thought I might try tipping in a litre of that into the empty tank, slosh it around, tip out as best I can, then fill with unleaded and add a smaller amount of metho, then run the bike. I haven’t done this yet though.
After tipping the electrolysis mixture out as best I could, I sloshed some diesel around in it, and tipped it out.
There was a lot of black sludge still throughout the tank. So I then tipped 2 litres of white vinegar into it and shook it well. Then I tipped it out, and the vinegar was black.
Then I put some water in it, and shook it well, and tipped the water out. Also black. I repeated this about 7-10 times until the water was coming out reasonably clean.
Unfortunately all through this, there is also small bits of rusty metal coming out with the water.
Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed from here? I could try the electrolysis again, but I think the rust is just trapped in the main tank area, and its difficult to tip it out.
Thanks
G’day Nick1. Nice bike. Love that colour. What is the name of the Dealership you use? It is good they still help you. I can only buy parts from HyosungAU. No dealer here will even look at my bike. They won’t help with simple questions & they hold Hyosungs in such little regard, it makes me want to break-in to their shop at night & wheel some stuff out. I buy parts from HyosungAU mostly & they are ok. Got a couple of wrong parts but they refunded me. I’d love a dealer & a mechanic to look at it when i can’t be bothered. It’s been hot here. https://www.hyosungpartsau.com/ (Genuine parts to your door) The rust in the tank is easy to fix. My GT250R also had rust. I’m yet to fix it as there are more important issues with the bike, like NO FRONT BRAKES. Just fixed that; riding is much more fun when you can stop the bike. I will do a photo tutorial of rust removal someday. Take the tank off, empty the fuel out & temporarily SEAL-UP any place the fuel can drain out from under tank, (fuel petcock). Pour a mixture of water (i’ll use distilled/demineralised water) & a pH Increaser (used for swimming pools) into the tank; fill it to the near the top of your fuel cap hole. Then connect a BATTERY, like a car battery, to the tank & to a piece of metal like a big allen key or steel rod, (that is small enough to fit INSIDE the tank WITHOUT TOUCHING the metal of the tank). You suspend this allen key in non-conducting material, over the fuel cap hole, so the metal is touching the solution isnide the tank but not the tank itself, (will advise on postive & negative location, i can’t recall). Once the battery is connected correctly, current will flow through the solution in the tank & ALL THE RUST will leave the WALLS of the TANK & attach itself to the sacrificial allen key or steel rod that is inserted into the fuel tank. If your rust is heavy it may take all night & a reapeat with clean solution & maybe a fresh allen key. If your rust is not that bad this process will only take 2 hours to 3 hours i think. To keep the car battery from running flat, connect a battery charger to the battery for the duration of the process. CAUTION! Don’t leave this running without checking on it. The solution starts to bubble & there will be movement in the solution. The biggest danger is the metal rod or Allen Key touching the metal of the tank, which will spark & make the fuel tank live. So you can get a zap from it. Good idea to KEEP MONITIORING IT & to DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE LEAD from the battery before you touch the tank.
Thanks Laserbeam, I use Les Penna Motorcycles in Bendigo, Victoria.
I will give this a go, thanks for the info.
It was years ago, I dont know, 5+ years ago. They were imported into Australia by i think PS importers, it wasn’t Hyosung direct, and PS Importers pulled the pin. Not sure why.
About 2018 by the looks of it https://www.bikesales.com.au/editorial/details/the-end-of-the-road-for-hyosung-112328/
Definitely wont be respraying it, i agree it was the best colour.
My bike has actually taken a fair bit of (arguable) abuse. It has been ridden hard and fast on lots of rough gravel and dirt roads, and handled it beautifully. The only relevant issues I have had there are fork seals needed replacing, and also the dirt wore out the pully teeth and belt.
I was fortunate that I live local to a fantastic Hyosung dealer who look after their customers well, so despite not being overly mechanically minded, I have had the backing of them. It would appear that many of the other dealers are shockers. Hyosung have pulled out of Australia, however my dealership still look after Hyosung bikes and have some parts in stock.
