Eyong
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I’d been experiencing clutch problems with my GV 250 for a while. When the engine wasn’t running, the gears shifted smoothly, but once the engine was running, shifting became extremely difficult.
I removed the clutch plates and measured their thickness. The platens on the clutch basket had left slight marks, so I lightly sanded them to prevent them from binding.
After reassembling the system, I observed that when I squeezed the lever, the outermost platen separated from the basket, but the clutch plate and plates stuck together and didn’t separate.
I removed the plates and plates again, cleaned them thoroughly with brake pad spray, and dried them. I placed a glass window on the table and placed 240-grit sandpaper on the glass. I laid the clutch plates horizontally on the sandpaper and slowly sanded both surfaces.
The clutch plates were 2.9 mm thick. I cleaned and dried them again with brake pad spray and compressed air.
I also lightly sanded the clutch metal sheets using the same method with 400-grit sandpaper. My goal was to reduce the vacuum and sticking effect between the plates and the sheets.
I reassembled the system, added oil, and started the engine. The gears are much smoother than before. I’m happy with it so far, and I wanted to let anyone know if they’re experiencing similar issues.
One more thing:
It was quite difficult to find neutral between 1st and 2nd gears. I wanted to remove and check the neutral cam stopper shaft and spring. When I removed the plug, I found the spring was missing.
I think someone thought it was an oil plug during a previous oil change, removed it, drained the oil, and forgot to put the spring back. I installed a suitable spring, and now 1N and 2N gears are perfect.
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
The bearing is the same on both sides. I took a video while disassembling it, so I can see its orientation.
The rounder side is the inward-facing surface that fits the shaft. The outward-facing surface that fits the washer is sharper.
Those who can’t find engine gaskets in their country or region can do the same as I did. You can buy a sheet of klingird casket and carefully cut the gasket yourself.
Hi everybody. 17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001) The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
The bearings on both sides are not the same, so I’ll take a close-up photo and upload it. I took a video while disassembling it, and I can see its orientation there.
The inward-facing surface, which fits the shaft, is slightly rounded. The outward-facing surface, which fits the washer, is sharper.
Those who can’t find engine gaskets in their country or region can do the same as I did. You can buy a sheet of klingird casket and carefully cut the gasket yourself.
Hi everybody.
17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001)
The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
That silver metal bracket is used on GV250 EFi and Carby. Ignore those 2 holes. It is for “idle adjuster cable hook” for carb models.
Very thanks.
Hello everyone again,
I have a similar question, but I wanted to ask it here rather than start a new thread.
There is no connection on my engine in the place shown in the photo. What is the normal mounting point here?
Hey, you can ignore it if the bikee is working normally. That is for dealer diagnostics or official hyosung scan tool (expensive and only given to dealers) , normally that 4 pin plug is hidden away in a rubber shield. So make sure that loose wire does not cause sparks or shorting!
Thanks for reply.
But I put a relay in this socket to see what it was for and then removed it. I hope I didn’t damage it.
Why would they make the diagnostic tool connection the same type as a relay socket? 🙂
Thanks again.
