Clayr
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The tip Over Sensor is directly where the battery is , that yellow bar where your fuel tank sits on, unless it got bypassed.
I might be blind cause I haven’t seen it…
Could you tell me which code this is? I’m reading the manual and I’m not seeing a code for 10-5-10-5-10 or 1-7-1. This is how the F1 is flashing after flicking the switch 3 times
Is there a chance of stripping the bike again and looking for any burn marks along the harness ? also where cables bend at the steering head + under the seat, look for fraying / chaffing ? Check the sprocket cover and see if magneto cables have any fray or chaffing ? If the Right Hand Switch Gear works (all buttons) , you wont need a meter on there, but make sure its black connector under the airbox is clean from any rust , debris etc that might disturb the signals , as the ECU does use the Kill Switch to communicate error codes to the dash when user flicks it 3 times fast before starting. Since you can get a contact cleaner and air spray, spare a day where you can clean every single socket you can find on the bike and let it dry overnight. ⚠️ Don’t spray contact cleaner on the ECU! – Only dry air allowed. You can clean the ECU plugs though, it will help with reducing some resistance from pin oxidization, so cleaner signals can pass through. Just make sure its been 24hrs before connecting all your sensors back, so it is fully dried out. it is still spring season, so air is still a bit damp to ride away immediately. 12.5V is OK but 12.8V is a charged battery Running Idle = 13.5-14.5v max 5,000 revs = 14.5V max Any higher , bin the regulator but becareful with TEMU style regulators , they will smoke the bike in minutes , just look at the last post here
Bike won’t fire cold but it fires once working = GT250R 2012
All the wires beneath the seat look fine. (As they’re wrapped in electrical tape for the most part.) Only thing of note is that the cable cover the comes out of the right assembly is bent very strongly. I’ll try the ECU thing in a few hours, will it be able to asses electrical issues? I really thought it’d be the lead wire messing with the ignition. I also checked for a tip over sensor and couldn’t find it for the life of me. + I tried unplugging the kickstand switch and starting, nothing. At least there are a few more things to rule out.
In the morning, I’ll attach photos of the ECU connector, solenoid to battery connections, and the connectors under the front left and right air intake fairings. Please let me know if there’s any other photos that might be helpful.
Nabbed myself a multimeter and a few connectors incase anything was corroded. I was using the Ω setting to check the plugs for continuity (or something, I don’t the proper lingo.) The battery reads around 12.5 volts, I’m not sure if it’s supposed to read 12.8 volts since it’s not fully charged. I started with the red bullet connector on the lead wire and it’s working. Next I tested the solenoid which read the same voltage as the battery. I don’t think I tested the starter motor properly. I put one probe on the (+) of the solenoid and the other (-) on the starter motor. I’ll be honest, I have no idea what it was suppose to read. (I did get voltage from it) After that, I took off the right air intake fairing and found where the right assembly connects to the harness and checked each connection. Am I using this multimeter right? At this point, I have it set to the continuity beeper. Should I be touching the male and female connections with the probes at the same time or should I be checking a single cable at a time with both probes? Also when I was checking the connections on the voltage rectifier, there was a spark and it blew my 30A fuse. 🙁 I had a replacement one and the bike turned on fine. Finally, I jumped the solenoid and did a lap around 250ft. The bike was clunky and the fuel pump was priming the entire time. (Which is new D:) When I went to park it, I pulled the clutch in and the engine died, probably because of the fuel pump. I feel like I’m making it worse but I don’t know if I can get it to the local shop. Any ideas?
Have you taken the tank off to inspect the harness for any signs of shorting or wiring burns ? Was there any chance the old regulator likely popped one of the electrics ? Horn is triggered by the left switch gear, disconnect it and see. While it is apart, attempt to download the service manual on this forum , so it gives you instructions on getting an error code from the ecu (red icon will flash in a sequence which tells the error) Check your neutral switch and clutch switch contacts/plugs = they would stop the bike from starting. A bike violently loosing power with the horn blaring loud suggests either electric spike or a shorting somewhere but that is new to me also, all my years of dealing with hyosungs (mine and customer ones), this one is strange considering the bike is only 2k miles old. Practically young! ===== Starter is grounded to the frame and battery, so the long cable is the positive from the solenoid yes.
Might be worth mentioning that the bike sat indoors for about two or three years also the horn sounds off fine now. I’ve been looking at the wiring for the past few days and I haven’t seen anything my might indicate frying. I can try replacing the battery cables cause I really don’t want to have to replace the whole harness.
