Upgraded regulator rectifier and stator
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Bike Model = : gv650 2006
Hello i just upgraded my regulator rectifier and stator, i bought the bundle package from the web shop, now that i have installed it the fuse keep bursting when i took the plug out that connects to the battery nothing happened and the voltage from the rectifier measured 14.9v but as soon as i plugged it in the fuse burst, i have no idea what the voltage output should be, i just want to be sure that it is not the brand new rectifier that is shut, any ideas on how to diagnose it?
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Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin.
One is for stator sensor
One is for reg to harness
Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery.
14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual.
Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot!
Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGMÂ battery is used (no lithiums)
Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
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Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin. One is for stator sensor One is for reg to harness Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery. 14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual. Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot! Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGM battery is used (no lithiums) Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
how do i test it again? I am located in the faroe islands, is there a way for me to test it here instead of sending it back to the uk?
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Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin. One is for stator sensor One is for reg to harness Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery. 14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual. Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot! Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGM battery is used (no lithiums) Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
i have not tried the bulbs yet, but here is the thing, i have a brand new agm battery with the regulator rectifier upgrade kit, i tried laying new cables directly to the battery from the regulator harness, the fuse burst once i started it, but before that the fuse was alright, and when i disconnect the harness from the motorcycle itself nothing happens to the fuse, but as soon as i reconnect the harness to the rest of the wiring loom it bursts right away
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It sounds like your harness may be the one that’s shorting somewhere along the cable or a part is frayed bad causing it to cause instant shorts.
You will have to end up going through a painful process of stripping the harness down , checking every wire and then rew-wrapping the harness after you find or fix any faults you may discover. We don’t know if other parts on the bike are fried ?
Sounds like the fuse is doing its job bursting before it cooks anything attached to the harness ie. dashboard , coils, engine black box, speed sensor etc, they use 12v as soon as key turns on.
The engine black box is the most difficult to replace, so leave it disconnected. Even the starter motor relay has permanent 12v even if your keys are OFF, only the CDI + right switch handle triggers it to go and spin the starter motor , the 12V signal to the regulator is always live even if bike is OFF, regulator won’t do anything until the stator sends AC power to it and then it converts it to DC to charge the battery. Retrograding from the harness itself is rare but happens.
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Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin. One is for stator sensor One is for reg to harness Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery. 14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual. Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot! Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGM battery is used (no lithiums) Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
just a follow up question, those 14.5 to 15 volts, are they at 5k rpm or idling? Because mine showed 14.9 when it was idling
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Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin. One is for stator sensor One is for reg to harness Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery. 14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual. Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot! Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGM battery is used (no lithiums) Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
just a follow up question, those 14.5 to 15 volts, are they at 5k rpm or idling? Because mine showed 14.9 when it was idling
A bit too high 14.9 when idling – Should be 14.0-14.4v – but we can tolerate 14.5-14.6 as normal too.
Hyosung’s limit is 15V so you’re just on the border!
but OEM or Knockoff regulators are just wild = they would jump around from 11.5 to 16V! = 16V is basically time to blow up the battery or cook everything that’s attached to the harness that needs a 12v source.
Check yours again at 5,000 rpm (as per service manual) and tell us ?
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Do you have a short somewhere ? Ie parts of the harness touching the frame or…… 2 plugs are both 2 pin. One is for stator sensor One is for reg to harness Its easy to mix those two up & the harness gets fried or reversed terminals on the battery. 14.5V is usually the norm but 15V is Hyosungs limit as per manual. Disconnect your lights and see if bulbs affected them? I replaced my 4yr old bulb 3 days ago as the resistance grew so much the wires got too hot! Happy to test your reg again if you want to be extra sure as i did promise warranties provided the bike doesnt cook either the stator or reg & a new AGM battery is used (no lithiums) Confirm stator makes 65v-85v at 5k revs on each yellow wire via AC (service manual pn forum has tutorial) with reg unplugged?
just a follow up question, those 14.5 to 15 volts, are they at 5k rpm or idling? Because mine showed 14.9 when it was idling
A bit too high 14.9 when idling – Should be 14.0-14.4v but OEM or Knockoff regulators are just wild. Check again at 5,000 rpm (as per service manual) and tell us ?
i have the regulator rectifier upgrade kit from the web shop here, u bought both the stator and the rectifier, u have not been able to drive with it yet because i cannot find the short, so i was thinking maybe something was off there since it showed 14.9 v when idling and i have seen people talking about measuring it all from 5000rpm
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Sorry , I edited my reply to say this:
A bit too high 14.9 when idling – Should be 14.0-14.4v – but we can tolerate 14.5-14.6 as normal too.
Hyosung’s limit is 15V so you’re just on the border!
but OEM or Knockoff regulators are just wild = they would jump around from 11.5 to 16V! = 16V is basically time to blow up the battery or cook everything that’s attached to the harness that needs a 12v source.
Check yours again at 5,000 rpm (as per service manual) and tell us ?
I just seen your new reply now, i would check at 5k rpm and advise ?
Find out if voltage changes at the battery side when turning on the lights on/off , since these are 55 watts right out of the gate.
Since you have a brand new stator , the stator unit should be OK otherwise the bike wouldn’t start =A bike won’t start if its the wrong stator due to different pulse timing dots on the flywheel.
Also when the bike is running ===> disconnect the regulator , and disconnect only the “yellow” stator plug.
Measure at 5,000 rpm at the stator itself
Pin 1 – Pin 2 = Volts AC
Pin 1 – Pin 3 = Volts AC
Pin 3 – Pin 2 = Volt ACThis way we can check each yellow wire how much voltage in AC is being output at 5,000 rpm so we can fully rule out a new stator.
Then we progress further in to the harness itself if there is something on the harness or some kind of part attached to the harness that’s causing things to go haywire.
As long as the stator is feeding AC power in to the regulator itself ==> Disconnect the regulator from the harness and measure its 2PIN plug  in DC , this should be between 14-15V DC  , 13.5V DC would be Hyosung’s absolute acceptable lowest charging rate (less AC power when idling ofcourse)
Keep the yellow plug connected to the regulator , we’re just measuring the regulator’s 2Pin DC output once it takes the stators AC energy from the yellow wires.
I hope i made sense ? If not , let me know!
My bike loves to charge at 14.2V despite having the same kit as you , but it does the job, i would love to have 14.5V , but alas , its 14.2V all day , in any revs and has been that way for a few years now so i’ve yet to change the stator , it’s not bothering anyone.  When i turn the lights OFF (removed the bulb!), then i see a big spike at 14.7V and stays there all day long.
So personally myself i have an achingly long job over the winter to strip the entire bike down to get to its harness and repair it and give it some nice TLC with ACF50 around its plugs , as to be fair some connectors near the front of the bike have oxidized a little bit (stupid wintry northern freezing wet climate! – I envy Australians)
Believe it or not , in July 2025 , i could not start the bike as the battery was 11V as soon as the key turned on (headlight is permanent ON for later models of the GT series bikes) , and i went under the bike , the headlight wires where burning my hands! – If i disconnect the bulb , she starts flawlessly , but connected them when running made the issue worse, i was flabber gasted – I tested the battery with a YUASA Load Meter (it does a deeper dive to verify battery is OK or not) , it was fine, mind you this was a YUASA battery which brand i trust the most and it was 3yrs old without fail , i swapped regulators again, same issue.
So in the end i replaced the bulb and got a new battery too. As the bulb was killing the battery other than the charging system. I wasted ÂŁ120 all because of a bulb! – Mind you, this was 6 month old bulb too , so i made sure to get another one that isn’t “defective” / “bad batch” , excuse the quotes.  I went back to my old regulator that’s always been good to me, and we are back to 14.2V (not a great number but ugh… old harness needs love eventually) and new battery , starts everytime now.
So i will make a routine to touch my headlight wires every now and then , and i also put a volt meter mod above the dashboard , that’s how i know the voltage is whenever i am with the bike. Great mod.  Just tap in to your “side little bulb” inside your headlight and don’t cut the wires.  Just copy the plug , make a “male – female” bridge
in the end [side light little bulb]–>female end–> (start of male mini bridge) with wires going to the volt meter–>female end of mini bridge) –> male end of the main bike harness.  That way i can disconnect it at will and stays inside the headlight shell away from any water / nature attacks. Knowing Hyosung isnt making any harnesses for GT bikes (discontinued model) , best to preserve it.
I am digressing sorry , hope you had some ideas of checking for unusual power robbing along the harness too.
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