[Guide] Intake boot manifold removal GV125C / GV250 Carby (Air Box Tutorial)
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Hi everyone, Thought i’d do a little more of a comprehensive guide on intake boot removal with some pictures and video. It’s not actually all that difficult but there’s a few things that you’ll need to be able to do it easily.
What you’ll need:
10mm socket (for the tank)
12mm Socket (for the coil and airbox brackets)
JIS PH1 and PH2 (for the airbox clamps, choke cable and idle adjustment cable)
A Short h5 and T30H bit (That’s a Torx 30 security bit, h standing for ‘hole’ that is in the centre of the tip) [you can use standard security bits but you’d have a nicer time with shorter ones.]
A super short ratchet for the clamps and to help release the screws from the head https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005C45QKI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
A clean set of rags to plug the intake (I used a pair of socks)
A small slotted screwdriver
Time, Calm and PatienceHow to:
First remove the seat, covers, tank and loosen the bolts for the airbox and coil brackets.
Loosen the clamps for the air filter box, remove it and remove the hose that connects the air filter to the airbox above the carbs. (I didn’t do at the begining but when I removed the airbox I had to remove it)
remove the idle speed control screw from the coil bracket. (If you’re lucky you’ll be able to remove it from the bracket using the phillips screw. In my case, because the screw had frozen and i stripped it trying; i had to remove it from the carb by turning the idle adjustment until the cable came away. If you’re to do it my way make sure you keep the spring safe, it can fall off and be lost)
Remove the HT lead from the rear cylinder and set the bracket to the side. If you still have the AIS system in place, remove the hoses for that and gently move everything to the side, we need quite a bit of room.
Remove the fuel inlet for the carbs, that is the big hose that goes from the fuel pump to the carbs themselves.
Next start disassembling the vacumm hoses from the intake boots. this doesn’t need to be excessive, just splitting the hose in the middle and removing the larger feed hose for the pump should be enough. We just want both intake boots to be able to be moved independant of each other.
Next we’ll want to remove the little black carb drain hoses, I found them a little hard to remove but a small slotted screwdriver to free up the clamp was all that was needed and then they popped off.Now the big stuff starts happening, take your time here, don’t rush and if something doesn’t seem right, it probably isn’t. take a step back and have a think if you find it’s getting harder than it seems it should be.this is the point if you decide to continue. Any issues here could potentially mean you may need someone with more skill to take over or that you’re not going to safely be able to do it without damaging something.
First we want to loosen the clamps off the top of the intake boots. this can be quite difficult if the bike hasn’t been touched before. The clamps for me were put in such a position that I couldn’t reach them properly with a normal driver, i thought i could continue but I then found the driver i was going to use for the bolts for the boots themselves were way too big and wouldn’t have fitted either so I stopped at this point for a few days while i got a mini-ratchet.
Now it’s time to mess with the 4 bolts (the 2 torx and 2 h5 bolts) attaching the intake boots to the head. All we need to do is get them loose at this point, we’re not intending to remove them yet. my reasoning is that if there is a bolt stuck to the boot, the other bolt would give some rigidity without flexing the boot.
I still had a fight getting everything to fit, but I found i was just about able to get them loose.
Once all 4 bolts are loose and the clamps are loose, we are ready to continue to the next step.
at this point you should be able to use your hands to remove the bolts, so on the front cylinder remove the bolts making a note of where they were fitted (they’re different lengths!) and gently see if the base is able to be moved, if it is, then you can slide the boot gently towards yourself and the middle of the engine. using a little downward pressure on the top of the boot to get it to unseat from the carb. then it’ll slide off into the V. Keep an eye on where the vaccum nipple is, it is possible to scar the other boot with it.
Now you should have removed the front intake boot. once they’re off plug the intake with a clean cloth to prevent things falling into it.Heres a video on me removing the front
The rear is a similar process, slide it gently across into the V and it should slide away from the carb, it shouldn’t be difficult to do.
Hopefully that has helped people to remove their intake boots safely. the next thing i’ll be doing is cleaning the carbs. I’ve just had a stab at removing some of the screws but they’re all frozen haha, i’ll have a bit more of a go of it tomorrow or so.
Thanks everyone 🙂
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