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New Fuel Lines ? Let’s cut to the chase….
(No pun intended!)

This topic intends to show you how to swap your stock lines to larger uprated braided ones.
(By the way if your STOCK/ORIGINAL fuel lines are 2-4yrs old , you must change them regardless – As per service manual)

A. *️⃣  Pros / Cons of the braided / fresh ones vs old stock lines ?

• Larger fuel filters (3x size) benefit from a gravity assist (& a cleaner reserve). Such filters of this size last about 15-20K miles (except china)
• Braided hoses last more years & are more heat resistant than the basic skinny lines. (40-100*c)
• Carbs are less likely to wait for fuel delivery as bigger lines flow more fluid faster.
• As the bike gets more fuel = It is slightly more spirited through the gears.
  (Hint = Aftermarket exhausts will have a *very slightly* deeper exhaust note)
• If you have bigger jets installed on the bike, bigger lines help.
• Cons: None.

Be warned. Chinese fuel lines are very cheap, but why pay twice (don’t last even 1-2yrs) or risk fuel leaks on a hot engine!?

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B. 🏍 What bikes does this work on?

• All carb models of GT125R & Carby GT250Rs
  (Carburetors = That huge silver device between the two v-twin engines)
• Naked GT Comet Bikes
  (If unsure, just comment on this topic!)

C. 🔧 Tools required:

• A Cutting tool … & … a flat ( – ) screwdriver.
• Size 10mm / 12mm spanner or socket.
• “Stubby /Shortie” ( + ) Plus screwdriver
• A clean cloth or a towel rag.

🚧 DISCLAIMER: THIS SHOULD BE DONE IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA OR OUTDOOR (FUEL VAPOR!)
FOLLOW THIS GUIDE AT YOUR OWN GOOD COMPETENCE & UNDERSTAND THAT CUSTOM PARTS “MAY” VOID YOUR WARRANTY ON NEW BIKES! 🚧

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1. Let’s begin! – Remove your fuel tank.

• Grab a size 10/12mm spanner or socket & unscrew the bolt that is holding the tank to the frame.
• Afterwards, disconnect the 2 pipes under your Tank.
• Then, put the tank away elsewhere for now.
  ⚠️ Watch out for the “Fuel Level Sensor” wire too! –> BE SLOW & UNPLUG IT! ⚠️

 

2. The Air Box comes off next!

• Unscrew the bolts which are marked in the pictures below…
• 🔩 2x bolts = airbox-to-carb metal clamps (black color)
• 🔩 2x bolts = airbox-to-frame (Click for larger size images)

 

3. Your bike should be exposed like this now

 

4. Change the “CARB -> TO -> PUMP ” fuel line

• A. Remove the hose that connects the carburetor to the fuel pump (at rear)
• B. Replace it with a NEW LINE (Swap Old Line for New Line)

– – Remember, keep the fuel lines nice & straight! – –
– – ANOTHER SHOUT = TIGHTEN CLAMPS TO PREVENT FUEL LEAKS! —

 

5. A Finished Example = Carb to Pump

 

 

6. Ditch your old filter & old lines in the bin!🚮
🚧 NOTE = FUEL MAY SPILL OUT FROM THE OLD FILTER…
{⚠️COVER YOUR ELECTRICS!}

 

7. Grab your new filter & cut 2 new *short* pipes!

• Make sure you use strong clamps to prevent leaks
• Use the cartoon image to help you orient the filter the right way

 

8. Ready? Install the filter to the rear pump!
(Keep the fuel lines nice & short! = No kinks!)

 

9.  Refit your AirBox back on the bike.

• So go back up ^  to step #2 above  and fit your airbox back on the bike!
• Take your time & tighten all airbox bolts to prevent AIR LEAKS !

 

10.   Last step! Time to fit the tank now.

• Use the images below as a guide to connect the final 2 pipes. (Fuel & Air-Vacuum lines)
• Don’t forget to also connect your “Electrical Fuel Level Sensor”  (white plug)
• Once the pipes & wires are connected,  secure the tank to the bike.
• Tidy up & grab a helmet!

 

 

Go ride the bike! 🏁

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Sidenotes / Q&A 🎳 :

1. My filter has low fuel levels in it. Why?
Check that your filter is installed the right direction.

2. The filter looks good , but it is still low in fuel. Do I Top-up?
Top up your tank.  Low fuel levels make trips harder.

3.  I am getting HIGH Revs on idle, what happened ?
There is an air leak near the airbox or carburetors, so make sure all bolts are tight.
(That also includes metal clamps under the airbox too!)

4.  The Airbox is fine, but the revs are still high!
Check your choke lever  (it is next to your clutch lever) .  To turn off the CHOKE , slide it towards the front tyre.

5. The bike won’t start after changing the fuel lines….?
Check that you connected the pipes the right way & filter is the right direction.
It takes about 2 extra seconds to crank the bike after changing lines.
Here is a hint: when the bike cranks over (starting up),  you will see fuel drip in to the filter!

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The end!🎲
If you have any questions  or get stuck,  just reply to this topic.   I hope this guide helps you!

Credits 📜:
Images (@Danny.M) // YouTube Video(@Luke.B)