Reply To: Gt125 naked 2016
Welcome Stu!
Post a picture of your ride here -> https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/owners-photography-thread-new-rider-show-off-your-ride/
To answer the 520 part, yes what you see on this website’s store is generally self-fitting (meaning yourself, some correct tools and skill level depends on your confidence to take certain things off and put them back exactly the same way back) but a garage can definitely do it. However, i would caution and watch what they are doing, it has come to my attention via private communications my clients have had mechs take silly shortcuts or can’t be arsed to work on hyo cause its Chinese (really ?) and they half-arse the job , thus meaning what ever mods they fitted became quickly pointless if the bike behaves worse than it did before.
Speaking of behavior, let’s assume you are a brand new owner and bike is total blind buy (no history whatsoever or last owners lied etc), so to make it a good “standard” bike , can these be done at your end (trust me, the hyosung will really appreciate you for it)
– Full tank flush and put e5 , cause e10 is from hell.
- Carb = Ultrasonic clean , Rebuild it (with this kit) , do the slide mod (click here), check jets are okay (here)
Standard Jets are OK, if there is no air intake mods or exhaust mods. I am assuming this bike has zero modifications? - Do not mess with the mixtures. Only thing you have to do is allow the carb to someone ultrasonic clean it, because sometimes rattle cans don’t always get the job done or be ready to go through at least 4L of rattle cans just to really assure the carb is cleaned, remember it has many holes inside , not just jets.
When i deal with customer carbs , i use air compressor (as korea advises) and liquid cleaning ofcourse in a bath. Neither a garage should not mess with the mixtures UNLESS they have experience with a BDS26 carb and a Hyosung GT125. Just because they know other 125s doesn’t mean the hyosung will behave the same way inregards to them messing with the mixtures - Go (here) and look for the picture of float height, make sure it is certain. Also, read that topic i just linked in this sentence as it has some back and forth chatter which can help you diagnose other potential running issues. The lad in that topic may have a 2003 Naked 125 but they have the same carbs and same engines.
- Before opening a carb, make sure to get “JIS” screwdrivers. I can’t stress it. Normal UK Made or Chinese made philips (+) drivers WILL ALWAYS ROUND IT OFF. Sorry for the caps , it can get frustrating later so JIS screwdriver set is a good must. I use a set fron USPRO , they are great!
- Head over to the shop of this website and get yourself some stainless bolts! For both top and bottom. You won’t regret it.
- Just looking around the hyosung it is almost a consensus for everyone now to use stainless fasteners or titanium all over the bike. Pricy? Yes. But its not just for looks , the maintanenance of the bike will be a lot better in general.
The only thing that can stay standard is the axles for the wheels and mono shock linkage parts. It is not a good idea to go stainless on axles. I dare not digress. - Putoline race grease (apply it on ANYTHING that moves) –> except Wires! & brake discs!
- Wires = Every single plug that exists on the bike –> use a little drop of acf50 on them. This every biker’s “must” do list, UK is salty and weather likes to rust exposed things given the chance!
- Copper Grease = back of pads , on the fork bolts near the bottom of the bike, mudguard bolts, things that look like they will seized under constant water attacks which is usually the areas where wheels are.
The is NO need to apply copper slip on the AXLE BAR NUT on the rear wheel. No need
Apply copper grease on ALL fairing bolts or Go Stainless.
Moving on…..
- Clutch = Overhaul it (especially if its beyond 4k miles from new, it tends to be forgotten about. HP passes through the clutch before spinning the back wheel, so you want the clutch to stay punchy)
- Gearbox and many parts inside the motor = Use Motul 7100 or Silkolene Comp 4 forever. These 2 brands forever. No matter what sales man tells you in his bike shop, they are not that slick to sell crappy Castrols (no pun intended). The service manual says use costly oil if you can (premium) if bike has a harder life which the 125 generally does compared to a 650.
- Compression Test = A garage can do this within 5 mins , please get it done and tell us the figures.
- Clearances check = A garage must only do this below….
– – Open the valve tops of each engine.
– – Open the “Timing Viewer” hole , he spins to “F” mark = Front Engine
– – Spin 10 times the crank.
– – Put a feeler gauge and write clearance values for front engine. Dont pay him if he can’t provide this info.Repeat for rear engine.Come back to this forum and let us know the clearancesBelieve it or not, clearances are almost 50% (if not the main cause) of poor starts, hard to tune the carbs due tight valves, slower top speed if valves are too loose, engine is generally louder if valves are loose in terms of clearances under heavy load, and it goes on. Good news if the clearances are good, then you don’t have to worry about costly garage bill to do it!
I could go on , but you have only just joined so sorry if this overwhelmed you, knock off what i said above ^ , one by one , and if she is a super well behaved standard bike, then pimping her “mod wise” will be easier to advise on what benefits what and to save you some cash where possible. Some silly mods on in the internet are placebo effect (like the infamous CDI cheat on Hyo 125s which is silly but a stronger electric system will be noticeable instead, the CDI isn’t restricted whatsoever, so this is just an example)
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
