John
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Thank you both Simon and MARCEL for confirming.
Don’t understand why they don’t broaden the years on the listings though. Would make things a bit easier.
Regards,
John.
I borrowed one from a mate but just had no room to move it once its located so i used a drift and a hammer and tapped the lock nut loose and tapped the nut down to stiffen the spring.
Bit crude i know but did it in like 5 mins and i still have all the skin on my knuckles 😀
Not had much time to do much with the bike and that includes riding it but what i have done so far is, temp removed the pipes from the egr/ais. just disconnected them and plugged the hoses with bolts for now just to see what difference it made.
The result is deeper exhaust tone and slightly better throttle response but a little flat spot mid range but nowhere near as bad.
Fitted a race NRP straight through race can fully open. Wound out the co screws 3.5 turns rear and 3 turns for the front.
Cutting out problem now happens after 1 mile at full throttle. Seems the float bowls cannot fill up quick enough with fuel used over 60 mph.
50 mph and below the bike performs well with no cutting out.
Weather is getting colder so il strip the carbs off completely (re-jet), blank the egr and fit bigger fuel hoses and filter, might even fit a low pressure electric fuel pump if needs be?
I like the bike but if these issues persist il have to revive my 1994 Fireblade 😀
Thanks again Marcel very informative as usual.
I am going to make the most of the good weather this as im using it daily but time permitting i may whip the carbs off and have a look inside and give them a clean at least.
Will update this post when i have more info.
John.
Hi Marcel,
Thanks again for being very informative as usual.
I think before i start buying any parts i shall strip the bike first just to see what if anything has already been done because i checked today and the EGR/AiS has a blanking plate already installed so now im thinking this bike may have an inherent problem.
The other thing i was thinking about was to remove the vacuum petcock valve and replace it with a simple on/off tap? Has anyone tried this before?
My mates YZF 125 has much better low down torque than my twin which is disappointing tbh because i thought the twin would of had more grunt.
One other thing, i read a post somewhere a few weeks ago (from memory so bare with me) where they cut a green wire on the cdi unit on a 250GTR to give the plugs more power. Think it was something to do with stopping the power dropping once started or something. If that is the case that would explain why my bike has a snappy throttle from start for about 10 or 20 seconds then it just goes into lethargic mode.
Thanks,
John.
Hi Marcel,
Thank you for the very informative list of checks to do and possibilities.
As soon as i get a free hour or two i shall remove the carbs and start with those because i noticed now its cooler sometimes the bike will start with no choke at all and sometimes it needs 3/4 choke but will never start with full choke. Also sometimes the idle can be 2k rpm then after a blast it sits at 2.5k so very irregular. When i first got the bike it was set to 2k rpm idle so i dropped it 1.5k but it didn’t like that so put it back to 2k.
Feels flat sometimes, like its under-fueling. First start snappy throttle but after 20 secs feels restricted and flat.
One more question. Do these bikes have some sort of EGR system and/or a restrictor of some sort (oxi cat?) in the exhaust. Reason i ask is because it feels as though it’s not breathing properly, the end can is actually bronze in colour now like its getting too hot. The bike goes but you have to wind it up.
Thanks again,
John.
Lack of snappy throttle can just mean the carb needs a nice ultrasonic clean once in a while, it really pays off and at least you can find out if the previous did anything suspicious like putting the wrong jets inside which makes a bike a little too rich when its hot. Fortunately, this site has various carb tutorials for carb tune ups. But before you or anyone attempts to open the carbs, please get fresh screws from the shop and discard the old ones. Never reuse old carb screws. Also as it s JAPAN carb, use a Jap screwdriver called “JIS” screwdriver, cause UK drivers will instantly round off the heads. Incase you or your mechanic not aware. Plugs, are always an easy replacement, stock ones work okay, but age or mileage (whichever is first) will make them wane, new ones go a long way. If you look under the bike and you have silver colored pipes, then you have stainless pipes from Black Widow UK , or Scorpion , or MTC (rare) or MotoUnion (too rare, out of business) or even TK ones , they will discolour a bit with heat. It is normal. Hope you enjoying the bike, post the in Tech section if anything comes up. If not, share a picture of her here;
Hi Marcel,
Thank you so much for the info as i wasn’t aware japs had different philips heads to us so i shall have a look for the correct driver.
The exhaust is the standard black one with the standard can on it. I would like a SS system on it just to let the engine breath a bit easier and to unleash that nice V twin sound.
Will get a pic posted of the bike asap.
Thanks,
John.
Hi John, When you start the bike do you use full choke as mine needs it to start even in warm weather(and for the first couple of miles). My exhaust started to colour up too but I changed it for an end can so I can’t say what would happen after a few months, I think that’s normal. My bike has run great for the last couple of rides with no more losing power episodes so I haven’t tried anything else yet. Maybe Marcel or other more experienced owners may have some thoughts on what causes these? All the best, Dave.
Hi Dave,
Some times it needs 3/4 choke and sometimes when sat outside in the sun all day it starts with no choke at all. Choke doesnt seem to alter much tbh. One cool morning it was being hesitant with full, half or quarter choke but once i got going and it warmed up a little it was ok. Over the last couple of days while it has been so warm the bike has performed really well so far. Im a bit hesitant to strip the bike while the weather is so nice while i can use it so il shall keep rolling the dice 😆
Hi Dave, sorry for late reply but thanks for the info.
Did the same trip on the bike yesterday with no issues so a bit weird other than what you mentioned about an air lock maybe.
I also noticed when starting the bike it has instant throttle response then after about 10 seconds its like its flat then yesterday i reved it a couple of times and it was fine all evening. Really strange so i have decided il give it a full service, change all filters and plugs etc and see how it goes.
One other thing i noticed is the exhaust can is a bronze colour like its heat tarnished rather than a silver, is this normal for these bikes?
Thanks, John.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the welcome 🙂
Yeah sorry, was going to post about the glitch in another thread but seeing as you asked, here goes.
So first time out, going up a duel carriageway at 70 mph for about 5 mins and had a loss of power. It was just like it ran out of fuel so i tried to keep it going in gear clutch out but speed was dropping, dropping down the gears in the hope it would wake up but speed still dropping so i moved to my left which is like a tiny hard shoulder section to get off the main carriageway and now im doing 22 mph then it gradually picked up speed as normal and was fine for the remainder of the 60 mile trip.
Now my initial thoughts were a fueling issue because the guy i bought the bike from only had it 4 months and it came with 3/4 of a tank but i have a feeling it might be E10. The bike is a bit sluggish so gear changes are around the 9 – 10k mark and it has this weird flat spot when you roll off the throttle and roll back on.
I have a receipt for the bike being serviced in March this year but i have read all about the bigger jets, coils, plugs etc etc so think this is the route i shall take but failing that a nice 250 motor i understand will go straight in LOL
Other thing i dont like is the harshness of the front suspension but with that said it still has its original tyres on it and i noticed some cracking between the treads however the tyre rubber still feels soft. While on the subject of tyres, is there any reason why my bike is a 2017 but the dates on the tyres are 2015 but no mention on the logbook saying its an import?
Sorry to rattle on but thanks in advance for any info.
Thanks,
John.
