joe farrugia
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That is, yet another version of the Hyosung bike manual. The version of the manual I have which most resembles your GV250 has a 34 pin connector to the ECU and a 5 pin connector for the CAN TOOL instead of the usual 4.
P.S. Just noted that in fact the manual is the same as the one you proposed in the earlier mail.
Those connectors are quite similar to the ones I have which seem to me of good quality. When I refer to cheap connectors I mean this type:
These are ok in areas that don’t see high humidity or moisture but are totally unsuitable on a car; even more on a bike.
I would not recommend conductive paint.
If you are certain that moving the ECU about alters the idling I would try to push/pull each individual wire of the connectors to see if the behavior is replicated. I know this is easier said than done on a bike due to lack of space.
Also liberal use of contact cleaner is suggested but you probably have already tried that.
Incidentally are you sure that your GV250 EFI (2011) is a DSpec version? The electrical diagram in the Dspec manual I have, corresponds exactly to a Delphi ECU (MC05)
On the GT250, the coil for cylinder 1 is mounted just behind the oil cooler at the steering post. The second coil is installed on the inside of the left hand side frame just under the petrol tank. This engine does really get very hot being air cooled. Mine reaches at least 112C when outside temperature is above 30C. However when I put my hands on either coil after a long run I don’t get the impression they get hot at all, at least on the outside. Just bearably warm.
Regarding connectors, my 2013 bike has a mix of connectors installed. The ones installed on the engine electrics including the ECU seem pretty good and water tight. The rest are rather mediocre. They are not water tight at all and not even gold plated. Unfortunately two of these are the connector for the 15A fuse and as well as that for the main relay. The +12V feeding the ECU and the other engine electrics comes off these 2 components which seems rather stupid to me. To make matters worse the wire used to carry this 12V supply seems ridiculously thin to me.
Searching the aliexpress site for “VAG KKL” came up with this: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20220928215901&SearchText=vagkkl&spm=a2g0o.home.1000002.0
I would not spend too much money on this. Also I would not trust bluetooth. Bluetooth seems to work well for audio connections but I have not succeeded in sending or receiving standard data in my experimentation. To connect to the 4 wire connector all you need are 3 wires: +12v, gnd and K-line. I drilled a small hole in the side of the interface and soldered directly to the pins. Pad sizes are large enough so you don’t need to be an expert to do this.
I still cannot attach photos to this forum but if you want to send me your email I can send directly.
The program I suggested works with the Delphi MC05 ECU which was fitted to Hyosung from 2012 onwards. I am not sure if it will work with the DAEWOO version. I suggest you contact the program writer for a more informed reply on this. I have communicated with him several times and he was quite helpful.
Your bike interface is probably K-line but the commands to extract data will probably be different. For example my Kymco bike also has a k-line interface but the commands are totally different. Waking up the ECU is quite standard but then you have to do some reverse engineering to extract useful data from the ECU.
I have replace coil no.1 on my bike and so far it is working well. This is the second time this has happened so am note sure what is causing this coil to fail repeatedly. Note that all the ECU software will probably not help with the problem I had since the ECU does not monitor the spark directly. Its only feedback is from the O2 sensor which will not detect any intermittent failure on the secondary side of the coil.
Regards
The way to tackle data collection depends on whether you are proficient in electronics or not. In either case you will need to download a program freely available on the internet from https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%20Hacker/. This help file is a must read. Further down you will find a link from where to download the actual program. This program is very professionally written and complete. Its only drawback for me is that is works only in windows and since I am a Linux user I opted to write my own using python and that help file.
In terms of hardware you can use the Blue interface cheaply available from Ebay or Aliexpress (search for VAG KKL; cost around €5) and solder a 3 wire wires from inside the interface to a 4 wire connector which goes on the Hyosung. This is an easy job. I had ordered this interface but since it takes 4 or 5 weeks for items from China to come to me, I opted to build my own in the meantime using a standard USB to Serial converter I had around. This would be the black thing to the left of the picture. Both work well.
(Note to the Administrator: for some reason I am unable to attach a photo or even paste a screenshot into my reply. This was not a problem in the past)
Don’t hesitate to contact me if you need help.
Regards
I have not seen an ISC dismantled but from the sound it makes when it is in operation and the fact that the “piston” is fitted to a threaded rod leads me to think that the ISC is a stepper motor with a “nut” fitted to its rotor. As the motor spins clockwise or anticlockwise the “nut” rotates with it, causing the threaded rod to move in or out accordingly. Even though there is a spring which acts to push out the “piston” it is not strong enough to do so. Below is an extract from the manual about the ISC. The manual calls it a solenoid but it does not sound like one.
The reported fault code is a strange one. First of all the manual does not mention any fault code 306. Also that is a fault code from a previous run not this one. I have removed the column containing the current fault code to simplify the chart and in any case because all the entries in that column were zero.
I think the line which indicates an actual misfire is line 102 which shows the RPM dipping to 1515. The injector figures which are actually the time in milliseconds that the injectors remain open seem stable to me and only double right after the engine stalls at around line 111. I think that was a last gasp attempt by the ECU to get the engine to rev up again.
Here is some data I collected from the ECU just before it stalled(rows around 112). The engine temp was about 112 C while the temp at the manifold around 50C.
I also have some question marks about the Idle Speed Controller. According to the manual when the unit is removed from the airbox, the piston should be fully in when key is off and fully out when the key is turned on. In my case it stays closed in both conditions but when i turn the key back off the piston extends for about 2 secs and then retracts completely. I don’t know what to make of this. My logic tells me that the piston should only starts moving out to restrict the air, AFTER the engine has started.
Thank you Simon for your contribution. I will go through all my connections and look for bad contacts. In the past I have replaced one or 2 connectors, the most awkward one being the one just under the steering column which feeds the instrument panel.
However given the fact that the bike starts flawlessly at cold and only exhibit these symptoms after warming up I don’t think bad contacts would cause this particular problem. I would expect to have problems even at cold. I also am able to read all the data coming out of the ECU and am able to display all the parameters for the bike run, in spreadsheet. I have compared data coming out at when running at cold to data coming out just before a stall and I don’t see much difference in the patterns.
regards
Hi,
Just joined and have been reading through this topic since I seem to be facing a similar issue, for the second time.
I own a GT250 EFI 2013 and a few years ago I started facing stalling and misfiring issues roughly after about 15 minutes that the bike is on. I spent may hours trying to diagnose the problem including the replacement of ht cables and plugs, ECU change, and injector cleaning.
In the end the problem were the ignition coils. I started with replacing one which reduced the missing significantly but since I was still getting some misfiring I replaced the second one as well. There were no external signs that any of these were heating up and getting intermittent.
For the past 2 years I have had no further issues but lately it seems the problem is starting to rear its head again though not as significantly. I am assuming it is the coils again but I am somewhat disappointed if the coils fail again after such a short period. I don’t make heavy use of this bike since I prefer my scooter for city riding.
