Jonathan
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Okay another update…
I somehow dropped the bike. The kickstand was down, but I guess not all the way or something because the bike fell. Was not a fun time. Handlebar snapped completely. Ordered replacement ones and installed them onto the forks, back to normal.
Got my dash back. Fi light now turns on and if i turn the key on and off three times, it blinks in a numerical sequence (haven’t recorded the numbers unless i need to?)
I can’t find anyone who can repair my dash, if i buy another dash, won’t the kms be different/random? This dash has 1,200kms only, bike is still a baby. I’d like the dash KMS to be original.
Okay guys, update time!
ECU arrived today, she starts! Took a while because hasn’t been started in 1+ years i’d say but she goes! Rode her, she’s really quick lmao. Needs a good clean cause brakes are sticking and noises etc, but she runs!
I don’t have my dash back, the guy i gave it to is ghosting me. I’m gonna pull up to his house today and pry it from his hands lol. Maybe the ECU could make the dash turn on too? If not, idk what to do because i called every electronic/cluster repair store in my city and none can do it. Some even say it’s unrepairable.
Update: Dropped my dash off to a shop and the guy called me and said there’s 100% something wrong with it, he’s just not found what it is exactly yet. So that’s good news I guess cause that’s one issue solved lol
I’m going to drop my dash off to a guy today. Said $100 to check it out excluding repairs. At least it’ll give me an idea whether the dash is fried or not.
A click sound comes from one of the 4 relays on the back left of the bike when I flick kill switch towards me (im 90% sure main relay)
Thats normal?
I have a new ECU on the way (you’re correct it is delphi). I don’t want to fork out the money for a spare dash. I’ve been searching everywhere for preowned including local and ebay looks like the only option but from America so a bit pricey. Any chance I can 100% rule out the dash being faulty and sending it in for repair? Shop that does it 10 min away from me and said “No fix no charge” so if there isn’t an issue, he won’t charge me I assume? Worth a shot i think.
Will the new ECU fix my no fuel pump priming and no spark problem? I think so right lmfao cause i’ve checked every mechanical part and it’s either new or working including stator and regulator.
The following lights turn on the dash
Left and right turn signals work
Hazards work
High beam
Neutral light
I cannot get the Fi light to turn on for the life of me.
Will a new ECU have any possible relation to fixing the dash? Or should I just go ahead and send it in for repair now?
Took apart the dash and cleaned everything with contact cleaner including the dash plug, no change. I think this concludes that the dash is fried since my red and orange are getting 12.8v each?
Okay, my red wire at the dash plug is always getting 12.8v, my ORANGE wire gets 12.8v only when key is switched to ON position, otherwise it’s not live no volts. I have a two plug cpu. One plug (black plug) has only 1 wire (red) that is getting 12.8v, the other plug (grey plug) has one wire (green with white stripe) getting power but no voltage reading, just lights up to indicate there is power.
Is all of this normal?
I traced down this blue 9 pin plug that goes from the dashboard “mini” harness to the “main” harness and again, only the red wire is getting 12.8v, every other wire including the orange isn’t getting a reading. I’ve circled the pin for the orange wire in the picture attached, am I dumb or does it look a bit “burnt” compared to the rest of the pins? Idk i could be seeing things or it could be useless info.The only wire i’m getting a reading from is the red which is 12.8v? Everything else doesn’t even read.
I’ll take some pictures in a little bit of the dash plug. Some wires you listed such as the high beam light on the dash, indicators, neutral light are getting power, just not the screen and the rpm gauge.
Just did it now as I forgot to do it earlier. Is it the same way as testing the three yellow pins? If so, im reading 128.5 on the ohms setting. Volts is reading 0
Update: Realised I don’t need to take stator off and a simple test using a multimeter should indicate if she’s good. I found a picture from marcel I believe from another topic describing how to test it and after following the steps, my readings on all three pins were 0.3 (see picture below). Also watched a youtube tutorial and put the negative pole of multimeter to negative part of battery and the positive pole of multimeter to each of the three wires and my multimeter stayed on OL which I believe means there’s no short? Judging by these tests, the stator is good right? I can’t do a dynamic test because bike doesn’t run and i’m not sure if 0.3 is the number it should be at (guy on youtube was getting 0.4 so i think i’m okay). Anyways, let me know!Thanks!!
I appreciate the lengthy reply!
Im going to attempt to take my stator apart to see if it looks burnt while I wait for my ECU to come.
Okay, I was working on cosmetic issues today and figured id make a checklist on the issues with the bike while we wait for the ECU.
Headlight fuse has no power to it
Tail light only turns on if i manually put power to the relay. Brake light works regardless
Dash LCD screen doesnt work
High beam light doesnt light up on dash
Spark plugs no spark (brand new spark plugs and ignition coil leads)
Fuel pump not priming (working when i put power to relay)Im pretty sure these are all the issues. Im sure im not gonna plug a new ECU in and its going to fix everything I just listed… right?
G’day Laser,
Ive already placed an order on an ECU. I’ve got a strong feeling that’s the issue. Spoke to the seller aswell and agreed that I can return it if it doesn’t fix my issue as long as he tests it and it’s still working. So no big deal! Worst part now, the waiting game 😫
Okay, i’ve been working on it for 6+ hours today lol, here’s the update:
1- Fi light doesn’t turn on when turning key on and off 3 times with the kill switch in both positions just to make sure. Tried turning it on and off 5 times etc, def just doesn’t work.
2- Followed the “mini” harness from the dash to the “main” harness and all wires seem to look intact. I am yet to test them with a multimeter
3- Opened the dash unit, all looks good. Please see photos attached
4- RPM needle doesn’t move at all when turning key, or attempting to crank etc.
5- Disconnected ECU and checked connections to it, all looks good.
6- Put power to the fuel pump relay to make it prime, fuel pump primes when i do this and also attempted to start while doing this… nothing.
7- Checked spark plugs. Both spark plugs are brand new but NOT sparking. Checked the wiring to the spark plug wire with a multimeter and no power is getting to that.
8- All fuses have power EXCEPT headlight fuse. This fuse isn’t blown, the actual spot where the fuse plugs in has no power to it. Makes sense why my headlights don’t work.
9- Checked all filters, look good.
Based off all this, I think the next step is to order an ECU right? Am i wrong in saying that the reason my fuel pump doesn’t prime when key is switched on and spark plugs don’t get spark is because of the ECU? I can order a brand new one online and if it’s not the problem… return it? Fuel pump relay and fuse are fine and the pump itself works, My spark plugs and coil packs are brand new but still no spark…
