José María
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It may be the fuel pressure regulator that is locked in open position, it is located on the fuel pump housing and must be closed until 3,5 bar aprox. If it never closes, you will never got the right fuel pressure . I had that trouble with a gv250 EI that was stored for 11 years
else, I would take a look to the roll-over sensor.
I had the same simptoms with mine (gv250 ei version) and finally a contact-cleaner bath to ECU conector did the work. After that, I had to change the fuel pump connector (loosy) and the fuel pressure regulator, that was stuck in “open” position, voiding an adequate fuel pressure in injectors’ circuit.
Sorry, I mistaked the file of the link, the service manual of my fike is this (EI version):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19mnUqXh8Z5VcL8wQ1pvWdD9KM5p3NdM1/view?usp=sharing
no, it is no Dspec, it is “FI” version. I used this service manual for diagram, electrical diagnostic and error coding. :
http://www.hyosung.hu/download/pdf/data/service-manual/GV250-GT250-EFI-service-manual.pdf
Yes, i wear the contac cleaner in the top case
, because first week the bike didn’t start twice in street, and contact cleaning of ECU conector solved it (this is when I saw that silicone of the conector had become like sand). But now for 2 months it has been working right except for that eventual stalling between 3-7k rpm.Anyway the top speed (about 140 in the clock, 129real) and mileage (about 4,3 l/100km) is fine for me (1’93 and 120kg), and the spark electrode color is like coffe… this is why i wanted to collect the ECU data for searching the mismatching injection at mid range.
I will try to find the cable(s) that is(are) making that bad contact,, thank you 🙂
I suspect of some loosy contact in ECU conector, perhaps a hand of electric-conductive paint could help.
ECU conector is like this:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32919319794.html
it has internal silicone but is corrupt, while ECU pins have some wearing. when I move the ECU, engine idle is up-down-up, what is very weird…
Hola Jose, in what part of Spain are living? I live in Orihuela Costa.
I live very close to you, in Murcia city; and more exactly, I grew up beside the old airport of San Javier (I’m sure you know it 😉 )
Maybe some “temperature insulation” could help on ignition coils conservation. I think they get really hot, at least in gv250 situation, beside cilinder under fuel tank. this engine gets really hot, and perhaps heat acumulates at low speed. I don’t know where gt250 has these coils installed…
I had temp related issue with spark plug caps, and replacing them with ngk ones get solved it (misfire in idle when engine was warm) but now have stalling in medium rpm range… but I’m thinking that is related to ECU main coupler, because when I move it a little changes engine behavior at idle. I have ensured coupler and ECU unit with a plastic tie, after cleaning this coupler and ECU pins with contact cleaner, and today worked well…i will keep watching.
after mining that web, i have seen the the daewoo ECU looks similar to BOSCH MSE6.0 ECU used in benelli TRK 502, maybe I can still connect it!
It has same 48-pin coupler, and many pins have the same function.
edit: i have been a little unpolite… Did you found the trouble with your bike? mine has simillar stalling, in medium RPM regime (3000-7000)
I have been looking for that interface, or a diagram of it, for weeks. I have the typical cheap bluetooth-OBD interface used in several cars, but the only interface i found, called “BHY02”, was ridicously expensive.
Unfortunately, seems like your bike is the DELPHI ECU versión (the one witch double coupler), while mine is the DAEWOO versión. I will that this ECU can work witck K-line protocol , and I will read that link; by the way, a schem witch the colors and function of your motorbike’ diagnostic coupler would be happily welcome
Anyway, thanks for your answer, and the link!!
@Simon, Here is some data I collected from the ECU just before it stalled(rows around 112). The engine temp was about 112 C while the temp at the manifold around 50C. I also have some question marks about the Idle Speed Controller. According to the manual when the unit is removed from the airbox, the piston should be fully in when key is off and fully out when the key is turned on. In my case it stays closed in both conditions but when i turn the key back off the piston extends for about 2 secs and then retracts completely. I don’t know what to make of this. My logic tells me that the piston should only starts moving out to restrict the air, AFTER the engine has started.
Hello, Joe.
How do you collected the ECU log? i’m very interested but i don’t find the cable to conect to ECU.
Thanks.
