Hans-Wilhelm
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Now it won’t start at all and alternates between displaying C41 and C25. I replaced the rear ignition coil and the C25 error has gone. But it still won’t start. Now it’s showing C41 again. Today I wanted to remove the injectors, but there are those pesky connectors again. How do you unscrew them?
Since I was unable to find replacements for the damaged rubber fittings, I reassembled the machine using the old ones. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the ISC sensor, replaced the fuel injection unit and the air filter, disconnected all electrical connectors, cleaned them, and sprayed them with contact cleaner; I removed the fuel pump and cleaned its filter; and I calibrated the regulator and the IAP sensors. There was no corrosion or significant dirt anywhere. Except for the throttle body connectors to the airbox, all parts were intact and looked good.
The engine starts up, but after a few fluctuations, it quickly stalls again while idling. Above 4,500 rpm, it revs willingly, smoothly, and responds to the throttle. Below 4,000 rpm, it shows slight jerking and sluggishness. It responds sluggishly and with a slight delay to twists of the throttle grip and sounds weak. I didn’t ride it, since the reassembly was only temporary.
What’s new is that it now displays error code C41 after stalling. The fuel pump is making operational noises; I replaced the fuel pump relay: no change. Today I’m going to try cleaning the injectors with EFI cleaner added to the gas. I’m not holding out much hope, but what else can I do?
As I’ve been asking around, I’ve now been told that every component and every sensor could be the cause of the problem. Many of these are very hard to find as replacement parts—for example, the ECU or the rubber fittings I mentioned earlier, but also some sensors.
Since I was unable to find replacements for the damaged rubber fittings, I reassembled the machine using the old ones. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the ISC sensor, replaced the fuel injection unit and the air filter, disconnected all electrical connectors, cleaned them, and sprayed them with contact cleaner; I removed the fuel pump and cleaned its filter; and I calibrated the regulator and the IAP sensors. There was no corrosion or significant dirt anywhere. Except for the throttle body connectors to the airbox, all parts were intact and looked good.
The bike starts up, but after a few fluctuations, it quickly stalls again while idling. Above 4,500 rpm, it revs willingly, smoothly, and responds to the throttle. Below 4,000 rpm, it shows slight jerking and sluggishness. It responds sluggishly and with a slight delay to twists of the throttle grip and sounds weak. I didn’t ride it, since the reassembly was only temporary.
What’s new is that it now displays error code C41 after stalling. The fuel pump is making operational noises; I replaced the fuel pump relay: no change. Today I’m going to try cleaning the injectors with EFI cleaner added to the gas. I’m not holding out much hope, but what else can I do?
As I’ve been asking around, I’ve now been told that every component and every sensor could be the cause of the problem. Many of these are very hard to find as replacement parts—for example, the ECU or the rubber fittings I mentioned earlier, but also some sensors.
The motorcycle is starting to feel more and more like a “disposable motorcycle” to me. It runs fine at first, but as soon as more complicated problems arise, you might as well just get rid of it. There are no replacement parts, and the mechanical work between the cylinders is impossible without custom-made tools—and it’s a real pain. You don’t see this motorcycle around anymore, and I haven’t seen its popular sister model, the GV250i, in a long time either. I haven’t met anyone who’s said, “I had that problem once, and this is how I fixed it.” People don’t repair them; at best, they strip them for parts or send them to the scrapyard. And I’m slowly starting to consider doing the same.
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One of the two rubber connectors between the airbox and the throttle body is damaged and needs replacing. I’ve ordered and paid for them, but it seems I’ve fallen for a fraudulent website. The rubber connectors are no longer manufactured and are sold out everywhere. If anyone knows where to get hold of them, I’d be very interested On the other hand, there might be a way to replace them with parts from other manufacturers. Perhaps someone will have an idea after looking at the sketch with the approximate dimensions (in millimeters) and the photo. Someone on eBay is offering 5 pieces, but won’t ship them to Germany. It seems to be the last offer available worldwide.
First, you have to slide the blue latch to the side. This releases the tab, which you can then bend upward with a screwdriver to release a locking hook. In the photo, the latch is shown in the open position.
Today I ordered O-rings for the sealing surfaces and started removing the throttle body and the fuel injection unit. What I just can’t seem to do is disconnect the throttle position sensor connector. How the heck do you do that? Where’s the latch mechanism I need to release? It’s the sensor with just one screw.
I’ve now separated the airbox from the throttle body. One of the rubber connecting sleeves had a tear of 2–3 centimetres along the edge. It was starting to crumble. I’ve ordered new ones, but they won’t be delivered for another 10 days. I cleaned the connector pins, even though they all still looked new and in good condition. I didn’t dare touch the ECU connector, though. I also cleaned the ISC solenoid. Some black gunk came off, but it didn’t seem that bad to me. I can now access the throttle body. What work should I do on it? I have plenty of time before the rubber parts from Korea arrive.
