Hans-Wilhelm
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The whole hassle is starting all over again: the bike wouldn’t start, even though the battery was replaced a week ago. It started straight away when I jump-started it from the car battery. Voltage at idle (1600 rpm) is 14.2 volts, and at 6000 rpm it’s 14.1 volts! The regulator is noticeably warm after a ride. Where could the fault lie?
The FI light comes on occasionally whilst driving. Nothing happens in town traffic with varying revs. After accelerating and settling into a constant speed, the FI light comes on. Not always, but often. It then goes out again when you shift down to lower gears. When driving steadily in higher gears, it stays on for 20 minutes or more.
Although the system displays code C41, the problem appears to be electrical in nature, as when jump-started with a car battery, the engine starts immediately and no fault message is displayed.Thank you very much for your help.
I’ve fitted a new battery and my motorbike is running again. The idle is steady, whether the engine is cold or warm. It no longer cuts out whilst riding and doesn’t display any FI error messages either.
Looking back:
1. The biggest difficulty for me was disconnecting the sensor connectors and also those of the injectors. They differ from the usual multi-pin electrical connectors and are practically different for every component. You don’t want to risk breaking anything because you don’t know how to get hold of replacements. The cramped space between the cylinders makes the whole thing a nightmare. Some areas are inaccessible with standard tools.
2. Rubber grommets that are no longer available can be reproduced using 3D printing. There are ready-made templates available for this, which are shared free of charge. (Bambu) Writing the programmes yourself – I used OpenSCAD – takes less time than searching for the parts online. The petrol- and oil-resistant, heat-tolerant and elastic materials are available, and there are hobbyist 3D printing shops just round the corner.
3. When faults are unclear, there’s a concern that the ECU might be faulty. The Daewoo one – like many other parts – is no longer available from spare parts suppliers. If it really is broken, there’s no need to give up on the motorbike. There are companies that repair them. This is said to take 2–3 weeks and cost about the same as a new one.
4. I’ve been told that you can convert an EFI model back to a carburettor model. The EFI models have the same cylinder heads as the carburettor models. If you don’t have a carburettor model to strip for parts, the Hyosung wiring loom would be the most important item. Everything else can be purchased as generic parts if Hyosung does not supply spare parts.Are you getting an error message? I had the same problem: everything was working – the ignition, the fuel pump, the injectors, the starter motor – but it wouldn’t start. Try connecting a car battery in parallel. It worked straight away for me.
It hurts to realise you’ve been daft. After cleaning the injectors, replacing the idle speed control valve, replacing the rubber grommets between the airbox and the throttle bodies, replacing the fuel pump relay, removing and cleaning the throttle valves, fitting a new ignition coil for the rear cylinder, calibrating the throttle valves and IAP sensors electronically, etc., the bike started up yesterday evening, idled steadily for over 10 minutes and responded to the throttle, revving up and then settling back into a steady idle… and displayed C41 the whole time. I switched the engine off and then it wouldn’t start again, even though it was warm, with C41 showing once more. The same thing happened this morning. It wouldn’t start and displayed C41. I then connected a charged car battery in parallel. The engine started immediately, with no error message. My battery had simply become too weak and could no longer be charged sufficiently. The fuel pump was running, and the starter motor was turning, but there was no spark or the spark was too weak. The ECU interprets this as a fault in the fuel injection system and displays C41. As a result, you end up looking in the wrong place. Conclusion: a new battery, then I’ll be in touch again.
New injectors and an idle speed control unit arrived today, so I can carry on. How do you get the injectors out of the bracket once it’s been unscrewed? You can turn them back and forth a bit, but you can’t pull them out. Is there a safety clip or locking mechanism?
Now it won’t start at all and alternates between displaying C41 and C25. I replaced the rear ignition coil and the C25 error has gone. But it still won’t start. Now it’s showing C41 again. Today I wanted to remove the injectors, but there are those pesky connectors again. How do you unscrew them?
Since I was unable to find replacements for the damaged rubber fittings, I reassembled the machine using the old ones. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the ISC sensor, replaced the fuel injection unit and the air filter, disconnected all electrical connectors, cleaned them, and sprayed them with contact cleaner; I removed the fuel pump and cleaned its filter; and I calibrated the regulator and the IAP sensors. There was no corrosion or significant dirt anywhere. Except for the throttle body connectors to the airbox, all parts were intact and looked good.
The engine starts up, but after a few fluctuations, it quickly stalls again while idling. Above 4,500 rpm, it revs willingly, smoothly, and responds to the throttle. Below 4,000 rpm, it shows slight jerking and sluggishness. It responds sluggishly and with a slight delay to twists of the throttle grip and sounds weak. I didn’t ride it, since the reassembly was only temporary.
What’s new is that it now displays error code C41 after stalling. The fuel pump is making operational noises; I replaced the fuel pump relay: no change. Today I’m going to try cleaning the injectors with EFI cleaner added to the gas. I’m not holding out much hope, but what else can I do?
As I’ve been asking around, I’ve now been told that every component and every sensor could be the cause of the problem. Many of these are very hard to find as replacement parts—for example, the ECU or the rubber fittings I mentioned earlier, but also some sensors.
Since I was unable to find replacements for the damaged rubber fittings, I reassembled the machine using the old ones. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the ISC sensor, replaced the fuel injection unit and the air filter, disconnected all electrical connectors, cleaned them, and sprayed them with contact cleaner; I removed the fuel pump and cleaned its filter; and I calibrated the regulator and the IAP sensors. There was no corrosion or significant dirt anywhere. Except for the throttle body connectors to the airbox, all parts were intact and looked good.
The bike starts up, but after a few fluctuations, it quickly stalls again while idling. Above 4,500 rpm, it revs willingly, smoothly, and responds to the throttle. Below 4,000 rpm, it shows slight jerking and sluggishness. It responds sluggishly and with a slight delay to twists of the throttle grip and sounds weak. I didn’t ride it, since the reassembly was only temporary.
What’s new is that it now displays error code C41 after stalling. The fuel pump is making operational noises; I replaced the fuel pump relay: no change. Today I’m going to try cleaning the injectors with EFI cleaner added to the gas. I’m not holding out much hope, but what else can I do?
As I’ve been asking around, I’ve now been told that every component and every sensor could be the cause of the problem. Many of these are very hard to find as replacement parts—for example, the ECU or the rubber fittings I mentioned earlier, but also some sensors.
The motorcycle is starting to feel more and more like a “disposable motorcycle” to me. It runs fine at first, but as soon as more complicated problems arise, you might as well just get rid of it. There are no replacement parts, and the mechanical work between the cylinders is impossible without custom-made tools—and it’s a real pain. You don’t see this motorcycle around anymore, and I haven’t seen its popular sister model, the GV250i, in a long time either. I haven’t met anyone who’s said, “I had that problem once, and this is how I fixed it.” People don’t repair them; at best, they strip them for parts or send them to the scrapyard. And I’m slowly starting to consider doing the same.
<i>Translated with DeepL.com (free version)</i>
One of the two rubber connectors between the airbox and the throttle body is damaged and needs replacing. I’ve ordered and paid for them, but it seems I’ve fallen for a fraudulent website. The rubber connectors are no longer manufactured and are sold out everywhere. If anyone knows where to get hold of them, I’d be very interested On the other hand, there might be a way to replace them with parts from other manufacturers. Perhaps someone will have an idea after looking at the sketch with the approximate dimensions (in millimeters) and the photo. Someone on eBay is offering 5 pieces, but won’t ship them to Germany. It seems to be the last offer available worldwide.
First, you have to slide the blue latch to the side. This releases the tab, which you can then bend upward with a screwdriver to release a locking hook. In the photo, the latch is shown in the open position.
Today I ordered O-rings for the sealing surfaces and started removing the throttle body and the fuel injection unit. What I just can’t seem to do is disconnect the throttle position sensor connector. How the heck do you do that? Where’s the latch mechanism I need to release? It’s the sensor with just one screw.
I’ve now separated the airbox from the throttle body. One of the rubber connecting sleeves had a tear of 2–3 centimetres along the edge. It was starting to crumble. I’ve ordered new ones, but they won’t be delivered for another 10 days. I cleaned the connector pins, even though they all still looked new and in good condition. I didn’t dare touch the ECU connector, though. I also cleaned the ISC solenoid. Some black gunk came off, but it didn’t seem that bad to me. I can now access the throttle body. What work should I do on it? I have plenty of time before the rubber parts from Korea arrive.
Forum Replies Created
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Posts
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The whole hassle is starting all over again: the bike wouldn’t start, even though the battery was replaced a week ago. It started straight away when I jump-started it from the car battery. Voltage at idle (1600 rpm) is 14.2 volts, and at 6000 rpm it’s 14.1 volts! The regulator is noticeably warm after a ride. Where could the fault lie?
The FI light comes on occasionally whilst driving. Nothing happens in town traffic with varying revs. After accelerating and settling into a constant speed, the FI light comes on. Not always, but often. It then goes out again when you shift down to lower gears. When driving steadily in higher gears, it stays on for 20 minutes or more.
Although the system displays code C41, the problem appears to be electrical in nature, as when jump-started with a car battery, the engine starts immediately and no fault message is displayed.Thank you very much for your help.
I’ve fitted a new battery and my motorbike is running again. The idle is steady, whether the engine is cold or warm. It no longer cuts out whilst riding and doesn’t display any FI error messages either.
Looking back:
1. The biggest difficulty for me was disconnecting the sensor connectors and also those of the injectors. They differ from the usual multi-pin electrical connectors and are practically different for every component. You don’t want to risk breaking anything because you don’t know how to get hold of replacements. The cramped space between the cylinders makes the whole thing a nightmare. Some areas are inaccessible with standard tools.
2. Rubber grommets that are no longer available can be reproduced using 3D printing. There are ready-made templates available for this, which are shared free of charge. (Bambu) Writing the programmes yourself – I used OpenSCAD – takes less time than searching for the parts online. The petrol- and oil-resistant, heat-tolerant and elastic materials are available, and there are hobbyist 3D printing shops just round the corner.
3. When faults are unclear, there’s a concern that the ECU might be faulty. The Daewoo one – like many other parts – is no longer available from spare parts suppliers. If it really is broken, there’s no need to give up on the motorbike. There are companies that repair them. This is said to take 2–3 weeks and cost about the same as a new one.
4. I’ve been told that you can convert an EFI model back to a carburettor model. The EFI models have the same cylinder heads as the carburettor models. If you don’t have a carburettor model to strip for parts, the Hyosung wiring loom would be the most important item. Everything else can be purchased as generic parts if Hyosung does not supply spare parts.Are you getting an error message? I had the same problem: everything was working – the ignition, the fuel pump, the injectors, the starter motor – but it wouldn’t start. Try connecting a car battery in parallel. It worked straight away for me.
It hurts to realise you’ve been daft. After cleaning the injectors, replacing the idle speed control valve, replacing the rubber grommets between the airbox and the throttle bodies, replacing the fuel pump relay, removing and cleaning the throttle valves, fitting a new ignition coil for the rear cylinder, calibrating the throttle valves and IAP sensors electronically, etc., the bike started up yesterday evening, idled steadily for over 10 minutes and responded to the throttle, revving up and then settling back into a steady idle… and displayed C41 the whole time. I switched the engine off and then it wouldn’t start again, even though it was warm, with C41 showing once more. The same thing happened this morning. It wouldn’t start and displayed C41. I then connected a charged car battery in parallel. The engine started immediately, with no error message. My battery had simply become too weak and could no longer be charged sufficiently. The fuel pump was running, and the starter motor was turning, but there was no spark or the spark was too weak. The ECU interprets this as a fault in the fuel injection system and displays C41. As a result, you end up looking in the wrong place. Conclusion: a new battery, then I’ll be in touch again.
New injectors and an idle speed control unit arrived today, so I can carry on. How do you get the injectors out of the bracket once it’s been unscrewed? You can turn them back and forth a bit, but you can’t pull them out. Is there a safety clip or locking mechanism?
Now it won’t start at all and alternates between displaying C41 and C25. I replaced the rear ignition coil and the C25 error has gone. But it still won’t start. Now it’s showing C41 again. Today I wanted to remove the injectors, but there are those pesky connectors again. How do you unscrew them?
Since I was unable to find replacements for the damaged rubber fittings, I reassembled the machine using the old ones. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the ISC sensor, replaced the fuel injection unit and the air filter, disconnected all electrical connectors, cleaned them, and sprayed them with contact cleaner; I removed the fuel pump and cleaned its filter; and I calibrated the regulator and the IAP sensors. There was no corrosion or significant dirt anywhere. Except for the throttle body connectors to the airbox, all parts were intact and looked good.
The engine starts up, but after a few fluctuations, it quickly stalls again while idling. Above 4,500 rpm, it revs willingly, smoothly, and responds to the throttle. Below 4,000 rpm, it shows slight jerking and sluggishness. It responds sluggishly and with a slight delay to twists of the throttle grip and sounds weak. I didn’t ride it, since the reassembly was only temporary.
What’s new is that it now displays error code C41 after stalling. The fuel pump is making operational noises; I replaced the fuel pump relay: no change. Today I’m going to try cleaning the injectors with EFI cleaner added to the gas. I’m not holding out much hope, but what else can I do?
As I’ve been asking around, I’ve now been told that every component and every sensor could be the cause of the problem. Many of these are very hard to find as replacement parts—for example, the ECU or the rubber fittings I mentioned earlier, but also some sensors.
Since I was unable to find replacements for the damaged rubber fittings, I reassembled the machine using the old ones. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the ISC sensor, replaced the fuel injection unit and the air filter, disconnected all electrical connectors, cleaned them, and sprayed them with contact cleaner; I removed the fuel pump and cleaned its filter; and I calibrated the regulator and the IAP sensors. There was no corrosion or significant dirt anywhere. Except for the throttle body connectors to the airbox, all parts were intact and looked good.
The bike starts up, but after a few fluctuations, it quickly stalls again while idling. Above 4,500 rpm, it revs willingly, smoothly, and responds to the throttle. Below 4,000 rpm, it shows slight jerking and sluggishness. It responds sluggishly and with a slight delay to twists of the throttle grip and sounds weak. I didn’t ride it, since the reassembly was only temporary.
What’s new is that it now displays error code C41 after stalling. The fuel pump is making operational noises; I replaced the fuel pump relay: no change. Today I’m going to try cleaning the injectors with EFI cleaner added to the gas. I’m not holding out much hope, but what else can I do?
As I’ve been asking around, I’ve now been told that every component and every sensor could be the cause of the problem. Many of these are very hard to find as replacement parts—for example, the ECU or the rubber fittings I mentioned earlier, but also some sensors.
The motorcycle is starting to feel more and more like a “disposable motorcycle” to me. It runs fine at first, but as soon as more complicated problems arise, you might as well just get rid of it. There are no replacement parts, and the mechanical work between the cylinders is impossible without custom-made tools—and it’s a real pain. You don’t see this motorcycle around anymore, and I haven’t seen its popular sister model, the GV250i, in a long time either. I haven’t met anyone who’s said, “I had that problem once, and this is how I fixed it.” People don’t repair them; at best, they strip them for parts or send them to the scrapyard. And I’m slowly starting to consider doing the same.
<i>Translated with DeepL.com (free version)</i>
One of the two rubber connectors between the airbox and the throttle body is damaged and needs replacing. I’ve ordered and paid for them, but it seems I’ve fallen for a fraudulent website. The rubber connectors are no longer manufactured and are sold out everywhere. If anyone knows where to get hold of them, I’d be very interested On the other hand, there might be a way to replace them with parts from other manufacturers. Perhaps someone will have an idea after looking at the sketch with the approximate dimensions (in millimeters) and the photo. Someone on eBay is offering 5 pieces, but won’t ship them to Germany. It seems to be the last offer available worldwide.
First, you have to slide the blue latch to the side. This releases the tab, which you can then bend upward with a screwdriver to release a locking hook. In the photo, the latch is shown in the open position.
Today I ordered O-rings for the sealing surfaces and started removing the throttle body and the fuel injection unit. What I just can’t seem to do is disconnect the throttle position sensor connector. How the heck do you do that? Where’s the latch mechanism I need to release? It’s the sensor with just one screw.
I’ve now separated the airbox from the throttle body. One of the rubber connecting sleeves had a tear of 2–3 centimetres along the edge. It was starting to crumble. I’ve ordered new ones, but they won’t be delivered for another 10 days. I cleaned the connector pins, even though they all still looked new and in good condition. I didn’t dare touch the ECU connector, though. I also cleaned the ISC solenoid. Some black gunk came off, but it didn’t seem that bad to me. I can now access the throttle body. What work should I do on it? I have plenty of time before the rubber parts from Korea arrive.