Darkvader
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Thanks Marcel I will be doing that at the end of the month so i’ve ordered some :), i’m booking a big day to do a laundry list of little jobs and a first running service.
I’ve also got some ignition stuff in the order as well, including a regrec, coils and some new boots because I had a little bit of a terrifying experiance.
I was coming down the dual carrigeway doing 60 and the bike cut out earlier this week. Complete loss of power. The dash and speedo, lights etc were all working and the bike was taking in plenty of air (lots of induction noise) but it just seemed like it had been ‘switched off’, it was bizzare. for 10 seconds I was completely unable to accelerate, until i downshifted and gradually applied throttle. I can only imagine that I had an issue with spark because it was so sudden and lasted so long, i’m pretty sure if it was fuel she’d be popping and coughing but it was just gone completely.
After it went and came back i was then again able to accelerate up to 60. One thing that tipped me off about electrical was a really sparodic tacho needle too, at and after 9k it’s not constant like the engine note seems to suggest, it bounces up and down about 500RPM but at the minute will only do that at 9k+. plus when i was stuck doing 50, the needle was also bouncing all over the place while the bike was fairly smooth. It seemed a few other people had issues like that too caused by regrec/coils. So going to see if that fixes things. What would you suggest? I’m only really able to make an estimated guess. obviously the carbs are coming off and getting done.
Thanks Again!Just thought i’d throw my 2p in the pot with a technique that worked for me on my gv125c :).
I had to take mine off as i was checking the wiring across the bike for any badly corroded connections. I found that even though I marked where the original bolts where it didn’t seem quite right when I put the light back.What I did is parked my mums i10 in front of my bike about 1/2 a car away and sat in it to check the aim and set it so that the main beam was just on the bonnet of her i10 ( think about 30cm or so above the number plate and couldn’t dazzle the driver.
When it went in for the MOT a few days later they didn’t even know i’d adjusted it, so guess it worked fairly well hah! it would be a bit of a challenge if there was any left and right adjustment but the GV only has 2 bolts where one has a slot for up and down adjustment.Thanks Marcel,
The MOT went sucessfully and she is now back on the road!
I have adjusted them to 2.25 front and 2.5 rear, I don’t know what jets it has at the minute, so i guessed it’s better to be somewhere between the two until i’m able to pull the carbs off.In the last week i’ve done 180 miles just to see what she needs before I start making more repairs. firstly, that slow throttle response has cleared up nearly completely now. It revs like it should and the only issue is when it’s cold, it stumbles when it’s not quite up to temp.
at the moment there is a lack of top end power, past 9k RPM it seems to not want to rev much more. I have managed 70mph once but generally 60 is the max i can get and the other day i was struggling to get more than 50-55. I can only guess the main jet is ever so slightly blocked, so between 8-10k it’s running too lean. Round town, 30-40 or 3k to 7k though is ok.When i get paid on the 21st i’ll be getting some 90 and 92.5 jets, I think that would probably help.
thanks everyone for the help in getting her back on the road.Hi Nik,
Aside from having good battery and battery connections there’s three things this could be, the first and most likely would be a bad starter solenoid. this is a high current switch for the starter that is activated by the button on the handle bar. Usually you can tell if these are working properly if you get a little click from it when you press the button and there’s voltage on the wires that goes to the starter. One thing you can try is locate where your starter solenoid is, press the button to crank the bike over and give it a tap with something. if the bike starts cranking then it’s pretty likely the contacts in the solenoid are bad. if it does nothing at all, you can short the two high current wires on the top of it with a screwdriver briefly (12v in and 12v out to starter) to confirm that the starter is actually turning over. Some starters have solenoids built in but i would be surprised if that’s the case (though i can’t confirm).
The second thing to check is the starter itself, if the solenoid is supplying voltage to the starter but it’s not doing anything then you could have a bad starter. to get you by you can give the starter a little tap to see if it will start moving.
The third (and really unlikely thing) is that the starter button isn’t actually sending a signal to the solenoid. There’s also a possibility that you have a bad sensor that is stopping the bike cranking but that’s unlikely becuase you’d probably not be able to push start the bike either with that.
the best way to check this is to find the wire for the switch gear on that side, disconnect it and measure if the button connects the wires for the relay with a continuity meter. It’s very unlikely because the starter button is on the bottom of the switch gear and is shielded more from the weather than the buttons at the top, plus the S is much newer. stuff like this happens only really when things have been sitting.Hope that helps!
There’s only the one big motorcycle workshop here so I think it’s lack of competition locally, I’m certainly not using them again.
My other bike that I’m working into (an XVS650) is having a bit of work done before I get it and they are charging that for a couple of seals, re-grease the brake pins and sticky switches. I suspect a standard service would be the same. The place i got it from were also surprised at the cost of it as well but can’t be helped as it is needing an MOT.Yes easily!, when my gv is riding i’ll book something in for a lookover 🙂
Thanks for letting me know, My uncle and I have just recently pulled the rear wheel off to do the chain but it turns out we’ll need a socket, all the ones he had are either too big or too small haha.
Off the top of your head you wouldn’t happen to know the torque specs for them would you? I can’t find a GV service manual, just the owners manual.
Thanks Marcel 🙂
I’d say yes as the garage I went was actually a honda garage and they should have known better but they shut shop just before the pandemic.
To be honest, all motorcycle garages here are terrible. they’ve all bodged something up and facebook is filled with stories even with common bikes. I think as a rule most just work on their own bikes here. plus 82 quid an hour isn’t worth it to install 2 plugs, throw some pads on and a put some oil in.
I don’t want to sound like I’m being daft because i’m sure you’ve already done it but what I would do first is to confirm the correct functioning of the needle and seat.
I would get some clear fuel hose, connect it to the fuel inlet on the carb, fill it with fuel and watch it run into the carb (cableties for the hose on the handlebar to keep the hose above the carbs usually works). at some point it should stop. if it doesn’t that’s a dead giveaway that the needle, seat or float level is bad (because it should stop when the bowls are full enough). That should be part of a carb kit so I would be surprised if it wasn’t working correctly but good to confirm.
I haven’t rebuilt a carb (yet) but there should be someone more qualified than me to help guide you on here.
As for the hydrolock, there’s a possibility as well that the oil is contaminated with fuel, certain bikes have PCV systems and if the oil is full of fuel it could leak into the cylinder through the intake pcv system. (though i’m not sure about the hyosungs, but with anything like this, check everything)
Another possibility is a perished or damaged O-ring somewhere that is seeping fuel somewhere it doesn’t belong. I’m not all that familiar with the Mikuni carbs but it wouldn’t surprise me if theres an ancient o-ring that is now a black piece of goo and causing your leak.
I’m sorry i couldn’t be much more help but I thought i’d send this just in case it’s useful.
When I was younger I used to follow a lot of guides online for stuff and they were an absolute blessing for stuff that isn’t exactly obvious, I try to share what I know when i can because of that. Yes there’s a small shop here that does repairs on them and i think anything bigger will just ignore the hyosungs because parts and support is practically non-existant to them. It is a shame. Even simple oil changes are often not done by them (and the one that did, overfilled my bike too as it turns out, lucky it was a garaging service rather than a running one)
Oh fantastic! Thank you. That’s what I thought they were but my uncle said to make sure and i’m not that skilled, i can only rely on what i’ve read. I will block that port on the air filter and route those other 2 hoses out under the bike.
Thank you for your help 🙂
This is a photo of my GV125c 2012 that i’m working on at the minute to get up to proper running condition. This was taken about 2017 before I ended up having to garage her for a while due to life getting in the way. I was a new rider at the time, so i think this counts.
Hi, thank you! Sorry for the duplicate post earlier. Hopefully i can send this reply now.
I have only had a few minutes today to take these but i’ve outlined them using my screenshot editor to show you what i am reffering to.
This is the tank with the vent attached but the fuel line is still on the bike. that clip on the hose was put there by my uncle yesterday as he was the one that pulled off the hose and threw it on this hose for somewhere to put it so it didn’t get lost.
This is the port in the airfilter housing that had that clip and the crumbling remains of a hose
this is the loose pipe from the left side of the carbs, i suspect this is the pipe that originally went to the airfilter housing but just making sure in case it’s not something vaccum related.
I will be blanking off the AIS once it’s passed its’ MOT, I’ve already ordered the parts to do it, it’s a little way off before I do though being that I need to do a sproket and chain set and sort the brakes out first.
Once i’ve done that I will be balancing the carbs as well (i’ll do a guide if there’s interest).Thanks Marcel 🙂
Sorry to interrupt, that’s a rather impressive modification and is definetly not stock as the two stock intake boots seem to have a T piece to another carb. Whoever did this was quite clever. Hyosungs usually have 2 mikuni carbs.
I have been playing around with mine today which is a 125 but very similar otherwise. This is so different, though rather tidy. Being that you’re adding fuel to get it to run properly, you may have a vaccum leak or they never bothered to get the jetting right. I would say try adding an eighth (1/8th) of a turn out (as if you’re removing it) to the mixture screw to see if it helps. failing that you’d probably need a bigger jet if it’s not a vaccum leak. Obviously not being a stock bike i haven’t a clue what that carb is and i couldn’t tell you where that screw would be but if i’m to hazard a guess it will be near the choke, maybe even part of that mechinism.
Being non-stock you may have a hard time getting it to run correctly but having a single carb does remove some of the difficulty out of tuning it.
Hi Marcel,
I’ve seen that before, alongside heatshrink too. I’m going to get together with my uncle in the next few days and see what he says.
I agree with a repair on them being temporary. I used to mess around with all sorts of glues and fixings trying to find ways to make things last longer (poor family!) and they never do last much longer, it’s just about knowing what’ll make things last until you’re able to get things replaced. I’ve heard a fair bit about the metal intake pipes on facebook (may be the same guy, i’m not sure) and I’m looking forward to what he’ll be able to achieve. I certainly don’t mind being a guinnea pig if i can help in any way.
as for e10, I refuse to use it in a carby bike. My old car had so many troubles with the switchover and that was rated for it, so i don’t like the idea of running that haha. Probably would be fine in an EFI bike but yes.
Thanks Marcel!
