Dave
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Sounds like you should make a tutorial for your future owners who may stumble upon this thread for help too. I am very pleased you got it going! Time for a quick test ride ?
Hahaha already taken it for a test ride.
The torque on it is awesome. Lots of power.
You couldn’t wipe the smile off my face at all.
Thanks
Hi all,
Just wanted to update on Betty.
So to remove the rotor i had to fabricate my own removal tool. Pictured below. The rear engine mounting bolt is the same thread and pitch so i just cut one shorter. Worked perfectly.
I also found out that the ring gear in behind the rotor is slightly different as well.
Got them changed over and put it all back together.
Filled up fluids and fuel tank etc back on.
Kicked it in the guts and guess what happened?
It fired right up and settled straight into a very happy burble.
Absolutely love the sound.
So a big learning curve and wouldn’t have been able to do it without all of your help. Thanks so much.
Hi there,
I upgraded my GPX250 lights some time ago with a plug and play H4 led bulb.
I agree it’s chalk and cheese.
However being in Australia be careful as no led lights are ADR (Australian Design Rules) compliant. And you do risk being defected for them.
On saying that awesome job. Love it.
thanks for the good info.
I’m just at the pub having lunch then will head back home and put the original one from the efi engine in. Got it mostly apart then got thirsty.
Will update when/if i get it working
Thanks everyone,
I’ll have a go at replacing the rotor on thursday when i get time. If not then I’ll have to do it when I’m next gome in a few weeks.
Thanks for the great help and info.
Hi i have taken some photos of the original efi flywheel. I’m not sure what the timing tabs are but i imagine they are the raised tabs around the edge. There are 23 of them.
Not sure about the one currently installed in the engine. Will have to wait a few days for that.
To remove the flywheel i just take off the one bolt in the center? Or do i undo the cap screws around the center.
Also i just had a look at the trashed engine.
It would seem i did replace the stator unknowingly as it’s attached to the side cover. I changed the side covers because i liked the black better than the chrome of the carby version.
I didn’t replace the flywheel. Is this critical?
There was no ET sensor on the head.
I changed the water pump, neutral sensor and the starter motor.
Thanks again
Hello Dave, I’m a new member too with an ST7 project bike that has just arrived today! Is that Perth, Scotland or Perth, Australia by the way…it was sunny in the Scottish one the last time I was there! Why not upload some pictures of your bikes…it is always nice to see what others own and ride.
Hahaha I’m definitely not in the Scotland perth. Congrats on the new bike.
Mine are currently in pieces so not very picture ready. But will post one of when i bought my first gv650. I call it Betty. As in The song Black Betty.
Was the ECU Delphi? And all electronics have delphi branding on it Or if you want post a picture of the ECU , stator of the wrecked engine and its flywheel. It could likely be the stator unit compatibility with ECU due to fact certain stators want certain ECUs. The stator and ECU are the 2 to talk to each other while cranking to make pulse timings Then ECU primes the fuel pump and wakes up all other electrics to make flames (sparks) to get her going The carby vs efi engine = purely the actually sensors on the motor to switch. (ET sensor , if its there on the head. Some dont have it. Stator unit, NEUTRAL sensor (efi tends to have 6 dots on it. Carby gearbox sensors tend to have 1 dot or 5) Regards
Hi Marcel,
Thanks for your reply. All the sensors are the ones from the original engine.
Yes the ECU is a delphi and i didn’t swap the stator.
As you’ve said these are all.matched units so that’s my next mission. Change the stators over.
So all the sensors, efi etc are from the original efi bike/engine.
It will take a couple of days till i can do this so will post an update then.
Thanks so much.
Ok so i had a (possible) brain wave.
When i changed the engine to the older engine i didn’t change the stator to the original one out of the efi engine.
So it still has the original carby model stator in it.
Upon some research around the interwebs thingy it would seem that the carby stator and the efi stator are different and not compatible with each engine.
Am i onto something here? Or is it negligible differences?
As i still have the old (trashed) engine i can still rob for parts.
Thanks again. 🤔🤔🤔
The problem is going to be ECU, you need a carb one, the wiring loom is going to be completely different yes the indicators, lights etc are going to be pretty much the same but it’s all the rest of it that’s going to be a problem. I’m pretty sure the carb one doesn’t run an electric fuel pump & it won’t work because the ECU won’t fire it up because there’s no signal from all the sensors during load up. Personally I would try to fit the efi stuff to the engine which I would assume can be done (without a real life look I don’t know) Marcel will probably have a better understanding.
Hi there, thanks for your reply.
The carby engine was put back into the efi frame.
I have refitted all the efi equipment as if if was original. I had to change the neutral sensor over and i replaced starter and water pump from the original engine.
Everything is connected as original. I’m not using carbys at all.
I would have thought this set up would have worked.
Sorry if i didn’t make myself clear.
Have checked the ro sensor but can’t get a resistance reading from it. Also checked the side stand switch and have no voltage there either.
I tried jumping both ro sensor and the side stand switch to no avail.
Could there be any internal sensors on the efi engine that are not on the carby engine?
I know an efi engine is backward compatible to a carby.
Thanks for your input
