Jo
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Hey Joeseb, thanks for you contribution!
Yeah that explanation sounds very logical to me. So when your piston popped out could you screw it back in the ISC unit by hand and it functioned properly when you installed it back to your bike? Or you had to replace the whole unit for it to function?
Thanks!
The top feed of the shell is usually connected to the air box nipple (one of them underneath)
I will have to see about that again when I get my hands on the bike.
I saw this post, what do you think, is it possible to swap the throttle bodies from my EFI model bike with the appropriate carburetor from the older models, would it even fit?I have saved the old ISCV unit so I can use it to block the airbox hole as well as the 2 nipples.
I will use the metal shell just for testing yes, I guess there will be no problems because there is no air filter attached to the input pipe on the shell?
Also I didn’t reply to your previous question. I will make sure before the next test that the battery is full, and yes the same behavior is happening to both the NEW and the OLD ISCV units.Nothing sounds foolish to me at this point if you would ask me to read tarot cards to the bike I would try it 😀
Thank you so much for the detailed information.
I am afraid that once the new ISCV springs out of place like mine did it loses it’s calibration or proper function, I might be mistaken here?
My bikes ISCV goes directly onto the plastic air box it does not have the metal shell. Just like in the white picture from the manual in my previous post.
Here is the metal shell I received with the ISCV that you mention that has pipes that get attached to the air hose, here are the pictures of it.
It will take some time before I can get back to the bike and test it but I will report back here. Thank you very much for your prompt reply!
Also here are the pictures of the new valve and some schematics from the manual regarding the ISCV.
Hey Everyone, Happy New year and holidays!
I just wanted to update you on the issue. The new ISCV valve has finally arrived and the thing I was afraid will happen, happened again.
Upon swapping the ISCV with the new part and turning the ignition key to the on position valve again please check the video bellow.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ish1Kvtzwsg
Notice how after the fuel pump noise I switched the key to the ON position and the valve springed out off place.
I would appreciate if someone could measure the values on their ISCV using the multimiter when the ignition is switched to the off and on position, without the engine running so I can compare it to mine. I am afraid there is something wrong with the ECU and it’s providing the ISCV valve with bad current/values.
Thanks!
Engine Compression is very good! TPS = It looks OK , the manual says replace it if it causes problems because we can’t manually make adjustments to it.
Glad to hear that the compression is very good 🙂
Next step will be to order a new ISCV, and before attaching it check all of the wiring from the ISCV to ECU I guess.
I will keep you updated. Thank you!Hello everyone!
Just to remind you the bike is still running with the makeshift mechanical ISCV not the original part.
So a few updates, as Marcel requested:1. I have checked the compression on both cylinders and they seem to be even, I don’t know the recommended values so if you can please let me know.
Front Cylinder showed a compression of 175 psi / 12 bar / 12.2366 kg/cm²
Rear Cylinder showed a compression of 175 psi / 12 bar / 12.2366 kg/cm²2. Throttle position sensor (TPS) on my bike is a 1 bolt type and it has been checked, it showed a reading of 1.09V on closed throttle and 4.45V on full throttle I believe that is in spec though I would appreciate if you could confirm this value.
3. The pipes leading from the Idle speed control valve (ISCV) to the throttle bodies have been checked and they don’t have leaks.
Unluckily I haven’t checked the resistance of the ignition coils & the plug caps, so I will do that next time.
Thank you everyone!
Yes you can check the resistance of the coil & the plug caps with a multimeter, it did think at one time the ics was faulty but it was not the case, also check the pipes from the ics for leaks, can’t remember of the top of my head what the readings of the coils & plug caps should be but Marcel will probably know
Found the reference values for ignition coil resistance in the manual, here is the picture if anyone needs it in the future.
You can find it on the following link. https://ibb.co/QMgXn3WKnowing that particular model very well your issues sound electrical to me, there are a sets of connectors under the tank on the left hand side fixed to the frame unplug & clean them they are particularly bad for grime, the idle circuit runs through one of them, also check those plug caps very prone to failure
Hey Simon, thank you very much for the reply!
Have you had an issue with the ISCV as well? I will most definitely check the wiring loom on the frame and find the adequate wiring for the ISCV, and also clean the contacts with contact spray. Is there a way to test the plug caps?Thanks!
Okay, I have to ask though, how is the engine compression ? Get the bike warmed up hot …. remove both spark plugs , check compression at full throttle and tell us the result. I might have a small suspicion that one of the cylinders may be a little lower than spec but we shall see after your report , because it seems like you changed everything to all new parts? Also , why not change the fuel pump as new again incase the old one of 3 years is no longer performing well, you said it was okay in the early days but now the bike is misbehaving a little bit, so it could be the pump needs changing again , usually sometimes rough running or rough idle is the pump. Try that too, and also check the TPS using service manual again to check its in spec, the idle can be affected , then reconnect the ISCV Though if you said “i removed the pipes from ISCV” and the engine idled normally, = normally on any motorcycle more in the engine to make it idle usually means the air filter is stuffed (intake system chocking) or the ignition parts are producing weaker spark causing a rich condition that includes quickly fouled up plugs
Hey Marcel, thanks for the reply!
I will do the compression test on both the cylinders at full throttle, I have never done one of those before but I found some resources online.
I thought the fuel pump was ok? I can change it again but it’s pricey 130 eur.
TPS will be checked and I will report back. As for the airbox I never changed it and don’t have a picture of it but by the looks of it looks like new.
Is there a way to test the Ignition parts? Ignition parts are: Front and back ignition coils as well as the spark plug caps?
What do you think about the mechanical ISCV solution or should I be getting a new one?Thank you!
