Thomas
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Thanks Marcel
I’ll try and clean it up and smack a security torx in. Hopefully she will turn. I’m slightly encouraged because the hex nut turns.
I also didn’t think of the idea of welding the torx bit into the bolt so I may try that if all else fails.
Either way she will.be off the road as she is out of MOT.
She needs a new horn and number plate light along with the exhaust fixings to pass.
On a positive note I did a compression test if her the other week and had an evening 160 psi on each cylinder so the engines good at least 🤣
Hi Allan
Thanks for your reply.
The hex head does move I tried earlier and it will turn. Unfortunately the torx one is that rotten I can’t get a torx bit in it. And with regards to mole grips there’s nothing to grab as the access is recessed into the fins pictured below.
I think the only viable option is to drill it out but I don’t have the tools nor expertise to do that and the local garages I’ve spoken too don’t want to touch it incase they screw it up.
I’ll try and clean the torx head as much as possible and see if I can hammer a bit in. Otherwise I feel she may be sold for parts
oplus_32 Right, had to nip out to the shop and I’ve noticed another 2 issues.
My indicator relay is buzzing like crazy when indicators are off. Stops buzzing when indicators are on.
And my neutral light is flickering on at low rpm when riding in gear. Goes off when revs rise above 4k.
I think there is deffo voltage leaking through the system somewhere but have no idea where to start.
Unfortunately although the bike is currently warm I can’t get the stator resistance tonight. I’ll follow up with them and plug photos tomorrow. Again sorry for being a pain. I appreciate any and all help
Hi Marcel
Thanks for your replies
Unfortunately the weather has been crap today so not had chance to take her out and warm her up and get the stator resistance readings.
When the weather is a little better I’ll warm her up. Take her for a 10 min ride then I’ll redo to stator check and I’ll remove the plugs and send updated pictures of them. Hopefully in the next day or 2.
In the spring I’ll do a full tear down and check every electrical connection and clean with contact cleaner. She needs some love and a deep clean anyway so I can do them both at the same time.
Here’s a question for you. The loom has diodes in to stop back feeding of voltage. Could one of these have gone bad and there is voltage back feeding somewhere through the system when I turn my lights on causing the tacho Junp and potentially my issues of frying coils and reg/recs?
Hey Marcel
I’ll do a resistance check in the stator tomorrow with the bike fully warmed up.
- Battery is a yuasa ytx 14 BS, not sure on age. Haven’t had it checked either but will get it done at halfords asap
- Headlights are stock bulbs a year old as I replaced them not long after I got the bike
- There are no electrical accessories on the bike at all
- Yes the bike does misfire/jerk occasionally whilst riding, mainly when changing gear, I’ve I pull clutch in, shift up or down and it takes a moment for the bike To respond and can jerk/misfire.
The Regulator/rectifier that blew is already the uprated one from your shop. I’ve had to revert to the OEM one that luckily I kept.
Other things to note. On the uprated regulator the bottom end performance of the bike was much better but top end lacking. Putting the OEM one back on yesterday I noticed a much flatter bottom end but top end power improved.
Also to note. When riding, if I put the headlights on when I’m cruising at say 7k RPM the tacho will do a little jump when switching the lights on. Doesn’t do it all the time but enough to make me question if there’s some voltage leaking somewhere.
Sorry for the essay. I just want to get my machine working properly. It’s my only means of transport, but if it keeps blowing brand new parts I may have to get rid, which I don’t really want to do.
I’ve attached a photo of the potting on my reg/rec bulging out. All but one of the phases into the reg are fried. Noticed the issue when the bike stopped charging past 5k rpm. Tested and confirmed with a multimeter the unit is fried. I’m at a loss what’s causing my issues
Okay double checked and all 3 phases measure 0.8 ohms, so maybe this isn’t my problem.
Voltage of the phases at 4k rpm all sit at 65v AC.
A bit late to rev it to 5k, neighbours won’t be happy.
Any insight would be helpful right now as the bike has eaten 2 coils and and regulator/rectifier that cost me a lot of money. I need to get to the bottom of this
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Hi Marcel. Sorry for the delay between posts. Long story here so I’ll try to be quick. You know I emailed you about my uprated coils failing, well the uprated reg/rec has just died too. I’ve just tested the 3 yellow wires from the stator and they are all directly shorted to each other. Less than 1ohm resistance between all 3 phases. So I think I’ve found out why the new parts were failing. Also explains my poor sparking issues. Would you need pictures of my flywheel and stator to confirm what unit I need? I’ve spent so much money in this bike and it’s just decided to blow up all the new parts. I’m not a happy bunny and now looking at another god knows how much to fix her.
Okay I’ve just looked at the specs for the charging coils and the manual says between 0.6-0.9 ohms. So might be In spec then. I’m gonna retest
Hi Marcel.
Sorry for the delay between posts. Long story here so I’ll try to be quick.
You know I emailed you about my uprated coils failing, well the uprated reg/rec has just died too. I’ve just tested the 3 yellow wires from the stator and they are all directly shorted to each other. Less than 1ohm resistance between all 3 phases.
So I think I’ve found out why the new parts were failing. Also explains my poor sparking issues.
Would you need pictures of my flywheel and stator to confirm what unit I need?
I’ve spent so much money in this bike and it’s just decided to blow up all the new parts. I’m not a happy bunny and now looking at another god knows how much to fix her.
Hi Marcel
To be honest the threads on the plug being wet may be due to the fact the sparkplug wasn’t tight when I swapped them out earlier today. I’ll post pics.of the new plugs once my clamps and carb screws arrive as I’ll have to strip her back down then anyway. I’ve put 30 miles in the new plugs and caps today and the bike already feels better. Only bogginess is around 3k rpm to 4k but I’ll be deep cleaning the carbs soon so hopefully that will help.
No pooping in the airbox while revving
And if I gun i have a nice pull throughout the rev range with a slight surge of power just over 9k to 10.5k. I don’t go over that limit but it pulls strongest in that narrow rev range.
I’m using motul 7100 oil. It’s due a change soon so I’ll do that with the carb clean/clamp replacement next week. Oil filter was brand new last oil change, about 1000 miles ago. Good to reuse or would you change it?
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Hi sorry it’s been so long. Today I finally changed my spark plugs and caps and the machine instantly feels better. Still have the issues with it cutting out when leaning into the side stand but pretty sure that’s float heights slightly out of whack. I’ve got pictures of the plugs from the machine as requested and are posted below. Let me know what you think
Top pic is rear plug bottom pic is front plug
Hi sorry it’s been so long. Today I finally changed my spark plugs and caps and the machine instantly feels better. Still have the issues with it cutting out when leaning into the side stand but pretty sure that’s float heights slightly out of whack.
I’ve got pictures of the plugs from the machine as requested and are posted below. Let me know what you think
I’d live to bring it in but I can’t get it through our door haha. I keep her covered outside and coated with acf 50 so she should be okay. I’m an all year round rider as she is my daily driver. I always leave her to warm up for 10 mins though..she doesn’t like the cold too much haha
Thanks Marcel. I’ll get some new plugs too as I think it’s due..I still haven’t had chance to pull mine so I can get pics from you but I will do it soon. Just had a whirlwind weekend. Think I may take the carbs off anyway and double check the float heights just to be safe too.
Bad time of year to be working on bikes as I have no garage so have to do it all outside. If it isn’t raining it’s freezing haha
Hi Marcel
I haven’t had chance yet. I’ll try tomorrow. I’m gigging tonight so spent all day prepping for that haha but I’ll get them posted asap.
I do get a misfire when the engine is warm so I will invest in some caps either way. I’m using stock plugs at the moment.
Thanks for the reply matey
I do get weird behaviour when changing hear sometimes too. Like the engine lags before coming back to correct RPM. And the bike jerks a little.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I can confirm the needle slides are on the “rich” setting. Before I did this the bike was pretty much unrideable in the mid range.
Only mods are the ones listed above and a bolt on exhaust can. (Bike had this when I purchased it)
I’ve also deleted the AIS. I have made sure that the pipe that used to go to the AIS from the airbox is plugged correctly to avoid any air leaks too.
Bike worked really really well for 3 months then just seemed to start struggling in the midrange and upper midrange. I have never adjusted the floats as I know they need to stay at 7mm with the carb upside down.
I’ll get a picture of my plugs over the weekend. I’m a little busy over the next couple of days but will do it asap. Mixtures haven’t been touched as again I know these are not recommended to be touched by housing themselves.
The reason I mentioned the HT Caps is that I’m sure they are supposed to be under 10k resistance so wondered if this could attribute to it as nothing has changed since the bike was running well. I tested the Caps with them not attached to the HT Lead
