Andrew
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I have found that this video by ‘Delboy’s Garage’: (14) Delboy’s Garage, USD Fork Seal Replacement – YouTube (Delboy’s Garage, USD Fork Seal Replacement) was very helpful. It is clear that the manual is either just plan wrong, or was written for a different version (although mine is an earlier carburettor model). I have followed the method used by ‘Delboy’ and it has worked. You do not need the special tool mentioned in the manual (09913-50121) as the seal comes out when you separate the two tubes by ‘clonking’ them apart, but you do need a special driver tool to seat the bush and new seal on assembly: Adjustable 39mm-50mm Oil Seals Install Tool Motorcycle Fork Seal Driver Tool | eBay (ebay item no.364565521173). That tool was cheap enough, and I have ordered the correct oil. Although this would be a very niche audience to play to, as the manual is misleading I am making a video which I will publish on YouTube for the guidance of other members and I will rewrite the chapter with the correct method. Please check back here in a week or so.
<video controls=”controls” width=”300″ height=”150″>
<source src=”https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8sr36pmslmrz939g5lcow/IMG_1528.MOV?rlkey=ay2p1mnj4wadnd6wet57merjo&dl=0″ /></video>Yes, my bike has a manual choke. Now that I have fitted the original exhaust, and I have run it with E5 98 and Liqui Moly Card for a few miles it is behaving much better. It did still cut out on deceleration when getting down to 1st gear once or twice, but it will now idle when hot. I still get bang-and-pop on over-run, but with the new (original) exhaust it doesn’t sound nearly so bad. I did get a new air filter at the start of this year (along with the £600 service!) and comparing the colour of the old and the new it could have been the first new air filter for a very long time. It is now SORN for 6 months so I’ll start it up and idle it every month till Spring and then I’ll be sure to check the timing. I also got a brand new radiator for it from Aliexpress (item-1005005776337812) for £60 (bargain) as the old one had a very slight leak and I asked the servicing garage to add some ‘leak-stop’ (which I now see the manual forbids). So it should be breathing very well and keeping cool.
Fair enough. But have you solved the original issue with stalling at lights?
Still hoping for some advice on the stalling at lights issue. I have added some Liqui Moly Carb and valve cleaner (as mine is not an EFI). I added that, filled the tank with E5 and took it for a ride before taking the exhaust off, but there was no improvement after 20 miles.
Perhaps I should have mentioned that I bought my bike with an aftermarket exhaust fitted, but the original exhaust came with the bike. I asked a chap at the local Triumph dealer if an aftermarket exhaust could affect smooth running and he said it might, so I thought I’d return the factory exhaust to the bike. On removing the aftermarket one I found it had a great big crack at one of the joints (hidden from view) and the front cylinder fixing was loose because the gasket was missing. When a new gasket arrives I will be able to see if the factory exhaust improves it at all.
Hello. I have exactly the same problems that ‘Whitewolf’ describes in his initial post. Stuttering and cutting out in stop-start traffic when hot, which is sucking out all the fun. Only difference my GV650 is an older bike on carbs. Does that affect the advice given?
I have discovered through a video on YouTube how to easily extract the ethanol out of petrol. Would ethanol free petrol be a big improvement? BTW; you can also buy ethanol free petrol if you prefer, according to Harry Metcalf of ‘Harry’s Garage’ on YouTube.
Chopper Whitewolf: Why are you converting to a chain? I thought belts were more advanced and better all round??
Thanks
Andrew
