Maciek

[Maciek]

Thanks Marcel for your reply.

I will reply to you under yours questions.

This may sound stupid, but i trust you already did that but can you tell us what compression is on each cylinder?

To be honest I did not do that, is’t not so easy to borrow such an equipment. I will oreder it and I will check it. But form the other hand, there is a relation with low compression on pistons after valve clearance? Forgive me for asking, but I’m a total greenhorn on the subject….

As you follow the service manual , i won’t need to explain how to do it but if you get stuck , just reply here again.

Thanks mate!

Also, when the noise comes from engine –> Get a screw driver and poke the tensioner –> put your ear on the other end of the screwdriver — > ask someone to rev the bike a little bit, so see if you hear any abnormal/weird tensioner noises and cam chain slapping hard ?

Noise comes from rear cylinder (that’s what I’m hearing). I poke the tensioner few times on neutral RPMs, also I puted my ear on a screwdriver and didn’t hear any different noises. Also I was setting tensioners in the same place as they were. Maybe I’m stupid, but I’ve got and idea with yours proposal and I take a small screwdriver and inserted ito the tensioner hole and a little bit released the tension of it, and I’ve heard the camshaft chain clearly, but when I realesed it back I didn’t hear the chain, but it’s still metal knocking.

Did also check each camshaft is correct ? and checked cam-shaft bearings are OK? – Sometimes previous owner puts a “Rear EX” camshaft in to Front Cylinder and problems start

I inserted the camshafts according to the markings and pins in them. The bearings have been checked and are fine, the bridges are not slipped, the camshafts are in very good condition with no pitting or scratches.
For me, currently if I have put it together correctly then it should be all right or, if there were shafts swapped by the previous owner, would there be a problem?

 

Don’t get me wrong, but before the valve clearance, riding was smooth and without any issues, only this metal knocking appears, but it was not so loud. After valve clearance it’s worse. I’m guessing, that something was not properly setted back as it was…

Does the screw force have a big impact on that?

Will the strength, order of tightening of the timing bridge bolts affect camshaft deflection/flexion? Or that it will not tighten the camshaft bearings correctly?

[Maciek]

I’ve made a video how it’s working right now.

#Edited I’ve linked it in this post but it’s not appearing so I’m forwarding the link.

If I will find I will uploads also how it was working earlier.

#Edited2 I’m forwarding the pictures of cam shaft tenaioners

[Maciek]

Thank you, Marcel, for your reply, but I think I still have more questions on this topic, so I have sent you an email via the ‘contact’ tab.

[Maciek]

Marcel, what about tires 140/70 on rear rim?

Will the use of a narrower tyre have a negative effect on driving conditions of bike?

I have a very good price opportunity and to buy a Pirelli Diablo Rosso III, what do you think of them? Will they be worth buying?
In addition to these Pirelli, the rear tyre is 150/60, will this affect the riding conditions?

Forgive me for asking such silly things but I have never dealt with motorbike tyres before.

[Maciek]

Thanks guys, the bike is fixed now!
Another topic with the rear shock, I found a used one from a GT650 and it fits!
Now it’s a completely different riding comfort! 🙂

[Maciek]

Cobra2 wrote:

2 +3: Float-level…

Quote

Thanks, can you elaborate on your statement? I’m not sure I understand it correctly.

[Maciek]

Maybe not totally new, I was riding as a kid on 50cc, it was 23 years ago 😅

But first timer as a owner 😁

I find my Hyo quite well, I was so scared my first roundcross 🙈 but I handle IT quite well 😀

I know it’s the most or almost the heviest bike in 125ccs and it’s Perfect for my weight 70kg 😀 it’s so stable on the road, even due the weight the acceleration it’s very surprising 😀

[Author]

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