Darius
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Based on your reply
- Both coils are GOOD, but almost at service limit. Keep them. Saved a bit of money for now there…. Upgrade whenever you feel like it it or if it goes beyond 16.1K with its OEM cap attached.
- Upgrade to NGK caps at your own leisure, that should help even more and your resistance goes down a lot (easier to light up them plugs)
I hope you learned something, you will be your own wizard soon!
Thank you Marcel , definitely great lesson,
So what are next suggestions? I have fitted new plugs , coils are good , caps as well , but still cold start issues, and stalling when hot 😣, I’m kind of hoping you are not going to say carby removal and clean up but something is telling me we are going that way.
thanks again
best regards
Well done , you’re getting there. 👍 So i will break down the plugs in simplest terms so you know what to expect (Get a fresh set of CR8E x 4 of them) part of this process is unfortunately called “Plug Chopping” , gotta go through a set of plugs until she is happy, as old plugs wane fast and dont behave the same if they dont work well (“Fouled up”) . Your plugs:
- “Dark Black Ring” = Rich Idling / Low air / Dodgy mixture (i hope not) / Pilot Jets too big / Ignition Coil + HT Cap (easy fix) / Choke used during startup or while riding etc… (choke enriches the carb) _________ Ideal colour = English brown tree trunk / Milk Chocolate / Brown Leather Boots = I know, but best way i can describe a ideal shades of brown or “Tanned Grey with Brown Tinge” ==> Means starts should generally be easy in icy days or not even needing a choke. _________
- “White Pure Center” = Main Jets Blocked / Slide Needle is wrongly put to the lean setting / Air Leak at high revs / Low fuel flow at high revs / Main Jets too smll / ______ Ideal Colour = As above ^ . White is never a good sign because it would mean there is very little fuel at while riding and bike is going to overheat faster , the oil in the bike breaks down hard (sooty black oil much sooner) , plug breaks down , holes in piston may burn one day , compression loss due to piston rings cooking in extra heat, and so on, i believe you will get the gist of where we are going with this. We would rather a dark center than a white one , at least “slightly” rich MAIN JETS or SLIDES means high speeds help the bike cool a tiny bit on each intake cycle , as petrol has a tiny cooling effect (tiny) (Another reason GTR bikes for Hyosungs have bigger jets at rear than the front due to the fact, it gets less air flow to it hiding under the plastics , plus the front engine is in the way , just how v-twins are.)
I hope this made any sense ? Let us know your test for electronic sparking coils later on, take your time, it’s a stormy week anyways.
hello again ,
weather looked not to bad today so I have managed to do some measuring for you please see attached photos ,
Front cap ,
rear cap
both coils shown 0.6
hope I did this right ,
thank you again for all of your assistance
Hello ,
Thank you again for your great help ,
I have started today with 25miles ride and as much bike had easier start today but in exchange I had few times problem during red light stops where bike decided to stall after few seconds of idling😣
on return first I have checked voltage , idle it was showing 13,8 , 2000 rpm 14,2 , 5000rpm 14,7/14,8. , after that I took the plugs out ( pictures attached) looks on lean side which potentially could explain why bike decided to stall on stops , I have took pictures for your inspection of current ignition coils , however I’ll do proper testings tomorrow as it has gone dark and I could not see a thing (baby steps) ,
front cylinder
rear cylinder
I can not explain how grateful I’m with you sharing your knowledge and experience on these bikes.much appreciated
Hi everyone, I have just bought 2016 hyosung GV125 Classic 2016 , I have done full service, new oil , filters , plugs etc , and what issue I have is basically difficulty to start up when cold , it will take up to 30seconds before it will start , as soon bike is warm it starts straight away, have you got any suggestions what else I could check or adjust?
Welcome and to your friend on here too lol. Okay, how about this?
- When was the last time the carb even had an ultrasonic clean? (a very big deal)
- Valve Clearances? (Loose valves make it hard to start cold, heat tends to narrow gaps , hence easier starts, but power will be lacking in general , so either, get some proof the valves were done in the last 4,000 miles as per Korea’s rules, it is a lot of valves for a 125 after all 😬
- What fuel do you use ? E10 , E5 Super ? which stations ?
- Have you ever had the airbox off ? (We have 2x tutorials for that in the tutorial section) (Bad “o-rings” under the manifolds , make it quite annoying to start , however engine can reach 100c degrees, eventually the orings will cake and need replacing, since it will allow particles and dirt to mess up the air system and the carb since they are upside down sending air down the engine with atomized fuel for plugs to spark properly)
- Owner messed with the jetting or carb mixtures?
- Replaced the plugs ? – Be ready to replace them again with another set of normnal CR8E (only that size please) – If the air system or carb system ain’t right, the plugs foul easily (you’re welcome to post plug colours on here to see how well it is doing)
It’s a lot to ask I know, but don’t rush, i will have a proper answer based on data you gave us. Assumptions could mean false diagnosis (i said this, when it was actually something else etc) , so I want to be as accurate as i can 😉 , considering i fix these bikes all the time.
hello , thank you for your response,
I must admit I have very little knowledge of what has happened to my bike before I have purchased it , basically old man passed his full license and he kept this on I a garage for 5 years,
If we are talking carbs , and valves I have very little knowledge of how to adjust / clean if necessary ( new to motorcycles world) however there are no lack of power while bike is running, idling approximately steady 1400rpm no issues with revs , acceleration etc , alternator works perfectly fine with 14,3 output, I have fitted new battery, new air filter ( carbs looked clean ) when I looked when filter was removed however I did not inspect -rings ( lack of experience and I will re check again ) im using currently E5 shell petrol , and I have added liqui Moly fuel system cleaner , as bike was not used for a long while , before first start up I have drained old petrol and replaced with new , when I bought this bike plugs inside were CR7HS but I have replaced them back to NGK CR8E spark was strong after installation ( checked before putting them in ) old plugs were black and I’m attaching pictures, bike seemed to run rich at the beginning due to stron petrol smell from exhaust but after replacement it has gone a lot better,
thank you for your recommendation and suggestions it is much appreciated, shame you are far away from Stockport as I probably would pop in to you and let you do full in depth inspection.
Hey Darius. I’m pretty sure it’s the same Darius that did his CBT at Buxton today? It’s Anton, they kept me until 5pm but I got through it ok. I take it that you and Dimitri (?) were done and dusted before I got back. I have to admit, that was more full on than I expected, I was cabbaged by the time I got home 😂
hey Anton , yeah 👍 great spot 🙂 glad you have completed, I have gone for 80miles ride afterwards 😂 could not resist to take my GV in the road ( btw) problem with startup gone , looks like needed a good blast after long storage! Come on man ! Go for it and get one ☝️
