Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Yeh just visually. Fairing are buying repair so cheaper to convert than find some decent fairings. I have an old GTR loom as the original was butchered. Pretty sure the forks have the holes for the upper headlight bracken you linked me to. So it’s just a case of the headlight bracket, dash holder, front lamp and a custom make a headlamp loom from the old loom i have? If so I might make a few purchases from you 👍
Just be going cosmetics for now and see how the bars etc feel. Had the thing 12 month (bought as a none running project) and not got it back on the road yet! Decent weather has given me a kick up the arse to getting it sorted and an MOT 😁
Thanks for the reply Tom. Just got so disheartened with it. Sort 1 thing and another fault pops up. I started at the end and worked back. By shorting the starter Relay i know the wire to the starter and the starter it’s self are ok. Bought a multi meter to test wiring. Followed the wiring from the switch into the main loom. Where i found a connector just above the front cylinder. Directly in the area most likely to get wet 😮😟 it wouldn’t budge. Managed to separate it and it’s full of dirt and salt etc and all pins are green and 1 corroded away. So due to the state of the wiring i’m thinking a new loom is the way to go. As i could replace the connectors but could have further issues down the road if the wiring compromised. Plus new loom is less messing about and rules out that side of it aswell as the side stand switch (which has been bypassed) Which narrows it down to either the loom or R/H switch. I do have a spare engine with neutral sensor etc i can swap over to.
I don’t want to get rid as it’s my first road bike. Just so annoying fault after fault after fault. Suppose once i’ve replaced everything i should be trouble free riding for a while 🤣🤣
Thanks Again Tom 👍
Aint got a clue what i need to check as electrics aint my strong point. Think i’m gunna cut my loses and get rid of it. Can’t afford to spend any more on it and i know for a fact i’m gunna lose money as it is.
Thanks for commenting Tom. Just frustrating i’ve come this far and now it wont start 😖 I’m Pretty sure its a wiring issue. Indicators and pass light wouldn’t work but when i jiggled the wires they worked. Looks like it’s time to check all plugs and wiring again. Both fuses on the bike are ok to. So i’m guessing it’s from the switch to the starter relay that theres a problem. Getting a multimeter tomorrow to start checking continuity between wires. Luckily i’m off work monday so can have a look without the kids being around.
Thanks for your help. I did the above and got the airbox back on and got the bike started with no air leaks either 😁 Just need a new airbox now 👍
Bit of an update. I sourced a used working engine so i could moving with this. I still have the old engine so can get it all rebuilt. The oil pump failed causing a lot of damage. I will at some point get it stripped and rebuilt. Whilst the engine was out i stripped off the tape off the wiring loom, checked, cleaned and retaped the wiring loom. I removed any rusted/ siezed bolts from the frame and gave it all a general clean up.
When the working engine arrived i cleaned that as best as possible and fitted new stainless steel exhaust studs as the old studs were rusted and bent.
I fitted the engine and replaced the old vacuum lines, fuel lines, filter and removed the EGR System and fitted an EGR Blank all bought from Marcel. And fitted a new Yuasa Battery.
It’s currently running but i need to fit a new airbox as i damaged the old one when removing it 😖 and it has a fault when starting but i’m getting somewhere 👍
I pulled the airbox off the carbs (breaking the airbox at the retaining screws) so it came off with the 2 small rubber sealing rings still attached to the airbox not the carbs. So do i attach the seals to the top of the carbs and secure with the clip attached then just push the airbox onto the carb with a bit of lube and the seals should pop in?
Or pop the seals into the airbox then push it all onto the carbs and tighten the clip up?
I’m probably making this more hard work that it needs to be 😖
Can you get some pictures of your situation if possible, so we can see where you are stuck exactly , as it should go in the same way you took it out. However, i would caution not to stress the manifolds, korea doesn’t make em any more and be ready to fork out ££££££s just to even get a decent half -cracked up one .
Mar 20, 2022 at 6:57 PM in reply to: [How to Tutorial] Change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram) #7090So we replace the 1 pipe from pump at back to inlet. And then 1 from the fuel tank to the other inlet? Is it that simple?
And EGR Delete is fit EGR blanks and clamp off ALL Pipes that go the the EGR and remove it?
Hoping to do the above to mine this wk
Slight update. The engine is now out of the frame. I think i know why this bikes engines in a rough state. The entire bike doesn’t look like it been looked after. The amount of sized, rusted, missing and mis matched screws/ bolts is unreal. Seems everything is standard regard coils, leads etc. Carbs are still on as they didn’t look the easiest to remove in situ due to everything being rusted in. It could end up a bit of a money pit


- At the moment i’ve not really got any further apart from taken 1 plug out. Bit tight for space in the garage so can oy really work on it/ have a look when weather is decent and it’s light so time wise i’m limited. A lad i know thru a fishing club his dad has his own shop and runs a MX team so i’ve asked him for a rough cost just to have a look at it. I don’t trust myself stripping an engine/ gearbox.
- Time wise not really in a rush. I was getting this up and running to take my CBT on. Ideally ready for summer but not too fussed.
Just out of interest does anybody know what the rough price for an engine/ gearbox rebuild is?🤔
Soooo i just drained the oill…….



😖😪😭

Castrol = Change it after 500 miles. I really do hate that brand and with hyosungs Motul Ester or Silkolene Ester is a must and use them 2 forever. Open the 125 , you will come to realize its the only one that has so many bearings, cams, valves, moving parts inside compared to a primitive 125 such as a CG125 that probs will run castrol oil forever without giving a care in the world
It’s only to use whilst i change the clutch and get it up and running. Then will be changing it again along with the brake fluid. Weather should be decent enough this week end to get the clutch apart and check it all over 👍
Getting some oil to replace what i take drain when i remove the clutch this wk end (weather permitting) would this Castrol oil be ok to use for now? (Cheap and i can get it tomorrow rather than waiting) will upgrade oil if/ when it’s running

I have the chain for bike it’s just not on as owner took it off to deter bike thieves. It worked as they left this and stole his other Hyosung 125 and burnt it out 😪
Thanks for all your help so far. Very much appreciated.
I didn’t check the clutch and clutch basket 1st 😕 I charged the battery and checked if it cranked over. That’s as far as i have gone so far.
Neutral light is on but no chain on the bike to check if it moves freely in gear. Also gear lever peg is broken off (how it was when i picked it up)
It does have a side kick stand with complete wiring so not bypassed.
It does have a clutch switch and it’s not been bypassed.
Not checked for spark yet. Is it best to remove clutch cover and check in there first? Mainly as i couldn’t see how a clutch fault can cause it to cut out and not start but i can remove and check later this wk.
shall do just that when i get to the point of refitting fairings. Which hopefully should be soon if i can get the bike running.
Slight update i have had the bike turning over. I was told by the previous owner it’s the clutch that was the problem to it cutting out and not starting. But have no clue as to why this could be? Not tested for fuel or a spark yet which is the nx thing to check when i can. Which is hard with work and 2 kids under 6 😕First thing i did was search clutch replacement which sent me here 👍
It’s in decent condition a good clean, rust removal and paint will sort a fair bit of it out. Hopefully going to have a look at repairing what gairings i can. Working for a Bodyshop consumables i should be able to get most of what i need inc Paint 😏. Already looking at a nice Ferarri Metallic Black with a bit of a Lamborghini Yellow to offset it. Looking for a fairing screw set if anybody knows where i can get one from??🤔
-
AuthorPosts