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That thing is called the fake emissions. You can bypass this by BLOCKING pipes that FEED it.
1 goes to airbox unit
1 goes to engine cylinder
1 slim pipe from the intake manifold
^ those 3 above = stick a metal bung or bolt and clamp it hard. EGR bypassed. The engine won’t even miss it.
Now we have less chaotic pipeline to work with 😉
The 2 gold bolts come out, lift the fuel tank , and stick a prop or stick that holds the tank temporarily! (use caution as its weighty)
Now you can just about see the pipes going to the “frame mounted” ON/OFF tap.
Put the tap to OFF. And disconnect the TANK (& block the tank with a temporary bung/bolt.
Put the tank aside elsewhere.
Now you should have a clearer vision of the AIRBOX. Don’t rush to attempt to dissamble it, even myself still have to fight with GV125s , if i don’t drop the engines to the floor. Other lads also mention being slow and sideways in to the way you do things. Check this post out below, there was a discussion about a while back.
I’ve heard in the past the owners left the box connected and just undid the carb bowls while sat on engine , even diaphragm covers on the other side, while trying to swap jets and using small compressed air to blow the carb through, never tried it myself personally.
I just know the manual says to take the carbs off completely off bike and then use air blast or other carb cleaners. I know the intake manifolds will be very soft , so probably another reason i rarely mention to do things while carb is still attached to engine and airbox with only its undersides exposed lol.
Once we get past the tank and airbox coming out 1st, then you can follow the tutorials i made (here) and (here) , that show fuel line routing and air pipe routing. You have a manual tap, so you will be skipping some parts that don’t apply to you & 1 less pipe to worry about as GT bikes have more anyway , dare i say.
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