Reply To: Where are the IAP sensors? – 2016 GT250R
Cap Covers are okay with NGK leads, they are straight type, but NGK makes long and short , they all fit deep inside the plug holes, the important thing is making sure the OEM Dust Caps are over there, to stop even moisture air or water going in there , it will just fry things. Don’t worry the NGK caps rarely fail, so no need to test them especially when they are new.
Since the NGK Caps, it looks like your resistance is a little better ? 0.1 to 1.0 ohm between the Terminals of the coils is OEM spec, so that’s fine.
Do both coils spark when starting the bike? Put the plug against an unpainted part like a valve cover bolt, see if your sparks look yellow or blue (good)
Crazy as this sounds, disconnect all lights and try again,
From your video , when it runs, you have FI.0.FI.0.Fi. flashing when it runs, this means “Fuel Injection” system , so suspects will be the pump , or injectors or TPS ?
You should unplug ECU for a bit, unplug the battery , turn key ON, let the juices in the harness go away so the bike is zero volts everywhere i hope, then replug the ECU and battery back in, flick the kill switch red button a few times quick (3x quick usually) then count the sequences of the flashing red light
It could flash 10 times first , then 1 , 4 , 5 = Code 10-1-4-5 (it will repeat itself) or it will flash another code if multiple sensors need attention.
Crazy as this sounds too, if you are in an emergency , you could send me an email now if you wanted a 2009 SENTEC ECU + Harness + All kinds of parts + Fuel Pump (older model) x2 , then you could be up and running quick. I do have a video of the donor machine running, it’s too big for the forum, i can send it via email when i upload it to youtube or some Google Driver share link.
If you stay with your current ECU, start hunting down now for a spare ECU , just incase old one has bugs but i hope not!