Reply To: Hi from Australia
The tanks shape will not allow you to empty the tank completely through the filler hole. I kept FLUSHING with demineralized water, shaking it around, tipping it out & shaking tank up & down. Black pieces of metal were coming out. I didn’t get rid of them all. Tried to get them with a magnet but it’s a pain. Best way to empty tank is to remove the fuel level sender or the fuel pump & the fuel should dump easily. PROBLEM with that is trying to SEAL the tank again so it doesn’t leak. I DIDN’T want to risk it.
After shaking the water & metal bits out i sprayed WD40 inside the fuel tank. Works well. It makes MUCH of the last bit of water come out easier & anti-rusts at the same time. Shake the tank again with the WD40 or CRC then tip out. Repeat this process 4 times or more until the wetness in the tank is mostly WD40 not water. The last step was pouring UNLEADED FUEL into tank & shaking it, draining it & repeating the process until i was happy with the look & smell of the liquid coming out.
KEEP the TANK FULL of PETROL straight after FLUSH process & try to keep it that way always. Or the rust slowly comes back. Some people COAT the inside of tank with Nitrocellulose SURFACE PRIMER but it’s PAINTING & drying the inside of tank & spending more time & money. I didn’t want to. You don’t need to.
I didn’t use deisel fuel to FLUSH the tank, although it may seal surface better. Would need even more unleaded to flush that out. Wasteful.
I DIDN’T DRY the TANK. Just FLUSH with Demin. water, then WD40, then unleaded, is ok. My bike has been running nicely & removing the rust gives peace of mind. The big bits i couldn’t get out are too big to get passed the fuel filter or into my Carbies. I will probably do this process again to get them … one day
Keep pouring water & WD40 in until you’re happy with the amount of black bits you’ve removed. I hold the TANK, upside down, with my forearms on my legs, then i shake the tank & ROCK IT left & right at the same time. Keep doing it until your happy. Shake, shake shake, bro.
NOTE: REMOVE the FUEL TANK CAP completely with ALLEN KEY to allow more fluid to leave the tank more easily. If you leave the CAP on, it will get in the way & make the emptying process more messy & slower.
Car Battery, Jumper Leads, Battery Charger, Ph INCREASE, Demineralized Water, Steel Rod, Plastic Bottle Base, WD40, Unleaded Petrol.
Screw Steel Rod into bottom of Plastic Bottle. Connect CHARGER to power point & to battery. Fill tank with Deminerlaized Water. Add Ph-Increase to tank 250grams or more, (the amount doesn’t matter, the size of your battery determines the speed/performance of this process). Place Steel Rod into tank (tape it down if it moves). Connect POSITIVE Jumper Cable to the Steel Rod. Place NEGATIVE Jumper Cable onto the Fuel tank at the Bolt Hole (remove Rubber from bolt hole). I placed a rubber mat under tank for safety & a chopping board to RAISE the HEIGHT of TANK so there’s ROOM for Negative Lead. Place a Cardboard BOX under FRONT of TANK to LIFT IT UP & KEEP TANK LEVEL. Turn ON the Battery CHARGER & look for small bubbles in the Solution – means it working. Let it run for 8+hours. 12 hours or more is better. CHECK IT OFTEN, as batteries can explode & things can get zapped if they mess the cables.
Steel Rod should be normal steel. A.I. told me to use Stainless Steel but i think it’s wrong. It’s NEVER DONE this job so what would it know? A big steel ALLEN KEY is good. If your rod has a THREAD you can make it fit Plastic Bottle tightly. DON’T use Galvanised Steel it will produce POISON GAS.
Charger Leads, Battery Jumper Leads. RED to ROD. BLACK to Tanks BACK.
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