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#20540
LaserBeam
👤 Member
  • Topics: 14
  • Replies: 105

That’s awesome news, that it fired up again after cleaning the kill switch terminals. I found my bike wants the idle screw turned up a bit, to start. Once the bike is warm, it starts revving too high, so i have to turn the idle screw down a bit. I try to set it so that the bike idles at 1400 RPM when warm. If i let it idle at 1500+RPM the bike won’t go into NEUTRAL at the traffic lights – i get annoyed holding the clutch in that long. When the REVS are lower i don’t have gear change issues.

Your battery voltage drop is a bit odd. Does that happen when the bike is just sitting there & not running (ignition OFF)? Or does it only drain when bike is running? Something is drawing power that shouldn’t be or the stator coil is NOT charging? Marcel & the guys here are more knowlegable when it comes to electrical issues. Look at the wiring harness & check for any splits or breaks in the insulation. Any exposed wires? Clean the bikes EARTH for the NEGATIVE side of the battery & check there is nothing else interfering with the current or drawing it elsewhere. I wonder if another switch is faulty & constantly drawing power. i don’t know bro, somone here will have experienced this.

As for the the GEAR SHIFT Assembley, what bit are you having trouble with? They can be annoying. What i do is UNSCREW the ROD, then mount the LEVER & the LINKAGE to the bike. Leave the ROD CONNECTED to ONE LINKAGE & let the other end of the ROD hang free. Then you undo the connected end a little bit (to give some room on the thread for adjustment & tightening). Then screw the disconnected end of the rod into place. As you screw this END IN, the other END will UNDO itself. So you need some room on the trhead to allow that to happen without the rod disconnecting and falling down. If the LEVER or the LINKAGE won’t go ON, you can seperate the parts a bit with a small flathead screwdriver. I RAISED my FOOTPEGS which gives me more ground clearance but i had to buy a LONGER ROD. I got the longer rod from a bike wrrecker and it’s not from a Hyosung but works fine. If you raise pegs and DON’T put in a longer rod, the gearshift lever will sit really high & makes it painful to operate. Note that raising the pegs makes my right heel touch the exhaust pipe, just before the muffler. So i have to be on my toes a bit. Ask Marcel & the guys about the battery drain if they don’t reply here. The good news is you can ride. My bike is sitting there waiting for an O-Ring for the rear hub & it waits for the new chain to go on that. I’ve not ridden for months. I start it every day, which sort of helps me & the bike likes that too. Don’t let the bike sit for too long without starting it. What colour is it btw? Mines Two-tone Silver & Black.

Hyosung Gear Shift Lever, Linkages & Rod:

 

 

-----LaserBeam---->