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#19099
♠️ M77
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  • Topics: 40
  • Replies: 3,033
  • Country: UK
  • Bike Model: GT

Sprag Clutch = Age , wear and tear ,  or premature damage  (if the last owner neglected the bike and was busy trying to start it 1000x a day, it could wear it down a lot faster)  but you won’t know until you remove it off the flywheel.

Idling =  Does it ever cut out when idling hot even at 1,100 rpm ?   If  not,  could you recheck your throttle body TPS  and possibly the lambda sensor using the service manual to match up any values within OEM spec ?

If we were to assume the basics ==> A carb bike that’s struggling to hold 1500 rpm would indicate blocked pilots  or poor floats  (EFI=  Fuel pump or injectors)
or else
the idle adjuster knob needs increasing to 1500 rpm when hot   (EFI= your ISCV unit should maintain idle when ride is not touching throttle tube but alas , EFI also means airbox sensors & throttle body sensors need checking too)
or else
We must check the entire ignition system both EFi & Carby  => coils, caps, stator and CDI  (EFi= ECU)
I believe you solved the ignition issues?
or else
If the rpm needle is going up and down in a sweeping fashion  (1200 – 1800rpm), this carb bike would suggest its hunting for fuel or plugs are wanning => Replace plugs or check float height  (For EFi = Fuel pump and injectors and/or ISCV unit + TPS)

At this point, you have done more progress with it , so you should be happy it’s not dying as much ?  We getting there.  Welcome to EFi world! Carby sounds easier doesn’t it ?   but EFI is more “snappy & responsive” on the throttle!