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#19019
♠️ M77
👑 Admin
  • Topics: 40
  • Replies: 3,033
  • Country: UK
  • Bike Model: GT

Starter Solenoid = It’s common, the 650 draws a lot from it to start, and eventually the internal parts of the solenoid refuse to lift up to trigger battery power down to the starter motor, hence click click but again ,  investigate the starter motor => remove it and connect it directly to battery and see if it spins healthy

Battery out of the bike and do it far away cause it can cause sparks touching the starter motor body  – Wear electric gloves and eye wear. believe me.

Then drain oil and be sure your sprag system is OK behind the flywheel   (sometimes if the sprag-clutch is on the way out, it causes more tax on the starter motor and the solenoid to spin the crank)

0.8 on yellow wires ice cold is fine on the stator  = It’s just charging purposes , has no effect on how much the bike can spark. It is the blue/green wires from the pulse sensor. That little black box alone can go haywire at any time causing a whole stator needing replacement again.    Keep in mind Delphi stators not backwards compatible, so hope your last owners made sure it was a pre-2010 stator.

Regulator =   Only voltage is needed , but if it is a genuine Shingden regulator, you shouldn’t worry too much about it  as long as it is above 13.6 – 14v to charge (even at idle) but max of 14.6v   (any higher will fry the EFi parts as ECU has very small micro chips in it)

Your picture = Early EFi model  (2008-2010 range), you likely have a Mitsubishi ECU (Hence Mitsubishi coil too)  or DENKO Japan but either way it will say “made in Japan”   unless it says DAEWOO KOREA on it  (Daewoo Korea will be fine on that big Mitsubishi coil)