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#22035
♠️ M77
👑 Admin
  • Topics: 40
  • Replies: 3,035
  • Country: UK
  • Bike Model: GT

I hate to be the legend that upsets you but slowly , investigate the stator  (drain oil first) – I believe it would be a good idea to get a new good stator.

Also replace that regulator.  never trust a regulator that is not a real japan mosfet shingden on EFI bikes because there is too many sensors that depend on a very stable voltage.

Stator = I had a 3 customer bikes in the last few years where stators where the reason bikes did not cold start properly and i had to replace everything else on the bike,  i did not realize the stator was fault.
Bike 1 & Bike 2 = Wrong stator fitted.
Bike 3 = Pulse sensor went haywire.

A carb model will get away with a bad stator and bad regulator for a while (in limp mode) as it’s just only worried about a CDI unit.

So yeah, lets go to the stator and regulator unit.       Keep your old one for purely emergencies but i doubt you will even need to worry about it as a true mosfet shingden regulator will last years and years and years , I still have the same one my bigger GV EFi model.   Everyone knows getting a Daewoo ECU for the GV650/GV250 is like going to war!  No gold to be found for 99% of the earth.   The regulator was needed to be upgraded even with an inline fuse to avoid electrical spikes to it.

Bike wont start without a stator anyways , it’s the 1st object the bike looks for before triggering anything else.    If it starts when warm , but refuses after its cold , check how much battery has drained   (if 12.9V in the morning  ,   then check overnight  how much voltage was lost)

Get your mechanic to do a “LOAD” test  on the battery too using a special Yuasa Analyzer  (usually mechanics or garages keep this)

& yes , Hyosungs have a character of their own! Must be a Korean thing!