#1650
♠️ MARCEL
Administrator
  • Topics: 38
  • Replies: 387
Joined:
Nov 30, 2017
@mf448kxn6
North UK
GTR
Points: 4,373

Hey, tell you what…

  1. Grab a multi meter -> switch to DC 12V (Volts)
  2.  “Bike Off” = battery should be 12.8 (“minimum”) 13v is good.
  3. “Bike On” = battery must NOT drop below 12.7 whatsoever
    (it won’t start on even 11.9v)

Then we know the battery is “HOLDING” charge regardless if you switch the lights off.

If the lights “DIMM” when when you switch them on even though bike isn’t starting = the battery has gone bad.    (the lights are a good example of how much power they draw)

When you press the starter button with a weak battery = you will hear loud clicks from the “starter motor solenoid”  or it won’t act at all.

Once we have solved the battery issue.

The solenoid immediately should spin the starter motor as soon as you touch the starter button. No delays about it.

If the bike cranks “slowly”  –  Investigate these 3 in order:  Dying solenoid (too common) ,  starter motor is dying out if its too old or too worn internally (a lot of uses in a short life of the bike) , and lastly the battery  (may be sending low current)  (weak amps through the wires)

Battery is  12AH/14AH   // 180-230 CCA (Cold Crank Amps) (this is starting juice)
Code is “14BS”   (eg.  VARTA 14BS)

Also a local garage should be able to “test” your battery for its internals  (not just volts) but wether it needs replacing overall (dead charging cells inside.)

I hope this info helps, but let us know how you get on pal!

// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

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