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Thanks for the youtube clip; I can see your confusion there…
- Did you already use a new rebuild kit ?
- Did you use new floats from us , as they are factory adjusted?
Oh that’s interesting, I wasn’t aware they were factory adjusted, yes i did use new needles and seats. I used the original floats at first, mostly to get a feel for how to adjust them (and this is more a learning project than a by the book thing anyhow) but I will swap in the new floats.
7mm = This is when the float is actually resting on the “needle” plunger (If you press down the float, it will drop to 4-5mm ish) The spring is just there to make sure bumps , shocks , etc doesn’t cause the float to ram the needle against the golden seat (well) 17mm is when the float is lifted up to the ceiling (as that would be how the carb is when it’s on the bike) , until the float bowls fill up with the float going down to 7mm to close the fuel delivery. (it will hover around that number as you ride as not to completely drain the carb in full throttle)
This is what I was thinking when I started but i didn’t adjust the floats so they may have been set wrong (and i was using the originals) when I first tried.
Then I asked earlier for some clarification and ended up gooseing it up completely with the hard touch thing that someone else said. I’m sure there are carbs that are set that way but obviously not the bds26.
In the video i set the height to 7mm soft touch and with the original floats. I reassembled it and managed to get it started but the rear cylinder was sending fuel out of the breather. I quickly changed the float and it’s now happier, with the original on the front cylinder and the new one on the rear. it actually idles rather nicely now, revs don’t hang and quite honestly i’d say it’s about where it needs to be but it still seems quite rich at idle. I’ll change the front float, it’s probably that which is still causing my grief.
Thanks for being so patient Marcel (and everyone too).